Zed Head

A 260Z should have an L26. Might be where the question comes from.

This one is interesting. I'd bet that the tires rub though. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1977-datsun-280z-143/

$20,259, RNM.

Maybe this will liven up the start to 2026.

This might already be in the back of your mind - with the clutch disengaged the transmission main shaft stops spinning. With it engaged the shaft is spinning inside the transmission. You might have a problem inside the transmission.

Did you install the pilot bushing in the end of the crankshaft?

Circumference doesn't matter. Also, not clear how the collar length would cause knocking. Here are a few old threads about collar length though. Good luck. https://www.classiczcars.com/search/?q=92mm&quick=1&start_after=any&updated_after=any

If the clutch engages and disengages correctly then the length of the sleeve/collar is probably correct. The bearing and collar ride on the nose of the transmission front cover. They are attached to the fork with a spring clip, and the fork is attached to the pivot ball with a spring clip. Kind of sounds like one of those attachement points is loose. Maybe you forgot a spring clip or didn't get it seated correctly. The spring over the fork pivot ball can be difficult. Found a video with good pictures. Audio is bad though. Starts about 2:20. Uploading Attachment...

There should be a letter stamped on the back of the camshaft. https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/cam/index.htm

Public Service Announcement - I have found that you can delete everything after "html" in those long web links, then reload the page, to get a clean short web address. Pretty sure that all of your personal info is included in all of that extra code. Probably shows your location also. 😵 https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005003667804387.html

Check the grounding of the distributor. Or fix it if the ground test results are poor. The module's main ground is through the mounting points, which require a good grounding of the distributor body. The instructions don't really make that clear. Run a separate ground wire if yours is missing. You need that current flow to create a strong spark. https://images.carid.com/pertronix/products/pdf/1183-installation-instructions.pdf

I think I might have found it. Seems unique, never seen anything like it. https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256808424004821.html

I would guess that the quality of the parts is similar. They're both made at the same type of place, most likely. It's kind of weird isn't it, that the business would create an aliexpress persona using the name of what appears to be a non-Asian woman. Why not just use the business name? Seems deceptive. Or just, as I said, weird stuff! jonbill, you're in Australia aren't you? You might have more familiarity with aliexpress since it's probably easier and cheaper to get parts from them than eBay. Due to the proximity to the Asian suppliers. Just guessing, don't know.. I'm still interested in what's under the cap. I'll dig around and see if I can find something.

Do the eBay copies have "Weber" cast in to them?

I checked the link. They don't even show what's under the cap. How do you know it's not the same module? I think that Pertronix parts are made in China now. It's really surprising how the world as a whole (no offense intended) has become so much more okay with buying Chinese knockoffs. Products made in China by reputable brands are different, I think, than "copies" of reputable products. I have to imagine that if the product fails you're out all of the money. Probably no return policy or warranty. Copied the link again, it should be clickable. https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805918372904.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt Here is the "Seller info" from the link in the ad, for Sherryberg. Weird stuff! Looks like a whole enterprise based on copying auto parts.

Post the link. Maybe Sherryberg? https://xwebforums.com/forum/index.php?threads/replacing-weber-dmtr.38601/

The lines are pressurized with the lines connected correctly. So the spraying would be normal. The hose that connects to the fuel pressure regulator is the return line. The supply line connects directly to the rail.

If it was mine I'd put the old parts back on and see if the new problem goes away. Those electronic ignition modules are sensitive. Might be damaged or it might not not really like the 3 ohm coil. Have to put the old parts back on to be sure. Good luck.

Edited - Are you saying that it ran the same, except for the lunging? Trying to figure out if you're trying to solve an old problem or a new one. Seems like you might be saying that you tried to solve the over-4,000 RPM problem by switching to a 3 ohm coil but nothing changed much. You have a lack of power over 4,000 RPM. Might be that the ignition system is not the problem.

How did it run with the old coil and ballast resistor? Over 4,000 RPM.

I did see a little bit. Found this. Realized that TV's (called monitors today) back then were pretty bad. Much better today.

Foam weatherstrip tape. Allows removal later.

It's an odd bot though. It keeps coming back in different threads with the same comment. What could be its purpose? It's not developing in to something better. Maybe it's just monitoring activity on the web site. Weird stuff, this surveillance society. https://www.classiczcars.com/profile/45545-hkhctslue/

More learning. Sorry if I'm overdoing it. One last thing - if you've ever stored a tube of grease or a grease gun for an extended period of time then you've probably found a puddle of oil in the vicinity afterward. The oil can separate from the thickening agent. So, a chunk of grease is essentially a delayed-release oil reservoir for anything below it. Okay, thanks for the entertainment. InterflonWhat is the difference between oil and grease?Learn about the difference between oil and grease.

Dogpile! (Word used by kids when they tackle another kid and many other kids jump on). I learned more about something that I was vaguely aware of. Heat probably plays a part also. https://www.fluoramics.com/what-is-nlgi/07/