Zed Head

I see a lot of "correct"s and "good"s and questions that should be clear if you were in the right place of the FSM or Guide for testing. The only numbers you've shown are a couple of RPM values. The AFM resistance values are in the FSM. Easy to measure, even from the ECU connector. The way the FSM is set up is that if the continuity/no continuity super-quick tests don't find a problem then you go to the more time-consuming tests of actually getting resistance numbers. This thread is starting just like about 20 others over the last few years. No offense, everybody tries to find the quick "bad part" solution. Post as many numbers as you can measure, and include the AFM and ECU part numbers. Two kind of hidden ways to run really rich are a hole in the FPR diaphragm or a bad ECU. A bad ignition module can also send too many pulses to the ECU while failing. Usually that will also show up on the tachometer with funky needle movement. And, to make things possibly worse, if it ran bad when you got it then the PO probably messed with things to try to fix it. A common mistake is to adjust the AFM vane position. You might have to go through and reset almost everything.

So, capacitor, broken wire, or bad crystal (Xtl) are the things to consider. Curious - do you save your videos in a high-res format? My ISP is supposed to be 4O Mbps but I get the spinning circle on some youtube videos, like yours. I think it's just crappy CenturyLink servers but who knows. It's funny how bad the internet still is even though the "speeds" are supposedly orders of magnitude faster than 54 KB. Which was the fastest phone modem speed for quite a while. Just checking. Low res might get them to play better.

What's an Xtl? I have a 78 clock in my 76 and the old non-working 76 on the shelf in the garage. I'll have to watch your videos.

I fixed the power supply on my computer by replacing a capacitor. They tend to leak brown goo at the top when they go bad, if I recall right. Used it as a reason to buy a nice Hakko FX-888 soldering iron. On sale at Fryes. Enough power to desolder and a digital temperature setting. Much better than the old wood burner I learned on.

What brand of gasket? Might be more important. Did you have the exhaust manifold resurfaced? They tend to corrode if they were leaking before. A good gasket and smooth, flat, clean surfaces will save you a lot of redo time.

Here's a web site that tracks collector values. They don't have any 1981 data for some reason but 1982 would be close. Notice the condition page too. An auction that is well-followed by Z and ZX people is BringATrailer.com Known as BAT. Link below. Might give you some ideas. https://www.hagerty.com/apps/valuationtools/1982-Datsun-280ZX?id=124375 https://www.hagerty.com/valuationtools/Classifications-and-Conditions https://bringatrailer.com/search/280zx/

Nissan has the diff removal process shown in the Rear Axle chapter. Kind of weird. Many of us have tried to remove specific parts like you're doing, but the way they show is actually the easiest and quickest. Drop the whole assembly as a unit. The mustache bar provides handlebars for stability. Once it's down you can remove the mustache bar to get the diff cover off. You're not going to get those studs out so that you can slide the cover down. You don't need to drop it to the ground either. You can lower it just enough to get the mustache bar off. For future reference.

Probably won't really know until you get the parts. Might end up as garage art. Or, maybe, the clips will center the joint well enough that you feel comfortable restaking from the outside. If the fit is an interference fit you might even run with no stakes and no clips. One of those things that you "know" is fine, calculations wise, but still makes you nervous. You already know that the original stakes weren't really that strong.

Whoever these guys are they seem to be collecting a lot of Z car parts. Not sure about their pricing model, but if you need something obscure they might have it. A few examples. https://maseraticompound.com/products/datsun-240z-oem-engine-cam-timing-chain https://maseraticompound.com/products/datsun-240z-seies-one-e-30-rebuilt-engine-block https://maseraticompound.com/products/datsun-240z-oem-engine-water-pump https://maseraticompound.com/products/datsun-240z-oem-engine-water-jacket https://maseraticompound.com/products/datsun-oem-280zx-complete-engine

The pictures look good. The "Profile 50% complete" message is meaningless, don't worry about it. Might take you a while to find the right buyer. $10K is on the high side. This site doesn't have a ton of ZX enthusiasts either. Good luck.

