LeonV

Give me a shout (send a PM) if you're coming through SF and need to get your Z fix. I'm in San Bruno.

Yes, "really". In fact, you already know why. As you stated, steady state power is unchanged. Steady state power is power to the wheels. This does not change whether you're accelerating or not, you don't magically make more power under acceleration than at steady state! Your statement is akin to saying, "I took the spare tire out of my Z which allows my engine to deliver more power to the wheels." Is that true? Rotational inertia is an "effective" weight, meaning decreasing 5lb from your flywheel does not alter performance the same as taking that 5lb out of the body, but it has a similar effect which can be quantified with an "effective" weight (e.g. 5lb off the flywheel is like taking 20lb off the car - not real numbers, I made those up). Power is a function of torque and RPM (not the time-rate of change of RPM), i.e. it is independent of acceleration. To sum this up, just because the car accelerates faster does not mean there is any more power available at the wheels. We now circle back to my original statement, "lowering rotational inertia does not put any more power to the wheels."

Had an awesome freeway encounter today! I drove my 260Z to work for the first time in a few weeks since it's been pretty wet lately. As I was heading up 101 North in San Rafael (Northern Bay Area), I saw a very original-looking brown 240Z, down to the wheel caps. Behind the wheel was an older gentleman and a co-pilot, who I can only assume is his wife. Gave them a honk, smile and a thumbs up and got the same (minus the honk) in return. Made my day!

More like Porsche 935...

Rob, look up "Primadonna Z". It actually started life as an apartment parking lot project in San Bruno!

Exhaust systems don't just get "plugged". TPS is my first thought, vac leaks seem unlikely from his description, a stock EFI Z won't idle smoothly at all if there's a leak large enough to hinder WOT operation that much. RT, have you washed the engine bay lately or been in a downpour? Water can screw with the TPS, even if it's adjusted correctly. Follow Captain's advice and download the FSM and EFI guide.

Nice! It's definitely not a job for the faint of hear but perseverance will get it done.

Lowering rotational inertia does not put any more power to the wheels.

What's the reason for swapping the 260Z unit out?

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/suspension/rearend/index.html Bookmark this site: http://atlanticz.ca/index.php/tech-tips.html Then thank Blue for his "Tech Tips".

You've already got one?

Julio, I completely agree. Just adding some extra info...

A driveshaft doesn't have much rotational inertia to begin with. Since it's long and skinny, the location of the mass doesn't stray far from the axis of rotation.

I'm with Blue, venturi misalignment was my first thought as well. Follow the given advice and report back.

The thing I'd worry about with an Al caliper is deformation, especially with a large brake load applied at high temperatures. The dimensions of something like a Z-car Sumitomo caliper are based on the properties of steel. Was there any structural analysis done on the Al calipers? Any strenuous track testing?

I've got dyno evidence and analysis in the exhaust thread linked earlier. The dual pipes didn't perform as well as the single BUT I changed the exhaust manifold when I went to duals so it's not exactly apples-to-apples. I plan to do a single down the road and test it against the duals, keeping the manifold constant. I suppose I could also re-install the stock manifold and mate it to the current pipes...

Glad to help!

Setting your brakes in the wet will get the proportioning right but only for wet conditions! In order to "set and forget" brake proportioning, it must be set in the highest grip scenario. Setting your brake distribution in the wet will cause the rears to lock-up prematurely in the dry. That is a dangerous setup. The physics behind it have to do with decreased weight transfer in lower-grip situations. Less weight transfer means more weight on the rear axle, thus you need more rear bias in the wet. This extra rear bias then locks up the rears early in dry situations where there is more weight transfer to the front axle, leaving less weight on the rear.

Agreed. Performance-wise, #3 has an edge (weight & packaging) but #1 should work just as well. #2 is more restrictive and you will lose power (and torque) compared to the bigger pipes. You can find an extensive exhaust discussion here, with both theoretical and empirical data: Exhaust Thread That thread pertains not only to the L-series, but to most any other 2- and 4-stroke engine.

A "bouncy" ride means you are very underdamped. However, I think you'll find that the Tokicos are a lot stiffer but definitely not bouncy when combined with Eibachs.

BTW, stop by when you're in town!

My most important trip item is the AAA card! I also carry a spare alt/water pump belt in the glove box and I've noticed my slave cylinder has a tendency of going out (stupid, cheap Napa SC). I make sure to have basic tools on hand, like wrenches, screwdrivers, shears and maybe a socket set. Oil, water, spare parts, etc. are good to have just in case, but a cell phone and roadside service will put me at ease. Oh, and don't forget duct tape.

It will not improve performance. Read Braap's EFI guide on HybridZ.

Wow, that's a cool idea!

Nice, Rob! Keep us updated.