Zed Head

The're definitely more desirable to some people for supposed benefits. The topic rolls through often. If you look around the internet you'll find that the design of the stamped blades isn't even consistent. Some stamped steel blades might have actual engineering design efforts behind them, others might be just shaped to look right. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/55214-water-pump-options-and-where-to-get/

I think that the thinking is that the cast impellers and housing are shaped to avoid cavitation at high RPM. That there's a functional reason for the thick curved blades. Simply replacing them with stamped steel without redesigning the rest of the mechanism isn't sufficient to maintain function. Don't know if it's true but the race guys even spend a lot of time trying to find the diesel water pumps, which have cast impellers and a housing design that pushes more water. The diesel pump design kind of adds weight to the argument that the pumps are not as simple as they seem.

The turbo ECU uses Pin 5 I think. But still, it kind of points to no spark, and that could be due to a bad power transistor. That's with a the 1981-1983 280ZX turbo cars. As S30Driver implies though, you might have a completely different car. Add details.

Factory specs are 248 and .413". 230 and .488" are odd numbers. Lower duration, with a mild increase in lift. Something's not right there. MSA's weakest performance cam has bigger numbers, and many say that Stage 1 isn't worth the work. Most people say to go bigger than you'd think, the Z engines like it. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/10-2001 Browse through the specs. and descriptions of their selection - type "performance camshaft stage" in to their search box. Their cookies function won't allow a page of search items to be copied over. Their loss.

The nose of the diff lifts during acceleration then drops down when throttle is let off. The knock could be the metal on the front of the mount coming down on the cross member. If you look closely you'll see that the gap there is pretty small. There's actually a specification for the space between the top and bottom metal plates of the diff mount. Might be worthwhile to remove it and measure. You can also take a large screwdriver and pry the two plates apart while it's out to see how weak it is. You might find that it's about to fall apart. Picture from 1976, it's clearer.

Joseph from TheZstore was just on the site. Let him know. Odd that they don't show the impeller blades when it's fairly well-known that people don't like them. Needs fixing. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/16-7021 @Joseph@TheZStore

This looks like it - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/125626-trailer-experiences/

There was a whole long conversation on Hybridz about strapping the car down after getting it on the trailer. Apparently it can be difficult to get it tied down to where it won't move, since there's no frame rails to hook to. Also come good comments on placing the car so that the trailer is nose-heavy. Weight on the hitch point makes it more stable. I would think nose first. The car's about equally balanced nose to back anyway. I can't recall seeing any cars trailered backward although I'm sure t's been done. I've wondered if you could get a Z inside a box truck. Build some ramps and drive it up and in.

Hey Mike, I very subtly suggested a short while ago that somebody keep their opinions about China to themselves and not troll the forum for xenophobia and I got an Abusive Behavior warning. HS30 calls Blue and grannyknot "dimwits" directly and that's not abusive. That's where the bias charge comes from. You have subconscious favorites. Dimwits is still there. It's another name for stupid or dumb, in case it's not clear. I think that HS30 gets on the forum just to be an arrogant a s s (that's American for arse). All of the bad in this thread started from his name-calling. There's your problem. Be consistent.

A momentary switch on the stater solenoid wire would be a good theft deterrent. Hold it, start the engine, let it go. No hold, no engine turn.

I see. Some of the Rockauto pictures seem to be true to the part, where you can see the offset. Here's the Prior brand image. Out of Stock, of course. Edit - one more picture.

Does HS30 own #13? What's funny here is that these conversations will probably become part of the car's provenance. Might be degrading the value of his own car,and maybe even the value of all early Datsuns. The type of owner affects the perception of the car. Porsche owners are different from BMW owners are different from Range Rover owners. Some interesting unintended consequences. #13? Don't want it, it was owned by that guy on classiczcars.com.

It actually does look like it could be essentially a nice collection of rare and interesting parts. The engine has some history behind it. Good old Wikipedia - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_S20_engine Has some similarities to cars like the Super Bird. Racing rules drove the factories to make some unique vehicles, so there's the racing history behind the car also. People who race cars generally have lots of extra money. Partially explains the high value. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plymouth_Superbird Derek's making a more modern head for the L series. Cheaper than a Z432. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/119641-twin-cam-head-for-the-l6-from-derek-at-datsunworks/

Mike deletes a lot of my stuff also. I'm not sure he really sees or has an opinion on the issues, I think he just sees the personalities. Blue and HS30-H have favored status. And it is Mike's site, so free speech isn't even an issue for discussion. Mike can do what he wants with it.