So you're going to assume that the inner dimensions of the yoke are accurately machined, and use the internal clips? Could work. Nissan might have found that staking saved clips and time on the manufacturing line. I hope that there wasn't a final machining step that they skipped also. One of my early bad car experiences was with u-joints. Mixing and matching caps and clamps on a GTO driveshaft. Got so used to the bad vibrations that I didn't realize my wheel was about to fall off. High school cruising days. Luckily I had a friend riding with me to chase the wheel down while I stayed with the car in the middle of the road. We got away with a ton back then.

Howdy Darlene. Welcome. For $10,000 some pictures would help. It's not a turbo ZX is it? That would help too. Good luck. I can check it out if somebody is interested.

Holy moly. I took another Google and ended up on RockFORD driveline, not Rockwell. And found this. You might be on to something. Check the other dimensions. Looks like four possibilities. Did you just brute-force past the stakes or do some grinding? http://old.rockforddriveline.com/ujointinside.htm

It rolls and has Ed Brock suspension, plus a Leaf Gard.. Looks like somebody could put it back together. Win. $1000.

Just remembered some funny fit business with CV axles, from the past. When I did a Google on it I found that it's actually gotten worse. Used to be just a specialty axle house, now it's Autozone.

Do the grooves match your yokes? Stalking...

Not to clutter but I thought this document was interesting. It mentions the crimping. I searched the number on the end of your u-joint. http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/78011.pdf

Found the kit. You can see the groove in his pictures. https://www.f150forum.com/f72/replacing-staked-u-joints-175529/ Who knows, maybe Nissan ground the flats on the inside of the yoke for an internal clip, but then staked it in. Can't tell what kind of clips the 43-010 uses.

They write like replacing a staked-in joint is a common thing. I have seen kits for other brands of cars, that come with a little grinding/cutting tool that cuts out the stake. But if I recall correctly the yokes for those kits had a groove already in place, that was used for a circlip afterward. Kind of like the manufacturer staked in a clipped u-joint for some reason. Cut out the stakes and use the old clips. Looks like a fun project anyway. http://www.theujointstore.com/43010.html

The tip breaks off at the base of the threads. The hard polyurethane on the back puts a bending force on the tip of the rod. It seems to fatigue it until it breaks. Mine moaned and groaned until finally it broke when I backed the wheel in to a curb while parking. If you install two PU bushings and then install the rod in its spot you'll find that it locates the rod very firmly in one position. Grab the other end and try to move it and you'll see how it loads the tip.

MSA has them for $299. With replaceable joints. They must have a shop that makes them up. I looked yesterday, it's on page 2 of the search results. From what I've read about replacements shafts some of them come without the dirt shield and leave the slip yoke exposed. Something to be aware of. Other issues besides just getting the old joints out and the new ones in, with either of the possible methods for keeping them in, are balancing. By the time it's a done, it's still just a part you can't see, that could end up causing vibration problems. Seems like a high risk-reward ratio to try it yourself.

Apparently they started staking in 1975. So a 74 or older shaft will have replaceable joints. The very early 1971 shafts, which are shorter, won't fit though. But if you want the really good Nissan high-precision u-joints, they're about $70 each.

They're meant to be permanent. "Staked" is the term to describe them. Some driveshaft shops will machine out the stakes and make a circlip groove, or replace the joint and and restake it. It's a bummer.

Not sure how he decides what's worth acquiring. Maybe condition. He has some odd ones. http://www.duncanimports.com/used/Nissan/1991-Nissan-Pathfinder-9e2c0f540a0e08bc6617fc39c18db72d.htm

A simple point that might help clarify - you already cut the bumpers off. So this is not a "restoration". Not to start an argument about what's proper, just pointing out that the word restoration is pretty well defined for car work. It means taking it back to its original from-the-factory condition. Resto-mod might be more correct for what you're doing. Refurbishment would sound right if it was a part. Doesn't feel right for a whole car. Anyway, the question is, as whee says, what are you intending the final product to be? Since it's not a restoration, you have a lot more leeway. Edit - some examples of descriptive labels might be show car, daily driver, street/track car, like that. Gives a feel for intentions.