St.stephen

I don't know that I recall a 72 having bumper ends on the front. Only the rubber strips which have studs that go through the bumper,then the lock washer then the nuts. The rear seems to just have rubber shims which protect the rear quarters from the bumpers However the listing I am looking at does not show how these are attached. I can check the FSM when I get home from my early 74 260 as this has the 240 bumpers if no one else gets back to you

Mike do you have a 240?

MSA carries KYB for 99.95 and two models of Tokico (illumina 149.95) and High Performance (76.95) for the 74 2+2. I know I tried to do a rear susp swap from the 78 2+2 to my 74 coupe and found the coil springs to be longer however I am not sure if the strut cartridges are any differant. MSA also carries Motorsport springs (179.95), tokico (229.95), European (original nissan competition springs found on production cars in europe at 180.00 for a set of 2) and Eibach (one inch lowered at 279.95) Hope this helps!

His feelings, he didn't even consider the Z's feelings!!!! I know for a fact no Z wants to look like that. you can just see the car crying! :disappoin

yeah like the mullett engineered Z 4X4 or that trans-am nascar Z.

Shame on you 2many Nobody should ever do that to any Z! Not even a 2+2 or a Z31!

I am def not a fan at all :devious:

I think I spend waaaaay to much time lurking around here . This site is usually up most of the day on my machine. There is always a wealth of information to read, tons of great pics, and the members are all wonderful. I check out zcar.com, however just the classifieds mostly. I'm always looking for stuff I can't affford and have no room to store anyway. Zdriver I browse now and again and as far as hybridz is concerned, I am too much of a purist to enjoy that one. I give big props for the craftsmanship and creativity that goes into creating some of the cars on that site though. ebay is my next daily visit. I am always looking to see whats up for sale!

mak, I hear yah on the east coast dilemma of finding good cars. I have it even worse than you, I am in Jersey. The salt up here from the winters does them in, if sitting disabled in peoples lawns doesn;t get to them first. 2many is located in VA. he may have something floating around his warehouse :classic:

That was the first thing I went after and it;s a hydraulic line. The clutch master cyl. is full doesn;t appear to be leaking anywhere and the pedal lets off about half way up and grabs alright. Also, if I am on a slight hill with the clutch all the way to the floor, the truck moves freely so it seems to be disengaging alright.

alright, Looking for some advice..... my GF and I have a 97 Explorer sport, 5 speed manual, 4wd, 4.0 OHV that has just passed 120,000 pretty flawlessly, However I am noticing now that at times its very tough to get into gear. No gear specifically more than the others however there are times where it's rather difficult Once you are on the move and shifting it just doesn't seem as fluid. Does this sound like a shift fork or Synchro issue? I think there are two diff types of manuals in these one being from mazda? Has anyone ever had one these open?

Many moons ago I needed a new rad for my 280. I opened the hood of an 83zx in a salvageyard and low and behold there was a brandy new one! I pulled it, brought that and my old rad to the shop area where the guy using a torch removed the mounting brackets from my old 280 rad, and swapped the ZX brackets. The ZX rad mounted right up and the whole thing cost me 45 bucks. just a thought.

Its not cheap. 2,400,000 equals 20,589.22 USD 1 JPY (yen) = 0.00857884 USD 1 USD = 116.566 JPY

In the past I have always used a light film of "spray tack" on the gasket just to hold it in place on the block while I position the head. Other than that I have never used any sort of RTV sealant or form a gasket in addition and I would not recommend it as when the head is tightened the gasket will mold and fill in the slight uneveneness between the head and block and give a nice tight seal.

agreed, that is exactly where I place mine.

alan, thanks so much for the info. The 246 and the miura have always been a dream of mine so I have been pricing the reality of that dream and until I hit the lotto looks like that is all it;s going to be. This gentleman in CA miura resto bought a miura back in 1980 something and still has yet to finish it. He also has a uracco that he is going to be selling to help fund the project. Great site with lots of info. He is currently restoring the car with some SV upgrades. Both the 246 and the miura are to me two of the most gorgeous vehicles ever built. maybe some day I'll get my hands on one before I take my last breath on this earth :classic:

ebay uk

Alan very well said! On another unrelated note, how much are miura's and 246 Dino's going for in the UK and how rare and what condition are they mostly in?

He is going to experience some gorgeous countryside for sure. This goes right by my house!!. The landscape of where I am is one of the reasons I love Northwest Jersey so much! From the link to the site go to maps, and look at map 4 hamburg PA to poughkeepsie NY, I am literally right outside of Stokes states Forest and High point. I should follow the progress and meet up with him there!

Ugh, one of those type shops :devious: If you give Vb a call 1-800-255-0088 they should be able to advise you if the earlier line will work. The part number for the 70-72 line is 64-664 and the later one for the 78 is 64-678. Note, the later pipe is 43.95 so hopefully you can get away with the 8.75 one,

Victoria british has one listed titled as "BMC to Brake switch pipe" however it;s only listed for the 78 280 in the 73-78 section. They did list however for 70-72 the same part for 8.75. I can'imagine that other than the bend that it is any differant and that would work, however I have never owned a 240 only 260 and 280's so maybe someone else could advise. honestly other than the bend, I'm confident you could use that one or make one yourself with a straight piece of brake line and a tubing bender.

thats what I figured. thanks bambi

well the braking issue could be caused by warped rotors. stepping on the brakes with this situation would transfer the shimmy to the steering wheel. Have you removed the wheel and grease hub to check the nut that holds the hub assembly together? Should have a cotter pin through the castlelated nut and the nut should be snug but not tight enough to inhibit wheel rotation. Some other things I would be going through are the bushings on the control arm, sway bar, strut tower bolts, ball joints tie rod ends, the through bolts for the front cross member, even the steering coupler.

MSA and victoria british both have what you need. check the links section on this site also as well as do a search on the site.

was going through some old catalogs I have laying around and I did happen to buy a floor kit many moons ago from these guys. Did they sell all their Z stock and are strictly Porsche now?