LeonV

I'll be there with some friends at one of the days, haven't decided yet. Glenn is a member here, he goes by spitz17.

Not sure I recall but I can deduce from context. No problem ?

Those are just 2.5" springs with universal 2" collars and DP Racing camber plates. You can save a few bucks sourcing the parts separately. You will have to modify your strut housings, there are lots of threads on HybridZ about strut sectioning and building your own coilovers. I have the same camber plates. They're great if you don't want to cut up your strut towers but they limit adjustability to just the 4 settings (plus a few more if you get creative).

That's a good question. If you can gain access to the damper shaft, put a zip tie on it and see how high it goes. A spirited drive should definitely not bottom-out the suspension. that's not the design case for max suspension travel. Instead, find a road(s) in your area that has potholes, expansion joints, dips, etc. to test travel on.

Not recommended, your springs will need to be stiffer to make up for the lost travel and avoid harsh bottoming-out of the suspension. Sounds like a lot of work for little gain, just buy some lowering springs or shorter top mounts as mentioned.

https://www.rhdjapan.com/search/engine/nissan_fairlady-z_s30-l28-09-1975-07-1978/model/nissan_fairlady-z/car/nissan/brands/kameari/category/cylinder-head-and-valvetrain_valves I'm sure you can also contact an L-series engine specialist to get what you need...

The 123 has its own built-in ignitor, you can leave the transistor unit unplugged in the car but it will be redundant. Do not wire your distributor through your OE transistor unit, that won't work. You need a coil with a primary resistance >1ohm. You're measuring secondary resistance. The stock tach will work fine as it's triggered off of the coil (-), not the transistor unit. The 123 unit is simple to install. Just wire it in per their diagram and use the proper coil. That's it.

I don't know why Nissan or Bob Sharp did what they did. I'd be very interested to hear about their design process. Pete Brock was in town this past weekend but unfortunately I was away...

Poor phrasing on my part. There's no other reason *besides packaging* and/or sound to split the pipes. Here's an in-depth thread on exhaust design: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/81941-exhaust-tube-sizing-i-did-your-arithmetic-for-you/

There certainly is a "better" if we can agree that better means more torque. Joining all the cylinders increases the scavenging effect (dropping pressure at the exhaust port of the next cylinder), thus increasing volumetric efficiency which is directly proportional to torque. The effect is tuned with some thought behind pipe lengths, collector locations, etc. The physics remain the same, whether you have 6 individual pipes or just one. Sound, look, personal taste, that's all subjective and a perfectly good reason to choose what you like.

Like I said previously, twin 2.5" pipes have the same cross-sectional area as a single 3.5" pipe. You can route and tuck up the 2.5" pipes closer to the body than the 3.5". There's really no other reason to split the pipes in two all the way to the back of the car, other than sound.

What I meant by the word "packaging" in my previous post was how the exhaust packages on the car (not in a box for shipping) as the prime reason for going twin pipes instead of a larger single.

There are many inputs that go into designing an exhaust system, packaging being a major part of that. Two smaller pipes package better than one big one, simple as that. e.g. dual 2.5" pipes have the same cross-sectional area as a single 3.5" pipe (notice I don't say "flow"...) Also, "true duals" are missing out on the scavenging effect that combining all pipes brings, however small or large that effect may be for a given application.

1. Not if you use the right tools 2. Probably 3. Yes I've run up to .230" lash pads in stock retainers and currently run .190-.200" without issue. A valve guide issue is plausible and can be checked if you pull your springs/retainers out and wiggle the valves.

What a fun and memorable day it was, thanks for letting me tag along! It's definitely reignited some Z-passion and makes me want to do some actual work to the Z again. I was very impressed by your vision for the car and how it's changed other people's thoughts for how to do a Z "right". I'm looking forward to some cruises in the coming weeks to stretch her legs a bit!

Looks great, coming together nicely! Looking forward to a run up to Alice's when the keys are back in your hands.

Wow, great write-up Ben! I'm flattered and honored. You've summed up perfectly my direction with the car, I think we're both on very similar wavelengths with this. I really enjoyed the line about car people being like migrants from another country, that's really what it feels like. Strangers reunited for the first time. You have the passion flowing through your veins and that motivates me, whether it's having that extra patience to sooth the baby to sleep or to finally make time to put that limited slip in. I was very impressed with your 2.5-year-old son's ability to identify every piece of construction equipment and many cars he saw on our walk the other day, he's an inquisitive kid and you're doing it right by feeding his curiosities. I'm very much looking forward to seeing your 260 in action. Long live the Z!

Hey Ben, just caught up on this thread, loving the project. Rob's awesome, I love his passion and authenticity. You're in good hands and I'm looking forward to see how it turns out! We moved to Burlingame 3 months ago, have a period-ish resto-modded 260Z, and I'm typing this with my 2-week-old son in my lap so I'm enjoying the serendipity of this moment. Also, let me know where I can find a pair of seats like that.

What on Earth is a digital watch?

Ah. it's a 280ZX. I believe the tagline from Nissan was, "born to be a parts car".

Your main circuit should not have even activated without emulsion tubes, i.e. it would've been running lean, not rich. Sounds like some tuning is in order.

Such is the problem with tuning the SUs, they only have one circuit. You're either going to have to live with creating lots of NOx due to the lean mixture, compromise by setting the mixture nut richer, or get new needles.

Your stuff will come in the mail. ZONC is an "old school" club full of very nice people, you didn't get screwed.

I can't seem to find a problem in your description. What is the mixture at WOT?