Zed Head

Need the same picture, but from yours.

They advance the timing based on temperature, just like the 280Z distributors do, using the ignition module instead of the two pickup coils in the distributor. It's shown on page EL-26 of the 1983 FSM. I'd post a picture but there's something wrong with the forum. Out of storage space, I believe. "Image could not be saved. Please contact us for assistance." "Upload failed". @Mike

I actually did notice that the one you took out seemed backward, in the pictures, from the one you out in. But, I trusted your experience.

The magnet is circular. It tends to break.

The kind of look like they go under the dash, inside the car. Don't know.

@Dave WM needs another engine. It's already on a Harbor Freight engine stand.

This guy needs one of these. He'd probably take the whole spring piece.

There are more sophisticated options to control spark. Lock out the advance mechanism of the distributor and it becomes essentially like a CAS on the damper pulley. Similar to what you get with the 123 except you use your original distributor. https://www.cbperformance.com/CB-s-Black-Box-Programmable-Timing-Control-Module-p/2013.htm You could also go to a crank trigger and something like Megasquirt or Microsquirt. If you want reliability and inexpensive ignition modules, convert any of your three distributors to use a GM HEI module. About $25 each.

They probably can be, but you won't know for sure until they've been sparking away on a hot engine. They have a tendency to be heat-sensitive. If you're basically starting from scratch and aren't tied to "original" there are quite a few other options for ignition modules. If you use a remote module, the distributor just becomes a triggering device, that also controls timing advance. If you think of it that way options like the 123 ignition system look good. The main problem with the old Nissan distributors is that the breaker plate bearings dry up and destroy their bearing cage. The parts are NLA and it doesn't seem like anyone makes them. I think that Cardone just tests a bunch of old parts until they find some that work, then assemble the used parts and call it "rebuilt". Has anyone closely examined the Cardone breaker plate to see if it's new parts? Curious.

I had to Google Wanda Wiggins. I was precoccupied in the 70s and missed those shows.

I thought you had a 78. Oops. You can use a different module with the 77 distributor, without modifying the distributor itself, and get rid of the ballast. But. Your 77 distributor might need a rebuild also. They tend to rust up. Distributation is getting harder these days. The parts is disappearing. Good idea to get ahead of the problem.

Ask him what, exactly, he does. And if his price includes the ignition module. I posted in your other thread, a Standard brand ignition module can cost $140. You might be up to $340 by the time it's ready to use.

Nissan improved things in 1978. The ignition module seems to have the same features as the ZX module, it's "high energy" as shown by wide spark plug gap, it's just in the old big package. They got rid of the ballast, your 78 doesn't have it. . Beside the mechanical issues, finding the E12-80 modules for the ZX is more difficult. A name brand module will cost almost as much as the rebuild in your other thread. Just something to consider. Your 280Z module is flexible as far as ignition module options, you can use MSD, Crane, or whatever, without too much trouble. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1979,280zx,2.8l+l6,1209293,ignition,ignition+control+module+(icm),7172

I'd send it back. If they won't offer support, or instructions, and the wire colors are wrong, who knows about the overall quality of the part. It sounds like a cheap ripoff, easy money for the counterfeiter. The 8920 is about $10 more. You might even consider the Technoversion adapter. He gets good reviews. Seems to make good stuff. https://www.technoversions.com/TachMatchHome.html

sitecliffunseen often links to the atlanticz/blue/246 page showing how to rebuild the ZX distributor. Your first one looks like the bushing is shot. The second might be okay. What's wrong with your 280Z distributor? Same power level, just a remote ignition module.

We need to know the parts you're working with. Points, ZX, 280Z VR,...

Looks like "Procomp" copied MSD, but didn't do a great job. You have a dilemma. You want the tach to only see current flow from the coil. So, you might not even need the tach adapter. If you describe the rest of the parts one of the electronics whiz's might have some thoughts. I've not been impressed with those adapters, they often don't work even when connected like MSD says. The tach operation is fairly simple. Sometimes you just need to add a loop at the pickup point on the back of the tach.

Descriptions of how to replace those two seals are definitely an addition to the body of knowledge. Many people over the years have commented about the puddle of oil in the shifter hole. I've given bad advice about it in the past. @FastWoman I'm not sure she still has her car but she had the leaky seals way back when.

Actually the red light would come on if the alt died, signifying a charging problem. And the needle goes up when the engine is running and the alt is charging. So, if you're aware, you'll notice odd needle behavior. I see the main difference as what their names say - one shows amps flowing the other shows volts. But it would be nice to see both. "Gee whiz, there's a lot of current going somewhere". or "Holy moly, my battery level sure is sitting low". I just like to have lots of data to think about. Either way though, you have to look at the gauge occasionally. "How long has that been going on?"

I was talking about the darkness. Bad joke. Why can't we have both. Ammeter and voltmeter?

$10,000 and there's a driving video now. Something off, I think, it's a high performance car shop, supposedly, but the video is just a few seconds of cruising down the highway. They know what people want but don't give it. It's a 240Z with a turbo and giant tires. C'mon! It has some power though. Thanks for posting this wheee! (Mark). Fun to to follow.

Dead battery?

Here's 76. Whatever you're turning, it shouldn't be loose.

So the metal sleeve is still in there, I think I see it). I wonder if the urethane bushings are meant to have the sleeve removed? Might be an option if you can't find a replacement. Press the sleeve out with a vise or a press if the urethane that you have is too tight to fit. It's probably about like a front control arm bushing.

Looks like you need part #18. It would have a metal sleeve around the rubber. Is the metal sleeve still in yours? Not really clear what went wrong with yours. The rubber does not melt. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/engine-240z-260z/engine-mounting/manual-from-c-hls30-46001-rls30-grls30