Zed Head

Actually, it would be from neutral to reverse. Straight right, then down. To get past the lockout mechanism. Just saying...

I think that many people just get offended by the lack of effort some people put out to understand how things work before removing them. And the fact that in many cases the car will stink more and run worse afterward. For example, the BCDD's purpose is to let air in to the intake system so that the fuel from the injectors can properly burn. Without the BCDD the injectors still squirt some fuel even with the throttle blade shut that passes through and out the tail pipe, creating the "old car stink" that anybody who's been behind one hates. Removes the cats - mores stink. Remove the EGR - you're contributing to smog. Remove the AAR - you'll have to hold your foot on the throttle pedal or blip the engine until it's warm enough to keep running on its own. So the engineering types who work in fields that actually created these amazing technological conveniences can get a bit offended. To anyone who does plan to remove these things, just take a little time and try to understand what they do and why they are there, instead of posting about removing "emissions crap". It only takes a little bit of time and gives you the ammo to say that you've considered it and made your decision.

I don't see any posts about EGR on your car on this forum either. Maybe you're getting your forums mixed up? As far as the FSM goes, these early FSM's are like school textbooks. Much more educational than today's FSM's. I have to say it, even though it won't make you feel better - the title of the thread is mirronic. I just now made that word up, because "ironic" is used incorrectly so often. Anyway, don't get caught up in anybody's comments, if you think they're negative. There's plenty of positive here to destroy the negativity.

Based on what I saw I assumed it would be taken as a compliment. Oh well. The funny part is I'm not really interested in the Proto-Z or the 0-60 times, or the physics, or the math. I was just making an indirect comment about the hijacking. Thread-jacking is rude.

Do you have a link or a name? I'm sure Amazon probably has a list available but a starting point is always good.

This looks like math-nerd bench racing. No need to drive the cars, the numbers tell us what will happen.

Pressure should rise with RPM. You might rev the engine and see what the needle does. The oil pressure gauge and sensors are known for their inaccuracy on these cars.

Use the factory ignition wire. Black with white stripe.

Wikipedia? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_Z-car

Probably the destroyed adapter plate bearing. I noticed that many of the shifters shown didn't have bushings which can also cause problems. Did you find any metal on the drain plug? That's a clue.

Analog would work too, really...

I never made it to Webelos. Got some Cub Scout stuff though. Tied some knots, climbed some trees...

It will remove the external regulator from the picture. You'll know immediately. Good luck.

Are you using somebody's kit? It's not a direct swap. You need other parts. Much simpler to just buy a reman caliper. https://zcardepot.com/products/front-big-brake-kit-toyota-caliper-240z-260z-280z

With the external regulator doesn't the backfeeding happen at the regulator? It's mechanical, I don't really know how the things works. But, the "break" should be there, in the regulator, either a diode or a relay of some kind. Maybe it's just a sign of a bad regulator. Might be worthwhile to examine the plug and wiring very carefully, and the bottom of the regulator. There is exposed circuitry underneath, if I recall right. Might just need a cleanin'.

What's the material for the spacer?

I think you meant backfeed. MSA has been backordered on the backfeed prevention conversion plugs. Might need to show him the diode fix.

First gear is where you'll notice the changes. 4th gear is always 1:1. But between those two choices you have a 3.321 1st, or a 3.062 1st. If you live in a hilly area or do a lot of city driving, the lower 12.95 overall might feel right. If you live on flat ground and don't do a lot of stop and go, you'll probably find that 1st is pretty "short". Also, the other notable difference between the two choices is that the early 5 speed has a noticeable gap from 2nd to 3rd. If you're climbing or trying to accelerate you need to stay in 2nd longer than you'd think to get a good shift. Waa...waaaaaa...waaaa...waaaa...waaaaaa versus waa..waa..waaa..waaaa...waaaaa Don't forget to calculate the effect of tire size. 3.321 x 3.54 = 11.75 3.062 x 3.9 = 11.94 3.321 x 3.9 = 12.95

Well, that's a bummer. Looks like a nice car with no major problems. Add more pictures, a lot of them, with closeups (the single image you posted is from a distance), and you'll probably sell it pretty quick. Nothing wrong with hanging around if you sell your Z (I think).

No offense intended, but it's all right there in the FSM. The booster is adjusted to work with the MC. You have to put the flange on the booster and adjust the rod to the proper distance.

The screw I vaguely remember. p.s. there's a circlip that keeps the piston in the bore. Should be visible.

I have a memory of a "stop" screw in the M/C's that stops the travel of the piston in the bore. I wonder if your "new" Tokico has been reassembled incorrectly. The position of the piston at the opening of the bore should be the same for both MC's. They both have the same ID. All signs point to incorrect Tokico, or Tokico assembly. I'm going to guess that somebody put the piston on the wrong side of the stop screw. Post pictures of those same two MC's but from the open end.

They're very close to the same length and should work the same way. Sounds more like there might be something wrong with the "new" Tokico. Make sure you're fixing the correct problem.

What's the measurement? Sounds like you're mixing and matching parts. If I interpret your posts correctly it sounds like you're saying that the rod #2 is sticking out of the booster by almost an inch and is causing the Tokico piston to bottom out in the bore. Can't imagine it came that way. No offense but your words don't present a clear picture. How about a real picture, of the booster with the rod sticking out?

You could have the stock cam regorund if it wasn't damaged. But, the Z22E is an EFI engine and its engine management might not work well with a non-stock cam. 1982 is still pretty primitive, I don't think it's tuneable, besides the AFM and other parts designed for a certain cam profile. So, you might end up needing Megasquirt or one of the other engine management systems. https://www.racetep.com/engine-building/camshaft-grinding.html