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240DL? last won the day on February 15 2018

240DL? had the most liked content!

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About 240DL?

  • Rank
    Active Member


  • Map Location
    Chico Ca

My Z Cars

  • Zcars Owned
  • About My Cars
    It finally works

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  1. 240DL?

    The Z

  2. 240DL?

    280z spare parts

    The switch and thermostat housing are pending sale, everything else is still available.
  3. 240DL?

    280z spare parts

    I have some S30 parts from a parts box that I don't need anymore. 280z alternator(nearly new) - 30$ 280z external voltage regulator (even newer) - 10$ 280z thermostat housing with sensors - 30$ Sold S30 dash clock - 40$ S30 Temp and oil pressure guage - 30$ 280z charcoal canister - 20$ 280z light/turn signal combo switch - 80$ Sold 280z ECU A11-601-000 - 50$ To my knowledge everything works, all but the clock have been ran on my car but are no longer needed Parts located in 95926, Willing to ship for prices above + real shipping price
  4. 240DL?

    Runs rich, wont rev past 2-3k

    Ill start pulling injector plugs and see if it smooths out at all.
  5. 240DL?

    Runs rich, wont rev past 2-3k

    If I hear them all pulsing (individually) would that rule out stuck open injector? edit - Not mechanically damaged of course but stuck open because of the ECU
  6. 240DL?

    Runs rich, wont rev past 2-3k

    I do have the A11 600 000 for federal manual 1976 cars And my injectors are green, so I would guess they are correct
  7. 240DL?

    Runs rich, wont rev past 2-3k

    I'm gonna toss in a new set tomorrow, the ones in it are fouled out after the trip down the road. Ill pull them after idling for a bit and take a look. They are NGK BR6ES, on about my 5th set within the 40 miles I've put on the car
  8. 240DL?

    Runs rich, wont rev past 2-3k

    It has black soot until it dies from running rich, then wet and smelling of gas
  9. 240DL?

    Runs rich, wont rev past 2-3k

    Ill take some pictures of it, and get some part numbers on injectors just to make sure they arnt the turbo ones. I have the PCV system disconnected because of a vacuum leak at the timing cover that I am yet to correct. I have pulled the wire off the plug and thrown another in it to test and it had spark against the valve cover.
  10. 240DL?

    Runs rich, wont rev past 2-3k

    With a screw driver yes, they are defiantly pulsing as intended, not sure if its too much just by sound
  11. 240DL?

    Runs rich, wont rev past 2-3k

    I believe its correct, Ill have to get a timing light with an RPM readout to make sure. But it doesn't seem like it would be 1.5 times the reading like you mentioned before.
  12. 240DL?

    Runs rich, wont rev past 2-3k

    I just popped off the cap and rotor, the air gap seems to be .279mm (within spec), while looking at the FSM I see the 2 pickup type has a phase difference. While checking this I am told to remove the red wire from the "water temperate switch". My thermostat housing doesn't seem to have this Instead it has what I believe to be a colling fan switch from another Datsun?!? Another housing I have in a box might have the right one, but I have no idea where this red wire it should be connected to is... FOUND THE RED WIRE Does the "water temp switch" actually effect timing (1976 federal manual transmission car)
  13. 240DL?

    Runs rich, wont rev past 2-3k

    I'm reading the distributor section of the FSM now and will measure the air gap. If I cant find any problems there ill try running it till it dies then swapping ECU's and seeing if it starts again.
  14. 240DL?

    Runs rich, wont rev past 2-3k

    It runs way to rich cold or warm, but once I get driving it it fouls the plugs to the point it wont run. I have pulled apart the harness connectors and cleaned them all. If I remove the connection from the CTS it will run much richer and most of the time die. I Replaced the sensor when I first got the car. It reads about 330 ohms at operating temp at the ECU (13-ground)
  15. 240DL?

    Runs rich, wont rev past 2-3k

    Ill give that a shot, if I hold the AFM closed a little and rev the car will go to about 4000 with no load. By a little I mean just open enough to run the fuel pump On another note I took the car for a test drive to see if It would pull any higher then before. Within a mile down the road it couldnt pull at all and shut off. Once I pulled it back home I took out a plug and found it covered in gas. Gonna get a new set of plugs for it and try making some artificial vacuum leaks

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