Zed Head

The EFI FPR's work by bleeding off excess pressure. So without a return line there's no control mechanism, no where for the excess pressure to go. Could be that an FPR before the rail with no return line is actually not doing anything at all. Max fuel pressure is probably determined by the pump's internal pressure relief. I'm not sure how other FPR's work, but that's the principle behind the EFI units. That's why if you block the return line the pressure rises to the pump's max. And the fumes have to be going somewhere. They probably just get purged away from the vent exit quickly if you don't smell them. Or you smoke. The purpose of the charcoal canister is to store them until they can be sucked in to the engine. For the environment.

I didn't read the article I just worked from the basics. If you measure on a low pressure day, you'll get a different reading than on a high pressure day. If you want to work with a voltage or resistance, without converting to pressure you can do that. Your assumptions are complicating things, along with unclear thinking. What's the set-point of your "switch", for example. If you haven't done your measurements yet then you shouldn't be making decisions about where you'll get the air. That's how good science works - set up your experiment from sound principles, use good equipment, take your measurements, and draw conclusions. You've already decided that the engine bay is "bad" without knowing anything. That's bad science. but it makes a ton of money for K&N.

The "CAI" thing is a market mainly produced by K&N. To go along with their filters that let more dirt in. Those guys have made their millions selling things that probably do more damage than good. Most cars already have a remote entrance for air. Once the car is moving the air in the engine bay is replaced. With cool outside air. But, you can get MAP sensors from places like DIYAUtotune. You'd want two, one to measure a reference point and one to measure the new location. Just like the O2 sensor, you need software to process the signal. https://www.diyautotune.com/shop/sensors-data-logging/temperature-and-pressure-sensors/

The bushing choices are personal, I think. It's really hard to compare road quality. I probably drove on at least three different types of road just today. They have new quiet pavement, that is smooth, old large stone filled concrete that's worn (very noisy), oiled gravel which is more noisy than new concrete. And the recent snowstorms here have created 100's of small and large potholes. The local highway that I use often has a definite transition from one type of pavement to another, where my opinion of my sound system quality goes from "sounds great, good enough" to "I need more watts, can't hear anything". There's a whole thread here somewhere where we argue about which steering coupler to use. It's that fine of a distinction.

Have you thought the struts/shocks? And ride height? My car had the original strut/shock mechanistic, still full of old fish oil. There are good inexpensive replacements out there.

Looks like they changed mid build year 1975, and again in 1976. Double check though. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/body-260z-280z/2-seater/door-panel-glass-hinge http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/body-240z/door-panel-glass-hinge

Don't ruin it for me. I just have to get to the Goodwill to buy a VHS machine then find a copy of the movie.

I had to search it myself. You made the big time. Now we're going to have a bunch of old movie fans joining the site. Mike should thank you.

Actually, in a Z car, the frame and body are essentially the same thing. There are "sub-frame" components, that look like a typical frame but are actually welded or bolted directly to the body. On a typical frame-based car the body is sitting on rubber bushings on top of the frame. If you just confirm that what Nissan installed is intact you'll probably be fine. Many of the ground circuits are redundant. The engine is grounded to the battery through the negative battery cable but there are other ground wires, probably to ensure that paint, gaskets, or thread sealer aren't interrupting a circuit. You can check ground circuits using a test light or a meter. A meter will give you more information.

Are you going to coat the inside with Glyptal like some people do?

If a person who lives in Florida travels to New York City will they start receiving ads and/or mail about New York City.

I subconsciously realized a future error was coming so put that in to divert from my "get out humor" typo...

Me thinks jfa is on to something. CZCC has the FMS's now too (we all keep forgetting). http://www.classiczcars.com/files/ atlanticz has some stuff - http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electrical.htm Insert obligatory comment about how today's tiny-screened super-phones do not really improve quality of internet experience. ____________________________ Sorry potholez but we have to get out humor where we find it.

