Zed Head

Polar opposite? Over-exaggeration ruins your attempted effect. Cheetahs aren't known for leaping.

Looks familiar... https://www.motortrend.com/news/chevrolet-corvette-c8-2020-car-of-the-year/

It's a crap shoot out there, with loaded dice. Be careful what you think you believe. Leading the world in testing. Right... https://www.theatlantic.com/health/archive/2020/05/cdc-and-states-are-misreporting-covid-19-test-data-pennsylvania-georgia-texas/611935/ https://www.whitehouse.gov/briefings-statements/united-states-built-worlds-leading-coronavirus-testing-system/

Yes, at the slave cylinder. Pretty easy. Take the dust boot off first though, if it's full of fluid then your slave cylinder seal is bad. You can peel the boot off by hand, Fluid might squirt out if it's in there so watch your eyes.

What will they be taking pictures of? How much will you be paying? I've found that putting the information out from the beginning gets a better response. Like "inquire inside" on a For Sale sign. You know they want too much money, so you never inquire. Just tell what you're looking for and what it's worth to you. With everything slowed down some people are looking for any good reason to go do something.. Good luck.

I just added to the 1977 block. Looks like it could be interesting. Wikipedia has citations. Is theer any way to add citations? They could link to the Download area. For example, comments about carb heat soak or vapor lock could link to the 73-74 carb mod document.

I think that those are 280ZX parts, maybe some 300ZX also. Still valuable. The diff looks very interesting, it looks like a 300ZX turbo diff. Maybe they used it in the 280ZX in Europe. Too bad you are way over there. I can't remember all of our European friends but here is one. @EuroDat

There's a procedure for testing them. They're called pivots. I've only read of a few problems with them, they can wear out. You can probably replace them without removing the head, engine in the car, if you have to.

Somebody probably sent the guy a message saying "you're devaluing the market! That car is worth $20,000!". It'll probably pop back up somewhere.

So, a main forum and several subs, like CO laid out? Assume that a year of changes packed in to one sub-forum is manageable? Should there be a "Series X" sub or not? Main - Ch ch ch ch changes over the years - 70 - 78 sub - 1970 sub - 1971 sub - 1972

This place is really just one guy. You could call him and see if he'll sell you just two. https://zcardepot.com/collections/suspension/products/coil-spring-set-stock-and-lowered-240z-260z-280z Edit - also, just thought of this, there are places that will wind you a spring. The spring data is in the FSM.

Are you planning to drive the car? Download the document that shows why the heat shields were added.

The screw is on the throttle body. Has a big washer underneath a Philips head. You can turn it by hand. Don't mess with the AFM screw. Good luck.

Sounds like the EFI harness connections got switched. Nissan made the connectors look and work exactly alike so not a surprise. Check the AFM switch. If you have a big vacuum leak it might not be staying contacted to run the fuel pump. Also, try opening up the idle adjustment screw just to keep it running. Sounds like a fuel problem, not a coil problem.

The switches on top of the steering column are known for broken solder joints and pitting. You can add a relay in various places along the path. Pry the top off of your switch and you might be shocked at what's going on in there. Rabbit hole...

They're the green ones. Same as used on the headlight circuit. I've never found a good conversion tool or equation for converting slow blowing fusible links to fuses. Seems like it would be a thing but it's hard to find.

How about an Editorial Board, and a place to submit entries for review and acceptance. That would take the load off of just one person but still provide a filter for indiscriminate additions. I think that that is how the big wiki's work, kind of.

Have you used a meter to confirm that there is power to the proper places at the tach? My first electrical problems on my car were when I just connected wires by color according to someone else's diagram. The diagram and instructions are just a start. You need to use a meter or test light to confirm that power and ground are correct. I don't see that you've actually measured or confirmed anything, except for one post that says you confirmed "power in the wire". I also see that you, apparently, did not try adding resistance in the circuit to the tach. That would make it identical to the 280Z wiring. The 240Z and 280Z tachs function based on different principles. You can keep swapping parts but you'll progress much faster with some good measurements.

If I remember right wiki editors have to be approved by the wiki owner. I think that you're the only allowed wiki editor at this time Mike @Mike I clicked on the "test wiki entry" link and got a page that looked like your profile page with all of your content. Edit - I clicked on the test entry and it opened. But still no way to add anything. I tried to add a comment but nothing happened. I don't see any way to add to the wiki. I barely know where Wikipedia information comes from. I think the people would have to learn about wiki. Which is like learning Facebook. Which is like learning Twitter. Like Instagram. Tik-tok. It's an electronic rabbit hole.

Good luck. I found that my 78 tach was sensitive to the signal on the coil negative. After I switched to a GM HEI ignition module the tach needle would not track RPM it just quivered and bounced until I added a condenser/capacitor to the negative side of the coil. I had a 78 tach in my 76 because the 76 tach would stop working when it got hot, in the summer months. So the old tachs are wearing out and they are sensitive to the igntion coil pulses. If you add more detail to your description there might be some clues. "Doesn't work" for example, doesn't tell much. My tach with the quivering needle didn't work, but the quiver was a clue. p.s. I'll bet that a tach could be checked for proper operation from under the hood, right at the coil with some jumper wires. Ground, power, coil signal, maybe an added resistor or condenser to be sure. Use your car's engine as the test bed.

I know that you posted some links to someone else's conversion procedure, and there was a lot of discussion that followed, but you might describe exactly how your 280Z tach is wired up. Power, grounds, and any added resistors. It's not clear. If I understand your posts correctly, you followed a conversion procedure but I don''t see the details on how the tach is connected to the car's wiring. I didn't click through to the conversion links.

You won't know until you stop by or call them up. I had two Nissan dealers in my area, one was terrible, one was great.

I think that @SteveJ knows the area. How much restoration are you planning, and do you plan to do any of the work yourself? All options are fine, but will make a difference in recommendations.

They both matter. The oil pump switch plug is on the side of the engine block by the oil filter. 1978 has one of the most complex fuel pump control systems. So, you're going to have study the diagrams. try some things, and take some voltage readings. Keep good notes, they'll help.

Meter, meter, chicken dinner.