J Shara

Has anyone used beck arnley rod bearings in rebuilding their engines? i'd like to hear some feed back if anyone has used them before buying a set

The main bearings i got were spot on and they were from beck arnley, i might just go wi th a set from them

Ok so i successfully put the crankshaft back in the block( i hope). I cleaned the pistons a second time to prepare them for the new rings. Now, i got a set of new piston rings from BDA, they're from the company GRANT. I was having some trouble getting the oil expander spacer to butt properly and stay butted whilst i was orientating the side rails, i managed to get them butted again, and staggered properly but, a question i have is, will compressing them when it comes time to put the pistons back in the block un-butt the expander? And i also purchased a set of replacement rod bearings from BDA from the company ITM, and not a single bearing insert lines up exactly with the oil hole in the connecting rod, will this starve my rod bearings of oil?

So on saturday i finally put my new main bearing in the block. I put the grooved inserts withe oil holes in the block and did all the necessary cleaning and prepping of the bearing backs and the bearing bores in the blocks, and put the crank in. I plastigauged all the main bearings and here is what i got. Journals 1,2,3,4,5, and 7 all read .0020 inches oil clearance, and journal 7 read .0015 inches clearance.

yes, i was a bit puzzled by zforces post because as far as i know the L20B and the other L series fours are the only ones that have the two front bearing oil holes that feed the chain oil. And would the green plastigauge cover this range, it measures .0010 to .0030, it should be fine right?

yes, but i went to xenon z and downloaded a 1973 z FSM and it says thatt the main bearing oil clearance is .0008 to .0028 inches and the wear limit was .0047 in, i think if my reading was anywhere near that i would need a new crankshaft, but the car ran flawlessly before i disassembled it so i doubt the crank will be that worn

I am about to put the crank back in the block of my L24. I bought new engine main bearings from black dragon and i am goin to plastiguage the new bearings. Does anybody know the oil clearance spec for the L24 mains?

I have two at my house, 73 240z, and a 72 VW bug.

Hey im in Fallston Md. Pretty much snowed in here too, have a little over 2 feet.

$1500 to $1800 I would guess

Which would be the better choice in 240z triple carb set ups, Mikuni 44's, or Weber DCOE's?

I have 2 1973's and they both have speedos that start at 10, did they ever start at 0?

Yea, from what i can see from your pictures, you car isnt really that bad, i would say that the front structural members of your car as well as the air tubes are about as bad as mine were, as for your interior though, those rats probably trashed it. Also, i had trouble with those damn acorn nuts in the tail lights too, i wound up just pulling them out of the plastic with vice grips.

Did you try to start your engine to see if it ran right before you started tearing her down, it would be shame to put those nice new webers on and then find out that it has a blown rear crank seal or something.

Yes, it does look a little to teal, and i did use primer, light gray primer though, im comparing it to this, i was under the impression that the original color looked like this:

Here is what it looked like on my water pump pulley, with primer: You cant tell from the picture, but it looks like a dark teal/ navy blue.

I purchased some engine block paint from classic datsun motorsports. I was wondering if anybody else has used the same stuff because the color i have is almost a teal blue, and it doesnt resemble the original datsun blue color.