Deleted. I think I was on-point but it's already established knowledge. Mike should have stepped in at "dimwit". We have a new Tony D in our midst. Thanks for the "like" grannyknot. Best to just move on with the light sarcasm and easy discussion this thread was meant to foment. If HS30 gets his bloomers in a wad that's his problem.

Value is in the eye of the beholder. The only reason to call somebody a dimwit, implying that you are smarter than they are, is because you are insecure about your own opinions. Instead of arguing the point, you make an ad hominem attack on the person. It's a form of weakness, in mind and personality. Explain why the car is more valuable to you, and leave the personal comments out. Show some knowledge instead of pretending that you know something. Show us that you're actually an intellectual and not a pretender. It's easy for people who really know what they believe, difficult for people who just want to feel superior. And for you Mike, this not abusive behavior. I know you like to please the guys who actually own "classics" but you'll end up with a 5 person club if you're not careful. Not a lot of sell-through from those guys either, they probably don't shop on the internet.

Seems like it's time for somebody to develop the "power brake booster upgrade". Find a booster with the firewall bolt pattern and rubber seal diameter and the rest can probably be made to work. The MC could be the one that came with the booster, the hard lines would probably fit. Diameter might be off but might not be that noticeable. The attachment to the pedal might just be a clevis swap. Who knows. Seems like many people are getting the wrong bolt pattern or damaged parts anyway. I picked an example but it might not be the best, only Cardone makes a rebuilt on Rockauto. But the right chose could probably have wrecking yards full of cheap replacements. The MC is a bit odd looking too.

Saw your thread on zcar.com. The BCDD was suggested there also. But you never followed up on THE possible solution. You might have to address it if you want to solve your problem.

My "friend" in the past has been a broken shovel handle. Loosen the bleeder, press the pedal down and wedge the handle against the seat back, tighten the bleeder, let the pedal back up. Seems to work.

You could measure combustion chamber volume. It's easier than it seems, the hardest part is finding something that is graduated in cc's (Edit - actually, you can always convert any volume to cc's., So any fairly accurate liquid measuring device will work). For what you're doing you don't really need 1/10 cc'.s, 1/2's will work.

Which books? How do you know it needs a rebore? Have you checked the parts against the specs. in the FSM? There are different versions of the E88 head, Probably best to know exactly what you're working with before paying for machine work. You might decide to buy different parts.

I have to test it to failure again. Maybe even put those original transistors back in. The first time it just dropped dead within two miles then restarted a few times, enough to get closer to home. Then was totally dead. Pretty sure that I tested it again before swapping the transistors. I'm usually pretty thorough. Some day I'll just put it in the car and go hoon around in the farmlands.

They're about a zero tolerance fit. So, yes, paint in the hole would be a problem. But they should slide in, no pounding necessary.

Somebody on this site has described a way to adjust the quill from the top. I think it might have been CO. Used some sort of rubber band assembly to hold the quill up from below, then just pushed it down against the rubber with a pair of long-nose pliers off of the gear and turned it to and fro util it came up in the right spot. The short answer is - re-insert and check, with the timing pointer on zero, and the #1 piston at TDC. Best to get everything set correctly, even the cam sprocket. You could also logic it out, knowing that the distributor turns counterclockwise.

I picked up some replacements at Fry's Electronics. I used this cross-reference site to choose NTE247's. Somebody on zcar.com suggested it. 2SD411 here - http://www.nteinc.com/ http://nte01.nteinc.com/nte\NTExRefSemiProd.nsf/$all/1C29450DD0509A6185257910007F08CE?OpenDocument I think I tried the wiggling and banging when I got the car home but it was completely dead. The original ECU didn't have any problems, nor several spares I tried afterward. The cable-end connector seems fine. It was all ECU. Later I put the new transistors in and it started right up. I drove it around the block, took out the ECU and put it on the shelf. Too scary, didn't really trust the solution.. Maybe I'll put the ECU back in and see what happens. Out in the country, where the car can die in a spot I can work on it.