Those wires should be fairly easy to figure out with the wring diagram. The connector shapes are generally shown, with wire colors. And the picture of a relay doesn't show the connector shape or the wire colors, you should take a better one. And there are numbers on the relays, you should post those or search them on the internet. Plus you should determine location of the connectors, using other clues. Like the thick white wire with the round rubber cap on it (probably covering a ring connector - take a better picture) probably goes to the alternator or the back of the ammeter (not familiar with the back of a 72 ammeter myself). Once you start locking a few connections down it narrows the possibilities for the other wires due to distance. A short piece of wire can only be connected to something within a short distance. Determine what you know, and share it, and the unknown will be easier to figure out.

Somebody broke the glass on my Pathfinder mirror (with internal heater) years ago and I found that Nissan sold a stick-on replacement. It came with adhesive on the back. Cleaned off the chipped up glass on the old mirror, peeled off the backing paper, and stuck it on. Takes a few seconds longer to defrost and sticks out a bit farther, but it was cheap and easy. Seems like somebody out there could cut some thin mirrored glass to shape and you could stick it on somehow, if the glass base is still somewhat intact.

I think that started design life as the heating block for the AAR, in the early 280Z's. But it looks like Nissan added some function with that vacuum switch.

My past problem only happened after the engine got warm. Apparently there was enough clearance for the blade to close until things got hot. Took me quite a while, messing with springs and poking at the linkage while it was cold (because working on a hot engine in the summer heat sucks), to realize that it was a hot engine problem, that had nothing to do with controls that should be affected by heat. Just wanted to repeat that. Finding repeatable problem conditions can be hard but finding them makes the solution easier. Beside that, working on the BCDD is a pain, from the FSM description. You're supposed to get the car up on blocks and run the car in gear and measure things. Better to have a friend ride in the engine bay.

You should give a little more information about your car than "Z". Apparently it's a 280Z since it has injectors. The noise is called "front-fire" or intake popping among other labels and it is pretty common with the 280Z's. Not clear why but the EFI system runs lean in some cases. The best fix that many of us have used is to cause the system to add a little extra fuel across the air flow range, using extra resistance on the coolant temperature circuit. Atlanticz has a great description. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html BUT. This is a fix for after you've confirmed proper fuel pressure, and ignition timing, and valve lash, etc. I'd give it a very thorough tune-up first.

It's not usually necessary to adjust the BCDD. Just saying. Here's one last thing to check before you get in to that. You said the dashpot seems slow. I'd mark where the dashpot is set now and screw it back out to where it has little effect. If the BCDD is bad, the problem will still be there. If not, the problem will go away and you might have a new one. The dashpots I've had have been creaky and slow and worn and sticky. They did need adjustment.

It's in the Excellent range - https://www.hagerty.com/apps/valuationtools/1970-datsun-240z

Here's another but the guy doesn't know what he wants for it - https://bend.craigslist.org/cto/5957114887.html

Here's the Oregon listing. Corvallis. Don't know why he skipped over Portland. Edit - actually he might be close to Portland and just went north and south. I think I've heard of a car like this in Newberg. https://corvallis.craigslist.org/cto/5961147455.html

Doesn't look terrible. Price seems close to right. https://salem.craigslist.org/cto/5957162867.html

Those are u-joint half-shafts. You'll have all of the parts you need to swap the R200 in, without extensive work. Your 240Z half-shafts will work, if you are buying the parts separately. Although a spare set of half-shafts isn't a bad idea. Get a zerk fitting and regrease the u-joints before installing, if they have the caps over the zerk holes. I think that you might want the diff mount also, just leave it bolted to the diff. Although it's probably rotten.

CV axles didn't show until about the 1980 280ZX. Maybe 81. Got pictures? Not clear what you're working with. If you meant 280ZX 2+2 then you could do a hub axle swap. The 240Z and 280ZX used the same spline count axle and size at the hub. There are writeups out there. BUT. The 280ZX doesn't use a mustache bar. So, back to not clear what you're working with.