Zed Head

Motorman is right, I think. At least as far as the linkage being the problem, not 100% on the short-arm 180 off. This problem has been seen before, not uncommon. I thought of it after your first post, as others probably did too, but you said that everything was rotating correctly with the wipers off. At least you got everything super-lubed up now. Good luck.

If it was only running on three cylinders you'd probably know it. Although, apparently, three cylinders are almost as smooth as six. But that would be half power. The ignition parts probably won't help what you're describing. And the distributor vacuum is probably on ported vacuum so nothing will happen at idle if you disconnect the hose. And you would suck on the hose, not blow on it, for a test. You might start over with a new description of what's happening now. You started with what sounded like a possible ignition problem, then you got in to the carbs. Not 100% clear what problem you're trying to solve. Might be blending two or more together.

Can't you take a bit off with some Scothbrite, then repolish? Or you could ream the bushing. Just thinking...

I think that the low resistance primary circuit allows a faster "ramp up" to saturation for the coil current. It's not just the voltage-primary resistance calculation that matters. You need a fast ramp time at higher RPM because the time available to reach saturation is shorter. The Pertronix 6.9 A limit will produce more heat and will degrade your parts faster. If you don't have a turbo or are running at 7500+ RPM it's kind of an unnecessary heat load on the system. I use the actual GM HEI coil with my GM HEI module, just for parts harmony. The GM HEI coil has about 0.4 - 0.6 ohm primary resistance. By the way, with a good alternator you'll see over 14 volts. Also, the reason for connecting the two wires at the ballast is because one is Start power and the other is Run power. With the ballast in-use they bypassed the ballast to balance the voltage drop from the starter draw. Here's an interesting file I found out there about coils. I was looking for ramp rate and it's in there but there's a bunch of other neat stuff too. http://www.beruparts.co.uk/content/dam/marketing/emea/beru/brochure/en-all-about-ignition-coils.pdf

No you want to keep that area dry. Often transmission fluid works its way out from there. There are seals but best not to test them. Looks like you lost your protective rubber booty. Toothbrush and a rag...

Here's a ref showing the switchover, to the big body style. I've heard that the AZC guy answers his phone, even though his web site is from the 90's. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/axle/rear-suspension/71

Some people say that it will just by overloading it. It has to produce high current for as long as it takes to charge the battery. And most of today's reman alternators aren't very durable to start. Your hand held voltmeter will tell the story. The dash meter too, but it's not as accurate.

Doesn't the 240Z use a different bar than the 280Z? Which type of bar are you using? Which type is the AZC system designed for?

Does zinc plating add much thickness? Just envisioning a really sucky scenario. I don't see the scissors jack, or tire iron....

Nissan provided the patterns in the book. That book has so much information in it it makes me wish I had carbs. I think the part numbers might be in the book too. But there's always carpartsmanual. It says 1972 production. Plug in to Google and see what pops up. Page 72 has the dimensions - https://www.classiczcars.com/files/file/60-fuel-system-modification-plus-73-74/ Here's carpartsmanual - http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/engine-240z-260z/carburetor-240z-(l24)

It's okay to post the other member's name. The link would be even better. Nissan's description does not fit that scenario. Anybody with a properly installed system should be able to verify what's what. "Vapor lock" is caused by fuel vaporizing in the lines before the mechanical pump. It makes sense that an electric pump pushing fuel to the mechanical pump would help. If the pump's not running it's a restriction, causing lower line pressure, which lowers boiling point. But, Nissan had a plan. They just didn't tell anybody what it was. Who knows.

Your battery is probably so dead that the alternator can't keep the voltage up at low RPM. If you went from a stone dead battery to driving the car after getting a jump, that's a n issue. It puts a heavy load on the alternator also. We all use jumper cables at will but sometimes they shouldn't be used. Should have charged the battery up first. Plus letting a battery go completely dead is bad for it. They often don't recover. Check your voltages.

If the electric pump shuts off after starting then the mechanical pump would have to pull fuel through it. Which would increase the possibility of vapor lock. Plus the mention of the kit in the Troubleshooting section suggests that the electric pump is on while the engine is running.

And here's the recent Ignitor II thread. It's not been clear that the Ignitor II would work in a 240Z, they didn't show it as an application. but apparently it does. There's also the 123igniton programmable distributor. Which brings up the issue of timing advance curves. If you get a new distributor you'll probably get a different set of curves.

Here's that writeup with the wiring scheme.

There are many ways to get electronic ignition in to a 240Z. Somebody just posted about the Pertronix Ignitor II, which has current-limiting technology. That, apparently, will swap right in where the points were. The GM HEI module and the ZX module have current-limiting technology also. They all will work without the ballast resistor. The ballast limits current and gives a weaker spark. EuroDat wrote up a procedure with the wiring diagram for using a GM module with a 280Z distributor. As he said, it really comes down to simplicity.

Punched JBR105 in to the Rockauto Part Number search. even though it really looks like a 106. https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/autospecialty/kelsey-hayes,JBR105,rotor,1896

Says it's a 71. Looks nice, not a bad price. Matching numbers.

Sorry you didn't get any help. That's a very common type of question though. You didn't really need to remove the condenser. Does your tach still work correctly? Looks like you got the correct wires to the correct coil terminals. http://www.pertronix.com/docs/instruction-sheets/91141.pdf

Looks like it might have a fuel cell also. Not the stock fuel tank anyway. And dual exhaust pipes. What does "re-bodied" mean? The Z's are unibody, so there's no frame to put a new body on to.

I think he meant "live axle". Which is an odd name in itself. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beam_axle#Live_axle_vs_dead_axle To add - your suspension is already adjustable, the rear is at least. You can either raise the rear by moving the threaded perch stop, or lower the front. Assuming that whoever modified the rears also did the fronts. Take a picture of the front suspension.

Weak battery is a possibility also. Try starting the engine and getting the RPM up to where you have about 14 volts from the alternator. Might put you over the top.

I thought that closing the valves sooner moved the power peaks to lower RPM. Which is what happens if you move to the 2 or 3 hole. There's a method for checking valve timing. The notch and groove, shown in the Engine Mechanical chapter if you want to check yours. Your exhaust pipe wouldn't have much effect on power peaks. Found a good reference - http://www.compcams.com/Pages/413/cam-timing-lobe-separation-angle.aspx

Don't think I've seen anyone tear an engine down and put it right back together before, resisting the urge to put new parts in.

Are the E and the I really necessary?