Zed Head

I think that people nit-picked it because it was supposed to be show room perfect. It should be like going back in time to 1971. The sales shop should start over, with new pictures. The reflection of the show room floor in the paint makes the paint look like it has severe orange peel. Overall, it's just a bad presentation.

You're having odd problems, with odder solutions. Fixing a tach problem by disconnecting vacuum advance is weird. Seems like the breaker plate moving might have been working a loose connection. You might recheck the mounting of the points themselves. The screws and wires and contact areas.

It might be flooding. Maybe your CHTS is disconnected. It's in the vicinity of where you've been working.

Wouldn't they be throwing peanuts? Did you read the ad copy? It's a consignment shop, blowing up its goodness. Blame the shop. They hyped it as perfect. " He meticulously kept record of every maintenance item he ever preformed to the car, from day one! Including, gas, oil changes, and repairs. This particular 240z has a rich history as well as a showroom new look with less then 49,000 original miles. It is completely original and unmolested. That means this car has stayed in showroom new condition for 47 years! Meaning, it is a special part of Datsun history."

Your finger is on a wire that is connected. Not clear what you're asking.

If the engine is not running most of the oil is below that seal area. It's in the pan. When the engine runs that's when that area will leak.

Does your dad run stretched tires on his green Z or is his the other green Z? Just curious. To each his own...

That arm does not need to be perpendicular to the axis of rotation to actuate the cable. I think that you'd be fine to pry it away from the yoke to gain clearance. Stick a big screwdriver in that gap and move it.

Last one, but it bugged me from the beginning - the doors are definitely lighter in color than the fenders.

And, don't the wheel wells need to be cut to get those big tires under there? Some pictures from below would be nice. Not a single shot from underneath. Seems like a very nice but not extraordinary 78 280Z with many common parts. KYB, Vogtland, JDM fender flares. Made to look like a 240Z with the hood and bumpers. $20,000 seems generous.

Definitely looks nice. And shiny. I learned at an early age that when the odometer rolls over the numbers get all wiggly and off the same line. Makes you wonder.

Dark in here. Special storage area.

These?

Just curious but do people drive around with no filters on those triple Webers?

I meant that it looks like it has seen salt. Your fender well edges might be rotting. The rear shelf under the hatch lid. Inside the gas fill area. It only takes one trip after a snow storm to load things up with salty grime. It just sits there and works. Plus, somebody has already been fixing, as shown by the riveted supports. There's probably filled or painted over rust areas.

Kind of odd. Is he calling it a "Fairlady" because of the mirrors? 1978 can't be "matching numbers" because Nissan stopped putting the engine serial number on the tag. 1978 with a 4 speed is unusual. He forgot to write about the rear discs. Here's the real reason. It's a consignment car. http://www.realmusclecar.com/inventory/?type=auto&order=date|DESC https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/?dealer_id=1080

No offense to the later model 280Z owners...but it is "just" a 1978 280Z. A much better 280Z can be found for much less than it will cost to fix that one. If it doesn't have sentimental value, there's not much point to fixing it. Unless you want a good long project to work on.

How does the rest of the car look? Might be more important. There are other rust prone areas. Looks salty.

I don't think that they know a whole lot about what they have. Probably why they didn't set a price. The car show people have probably told them it's worth many many thousands of dollars. "Black leather interior. " "take it to car shows regularly. "

Reading this thread and last few posts I just realized where the faint smell of gasoline is coming from in my engine bay. If I'm leaning over the fuel filter I can smell it. I've spent a lot of time checking all of the clamps and hose to rail, and hose to filter, fittings. But now I realize it's probably just some fumes from my charcoal canister. The thought popped in to my head as I was about to say what the signs of clogged activated charcoal would be. It does get full eventually.

Not really sure which car you're working on, but there is a variety of wiring and relay upgrades that can be applied. Besides the general cleaning of the connections. Describe some gremlins and we'll offer our potions and spells.

You need to test it first. Make sure you get your eyes to bug out like the picture. There's an illustration of the filter change also. This is from 1976.

That is a very nice set of connectors. Proper spacing and everything. You might consider using a male and female connector (Weatherpack is popular, I think) at the end that you cut so that you can just remove all six as an assembly whenever needed. Much easier than splicing all six separately. Looks like it was made for it. http://www.whiteproducts.com/connectors.shtml

There was the same question not too long ago about exactly this. Browse through Captain Obvious's, and my, old posts and you might find it. Thin blades are the key, slip them in between the locking tabs, add some soapy water and pull them out.

It makes you wonder if the early ignition modules, 76 and 77, would actually work with no ballast and a larger plug gap. The first electronic ignition modules for the 260Z and maybe the early 75 280Z, were cool looking finned aluminum case units. Implying that they had heat issues, even with a ballast. I was lucky enough to have a 76 and 78 at the same time so compared those small things. I actually used the 78 module in my 76 for a while, with some wiring changes, after the 76 module crapped out. Now it's all GM HEI though, even the coil.