Zed Head

And here's the recent Ignitor II thread. It's not been clear that the Ignitor II would work in a 240Z, they didn't show it as an application. but apparently it does. There's also the 123igniton programmable distributor. Which brings up the issue of timing advance curves. If you get a new distributor you'll probably get a different set of curves.

Here's that writeup with the wiring scheme.

There are many ways to get electronic ignition in to a 240Z. Somebody just posted about the Pertronix Ignitor II, which has current-limiting technology. That, apparently, will swap right in where the points were. The GM HEI module and the ZX module have current-limiting technology also. They all will work without the ballast resistor. The ballast limits current and gives a weaker spark. EuroDat wrote up a procedure with the wiring diagram for using a GM module with a 280Z distributor. As he said, it really comes down to simplicity.

Punched JBR105 in to the Rockauto Part Number search. even though it really looks like a 106. https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/autospecialty/kelsey-hayes,JBR105,rotor,1896

Says it's a 71. Looks nice, not a bad price. Matching numbers.

Sorry you didn't get any help. That's a very common type of question though. You didn't really need to remove the condenser. Does your tach still work correctly? Looks like you got the correct wires to the correct coil terminals. http://www.pertronix.com/docs/instruction-sheets/91141.pdf

Looks like it might have a fuel cell also. Not the stock fuel tank anyway. And dual exhaust pipes. What does "re-bodied" mean? The Z's are unibody, so there's no frame to put a new body on to.

I think he meant "live axle". Which is an odd name in itself. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beam_axle#Live_axle_vs_dead_axle To add - your suspension is already adjustable, the rear is at least. You can either raise the rear by moving the threaded perch stop, or lower the front. Assuming that whoever modified the rears also did the fronts. Take a picture of the front suspension.

Weak battery is a possibility also. Try starting the engine and getting the RPM up to where you have about 14 volts from the alternator. Might put you over the top.

I thought that closing the valves sooner moved the power peaks to lower RPM. Which is what happens if you move to the 2 or 3 hole. There's a method for checking valve timing. The notch and groove, shown in the Engine Mechanical chapter if you want to check yours. Your exhaust pipe wouldn't have much effect on power peaks. Found a good reference - http://www.compcams.com/Pages/413/cam-timing-lobe-separation-angle.aspx

Don't think I've seen anyone tear an engine down and put it right back together before, resisting the urge to put new parts in.

Are the E and the I really necessary?

Found this in my 1976 FSM. Weirdly, it doesn't show L28 as an application. But it does imply the bolts are 1/4", non-metric, also weird.

Your car is an impulse buy. Candy red sports car. It's not the sensible buy of someone who has planned ahead, with any of CO's criteria. Put it somewhere visible with a big For Sale sign and a link to the CL ad as contact info.

I bought a motorcycle because it caught it my eye, For Sale, in someone's front yard as I drove home from work. Had to have it. Wasn't even looking for one.

9/76 is before 1979.

It was known that he was moving. Google says closed permanently but I think he's still out there. Probably have to call. His fancy new web site is still awaiting its own birth. http://www.zspecialties.com/ https://www.datsunstore.com/

Resto-mod cars really have brought some good money on BAT. I think if you found a grill and some bumpers that would add a lot of value. No offense, but it looks incomplete as it is. Maybe even just a front bumper. Here's a BAT 280Z up for sale. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1978-datsun-280z-40/

The tow hooks and exposed grill probably aren't going to help. Specs on the engine build would help, if you did it or a pro. A professionally built engine could add value. Home built, maybe not. More details are always good. "Treated" doesn't really mean anything. "Bigger" brakes either. No interior pictures. You forgot to mention the rear strut tower brace, if that's what the red bars in the back window are. Just stuff that pops in to mind. Bringatrailer seems to bring some good prices.

Take off the headgasket and see what shape the stub is in. I did almost exactly what gwri8 described on my one broken bolt. The problem with letting a shop do it is that they sometimes charge by the hour. And it can take a while to get them out. I'd clean up the interface and see if any rust breaker can get in there. The shots with a hammer help break up the bond. I didn't tap mine I gave it some good hard knocks. It came out eventually. But I had more to work with.

Do you have the 3.9 R180? I've never been clear on what ratios the 240's come with. The early 240 4 speeds were 3.592 first gear. 3.592 x 3.9 = 14.00.

Good luck. You can spend a lot of money just on the rebuild. Check that head for warpage. It might need machining, which will add cost. A big shave will need camtower shims. All kinds of nickel and dime stuff. Your new camshaft will need a set of rocker arms and lash pads. I'd put a list together and see where you can save.

What is the ratio of first gear in the transmission, and the differential? A factory stock 1976 280Z has a 3.321 first gear ratio and a 3.54 differential ratio. This gives an 11.76 overall ratio in first gear. A 1981 280ZX has a 3.062 first and 3.9 rear - 11.94 overall. Those ratios will determine how much "pickup" you'll have in first gear. Tire size is important also but the gear ratios are more important. You will achieve more response by increasing either of those two numbers, first gear or the differential ratio.

Where did that "Page 11" come from? Might be some clues there. Never heard of the V-3 program myself, but I have a 280Z. A wiring schematic would show the function of the relays and with that the wiring would be easier. Also, you posted in Fuel Injection instead of a carb forum. No biggy, just not a great intro. Who are you anyway?

That seems to be the difficulty. There are a few guys on the forum who have rebuilt theirs and know where the good parts are. Some of the "kits" apparently are not of high quality. Most say to use Nissan synchros, even though they can be expensive. The bearings are common, it's the synchros that are hard to find, I think.