Zed Head

The simple direct answer is "yes, your picture looks off by about 8 degrees". Your damper might have slipped, or your method isn't precise. A hard piston stop would be more accurate. Mark both sides and split the difference.

Hey, isn't that backward? The notches will move down as timing advances, so the zero notch should be the bottom one and you'll get 5 degrees per notch by the light as timing advances. I tried to find a reference in the FSM but it says the zero is "to the left", and the picture shows a head-on view. I'm sure those notches will "drop" by the light though as you rev the engine, as the single notch does on the 280. So, he's only a few degrees off. At close to TDC you can move quite a few degrees with almost no piston movement.

Everyone's selling their Roadster. https://portland.craigslist.org/grg/cto/d/1967-roadster-datsun-spl/6599233899.html https://portland.craigslist.org/grg/cto/d/1968-spl-311-datsun-roadster/6599234359.html https://portland.craigslist.org/clc/cto/d/1969-datsun-spl311-roadster/6603639661.html https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/d/1969-datsun-1600-for-sale-or/6605844949.html https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/d/1969-datsun-roadster-2000/6620896296.html

Like Dave says, music or piano wire will work. The hardest part is getting it bent without breaking it. Make sure you get the bends oriented correctly too, it doesn't twist in the sheath at all.

I think that you might have to buy a new set of lash pads to use that cam. It's probably ground on a smaller base circle. Might influence your decision. Plus, if your engine is not built to handle the higher RPM range, you won't be able to use its full potential without damaging the engine. http://schneidercams.com/290F_L6.aspx

How did you find TDC?

Where's the body? And the engine? Are you going full aftermarket performance or parting out a rust bucket?

Maybe you could do a big old cut and paste for us non-subscribers, non-sign-in-ers?

I suggested flooding because it could start on ether then the injectors would dump a bunch of fuel thinking that it's in the Arctic, if the CHTS was disconnected. But, confirming spark is always a good idea. Just noticed that it's a turbo also, which has the CAS to worry about. And the "ignitor", which can be replaced by a GM HEI module. The ignitors go bad, the CAS parts go bad. Lots of electrical gizmos to worry about to create a spark on the turbo system.

Here and here? You're saying that if one fits the other doesn't? I'd grind the inside interference before the outside mounting points. If I had to use those. But, were it mine, I'd just go back to the stock setup.

It has a fuse and it runs through a switch. It's a power supply line. So all you need to do is decide when you want it to have power. It's probably tied to the Accessory circuit somehow, maybe through a tap, since it's aftermarket, to the Acc relay. You can search for the original connector or make your own. Use an ohm meter to make sure that the circuit is not shorted. Turn the switch while you're measuring resistance, it should go from some resistance to open circuit as it passes the temperature set point, assuming the other end of the circuit is connected correctly. Put a 10 amp fuse in the little holder too and you should be safe. It will blow if you made a mistake.

No insight from actually using them. Are the pistons fully retracted? The hydraulic pressure will be the same no matter how far the pistons are extended, or mismatched, so you could make them work by taking material from the pad surface. One side's pistons will be more extended than the others, if I'm reading your problem right, but it won't affect performance.

The ignition module was in the cabin until 1979, when they introduced the ZX "match box" distributor module. We have pummeled the hot start topic in previous threads. Definitely heat-related, but seems to be general heat around the injectors. Happens without exhaust leaks..

I think that people nit-picked it because it was supposed to be show room perfect. It should be like going back in time to 1971. The sales shop should start over, with new pictures. The reflection of the show room floor in the paint makes the paint look like it has severe orange peel. Overall, it's just a bad presentation.

You're having odd problems, with odder solutions. Fixing a tach problem by disconnecting vacuum advance is weird. Seems like the breaker plate moving might have been working a loose connection. You might recheck the mounting of the points themselves. The screws and wires and contact areas.

It might be flooding. Maybe your CHTS is disconnected. It's in the vicinity of where you've been working.

Wouldn't they be throwing peanuts? Did you read the ad copy? It's a consignment shop, blowing up its goodness. Blame the shop. They hyped it as perfect. " He meticulously kept record of every maintenance item he ever preformed to the car, from day one! Including, gas, oil changes, and repairs. This particular 240z has a rich history as well as a showroom new look with less then 49,000 original miles. It is completely original and unmolested. That means this car has stayed in showroom new condition for 47 years! Meaning, it is a special part of Datsun history."

Your finger is on a wire that is connected. Not clear what you're asking.

If the engine is not running most of the oil is below that seal area. It's in the pan. When the engine runs that's when that area will leak.

Does your dad run stretched tires on his green Z or is his the other green Z? Just curious. To each his own...

That arm does not need to be perpendicular to the axis of rotation to actuate the cable. I think that you'd be fine to pry it away from the yoke to gain clearance. Stick a big screwdriver in that gap and move it.

Last one, but it bugged me from the beginning - the doors are definitely lighter in color than the fenders.

And, don't the wheel wells need to be cut to get those big tires under there? Some pictures from below would be nice. Not a single shot from underneath. Seems like a very nice but not extraordinary 78 280Z with many common parts. KYB, Vogtland, JDM fender flares. Made to look like a 240Z with the hood and bumpers. $20,000 seems generous.

Definitely looks nice. And shiny. I learned at an early age that when the odometer rolls over the numbers get all wiggly and off the same line. Makes you wonder.

Dark in here. Special storage area.