Zed Head

Have you examined the cone that the fitting seats on? It might need a hone.

Just do both at the same time. Make sure that the MC is tilted upward at the end so that the bubbles will be forced out. You can do that by leaving the bolts loose or by lifting the front of the car. The MC bleed screws are at the ends of the stroke you want the the bubbles to rise to that area so that they'll push out. Both front and rear are actuated at the same time, because they're in the same bore, so you can just run two hoses up in to the reservoirs and pump away.

In short, I think that your assumption is correct.

Interesting how far off the two are, time-wise. Not sure what's going on there. The FSM's I downloaded from this site or others. The 72 FSM files come with a cover image that says 1972. Somebody on the forum will know what's what. Might be that the change happened in 1972. The build date is what you see in the cparpartsmanual data. August/Sept 1971 is the changeover. Maybe the 72 FSM did not keep up.

The Nissan Factory Service Manual is where I got the images. Choose your source.

Added this -

73 flips front and back.

It fits the drawing and the specification (7/8") perfectly for a 1972 MC. Page BR-3 and -27. The 70 FSM matches it also.

I've had the thought that tying the springs down with spring compressors before lifting would stop the front end from rising, to give space. I didn't need it though, I was lifting from the rafters using a chain hoist. But it might be worth a shot if you know space will be tight.

We had a whole long conversation about that car earlier. There's something odd about the BHC. They collect junk and overprice it. Here's some old links, if they come through. Posts 96, 175, and 205.

Did you run the shoes out with the adjusting wheel before installing the drums? If your parts are right you should be able to crank the parking brake handle up and down about ten times and tighten them up. I could tell when the wheel moved an extra click on my 76 because the brake pedal got a bit higher in use. p.s. don't forget that if you can pump the pedal and it gets higher and harder then there's air in the system. If you can't then something mechanical is out of adjustment.

Check that bleed screws are on tops of calipers. Left and right can be swapped, the bleed screws can end up on the bottoms.

Here's some silver/gray stuff. There have been probably been many different colors over the years.

The tank repair guy probably uses something like Red-Kote. But has the experience to get it right. Should work. Good luck. http://damonq.com/red-kote.html https://covidactnow.org/us/north_carolina-nc/?s=26811580 You live out on the coast, right? Must be that ocean air. Stay away from those populated areas when you get back. Cases and hospitalizations are heading back up. The same cycle happens here in Washington. We're freee!...it's back...we're freee!...it's back...

Have you read Nissan's document? Might give you a few more ideas while you're devising solutions. I think that hot float bowls is part of the problem too.

The driver's side tail light lens is busted. That's a deal-breaker.

Plumbing and electrical fixtures offer a wide assortment of possibilities especially if the final route to the carbs is rubber hose. Many come with rubber or plastic grommets inside. Don't forget to insulate the rail. Nissan made up a whole fancy insulation package for the rails to combat heat soak and percolation. That aluminum is going to soak up the heat.

I don't think that I've ever seen all four switches on a ZX transmission. I think that two is more common. But it's easy to tell close and far apart by the exhaust hangers on the back and the reverse lockout plate on the side, among other clues. On the diff, it's easier to determine ratio than it sometimes seems. If you can get the back end of the car up, one easy way is to lay on your back under the diff, reach out and turn both tires one revolution at the same time. Count the number of times the pinion flange turns. You don't have to worry about the decimals. 3.54 = ~3 1/2, 3.9 = ~4, 3.7 = ~ 3 3/4. Mark the tires and the flange and just make sure that both tires end up at the same spot. If they get off a bit in the middle it doesn't matter. You can also check ratios on your transmission by marking the input and output shafts and counting/estimating. 3.321 is quite a bit different than 3.062. If you use a piece of tape on the output you don't have to be right over top of it to see when it's made a full turn.

The difference in shape is very apparent. I'd go with the pictures. Many errors in the various databases that are floating around out on the internet. Here's examples from zcarsource. They seem to be reputable. https://zcarsource.com/reconditioned-original-280z-gas-tank-for-the-1977-78-datsun-280z/ https://zcarsource.com/reconditioned-original-280z-gas-tank-for-the-1975-76-datsun-280z/

I picked Ford just for fun but there's a selection of 280Z pumps also. The Ford pumps have special nipples. Probably the same pump as the Nissan pump. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1976,280z,2.8l+l6,1209226,fuel+&+air,fuel+pump,6256 Ford - https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1111648&cc=1121779&pt=6256&jsn=32 280Z - https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1112295&jsn=267

Forgot to say the factory pump is only about 30 GPH. Many people get the Walbro high volume pump and experience noise because it pumps way more fuel than the engine needs or the lines can handle. The 240Z is known for having a small return line also which sometimes makes fuel pressure hard to regulate. Here's a calculator to get you close. That Motorcraft pump is used on their smaller 4.9 liter engine also. The Delphi and Bosch pumps are worth considering too. https://raceworks.com.au/calculators/fuel-pump-calculator/ http://www.kylesconverter.com/flow/liters-per-hour-to-gallons-(us-fluid)-per-hour https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1988,f-150,4.9l+300cid+l6,1121779,fuel+&+air,fuel+pump,6256 https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=383109&cc=1121779&pt=6256&jsn=1074

I used the Airtex E8312 pump, and got about 40,000 miles out of it. It's quiet is you mount it correctly. If you want to spend a little more you can try a different brand. Ford used a high pressure external pump for their late 80's models. Looks like it comes with a mounting system that keeps things quiet. Check the mounting on the pump you have. You want the pump to be resting in a bed of rubber, no metal to metal contact with the body. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1988,f-150,5.0l+302cid+v8,1121780,fuel+&+air,fuel+pump,6256 https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=383109&cc=1121780&pt=6256&jsn=986 https://www.amazon.com/Airtex-E8312-Electric-Fuel-Pump/dp/B000DT7Y7K/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=e8312&qid=1638982867&s=automotive&sr=1-4

The topic itself isn't really that bad. It's the use of the word "butthurt" that set things off. It's an offensive word. I'd avoid it in the future, along with similar words.

I wrote a whole long thing then realized that I don't know who you're talking about. Several of us went back through your posts, seen above, and can't find the complaints. Who are the "butthurt" people that you're talking about (of course realizing that "butthurt" is a term meant to insult people and cause a reaction)? Somebody here? Edit - nonproductive... But(t), best of all, if you just let this thread die and started posting things that people can add to, everybody (almost) would forget about this thread. p.s. many of my comments have attempts at humor included. Like bad jokes at a party.

Word.