Marty Rogan

Bart, Like Zmefly said, you won't gain any HP with a header (unless you really build up the engine), it will only make it louder and headers tend to rust. Exhaust systems bought from MSA or similar place never seem to fit quite right. I suggest you go to a good muffler shop and have one custom bent for you. It will fit better, you don't have to go through the agrivation of getting rust in your eyes, and it might be cheaper in the end. I kept the stock manifold, had 2 1/4 pipes custom bent, ending with a nice turbo muffler. this was about 4 years ago, but I believe it cost me $126. The car breathes much better, sound agressive, without being obnoxious. Well, that's my two cents worth. Marty

If you removed the distributor shaft when you swapped everything, you may have reinstalled 1 or 2 teeth off. I tooks my engine apart to put all new seals in it. I had it one tooth off and it would not start. Corrected that and it started right up. Good luck, Marty

Here's one that been for sale for a long time. Not sure if its still available though. I think he is in Florida. http://zdriver.com/classifieds/rides/viewitem.php?cat=&relIdx=10&item=10315 It is an L28 with triples. And hey, it's yellow! Looks like the car you just sold! If you don't mind me asking, what did you get for your car? I keep toying with buying another 240 and have been watching prices closely. They seem to be all over the board. Marty

I thought you were selling your 240? Did you sell it and now have seller's remorse? Marty

Hi Burt, I might be interested in the wheels and hubcaps. Send me a private message with the price you want for them. Pictures of the caps would be nice if you have a digicam. You can also email me directly at: marty.rogan@motorola.com Thanks, Marty

Hi Burt, Do you still have the original tires that came off the car? Those were the ones it came from the factory with, right? Do you want to sell them? Marty

Just be careful that you get an "AGREED UPON VALUE POLICY". An Agreed Upon Value Policy is one where you both agree on the value to be paid in advance of a claim. Do not confuse this with a stated value policy. On those, they will charge you premiums on what you state as the value, but will look at book vlaues on the car when you go to make a claim. As always, READ THE FINE PRINT on how they actually pay out on a claim. Remeber, most insurance claims agents are there to settle for the lowest possible amount. By the way, I have a little known Classic Agreed Upon Value Policy with State Farm. It costs me about $40 for 6 months, and they will pay me $9K if my Z is totalled. Good luck! Marty

Hey DatsunZguy, What kind of clear did you use? Was it more like polyurethae for wood, or a clear coat paint? When I did mine, I used a clear coat paint. It went on real thin and not very smooth. After several coats of painting and light sanding, it looked pretty good, but not up to my usual standards. I really would hat to strip it an start over though. any suggestions? Marty

Mr. Peabody, You should know us by now! We want details!!! Tell us all about your new toy. What is has, the mileage, what has been done to it, where you found it and what it cost. Congrats! Looks nice from the photos, except maybe for that malignant thing growing out the back. Marty

I too had the one dim headlight syndrome. The cure may be even simpler than others suggested. First off, I would instll a brand new fuse. But, before you install the new fuse, pinch the mounting contacts toward each other. They get loose over the years. I pinched my contacts together and the problem went right away! So, I did that with each fuse holder, and have had no problems since. Marty

In addition to getting the tension correct on that big bolt, there may be another issue at fault in the first place. The pulley is kept from spinning on the bolt by a key slot, that I belive goes into the crank. If the key slot retainer pin breaks and falls out, the pulley can spin. I would suggest you remove the pulley and make sure the key slot retainer is still there. If it is missing, you should be able to get one from the dealer. Good luck, Marty

ZSled, Sounds like you got one of those once in a life time deals. I am jealous!!! ITs seems that your car could have been worth 2-3 times what you paid for it. As someone has said the year makes a difference in how rare a colored interior is. Of all of the colored interiors that I have encountered, I have seen red the most. Usually a white car with a red interior. Well, enjoy the Z, they truly are great cars. And this is a great club for info. You might want to consider signing up for the email list too for more info on 240Z issues that members are dealing with on a daily basis. Marty

Welcome Zsled, Interior colors is an area that I am interested in also, but have not been able to find any real documentation on it. I have a 70, with a blue interior, and I was told that blue was the second most rare color. It is cool to have a rare color, but it is a real bite trying to find parts. I have been looking for a new blue OEM drivers door panel for 4 yrs now. From what I have gathered, I think the order of rarity goes something like this: White Blue Tan Red Black By the way, I was in Seattle on October 28 and wanted to go look at that car. I was informed that it had just been sold. Now we know who got it!!! The pictures look pretty good. And you said it only have rust on the back ledge and that is it? What is the rest of the car like: milage, interior, paint, etc.? It sounded like a steal for $900. Marty

Carl, You said that you can install the sender without have to remove the tank. I need to check the wiring at the sender, since my guage stopped working. I looked under their yesterday and could not even see the thing. How do you get to it? Thanks, Marty

Thanks Daniel. I have a spare gas guage. Maybe, I'll hook that up to see what happens. If it read fine, then it probably will be the contact problem you describe. That is if that one isn't old and cruddy too! Looks like a deep dive into the dash is in order. Thanks, Marty

I have been reading this post with interest. My gas guage was not too bad until recently, it completely lost its mind. At first it showed 3/4 when it was full, like someone else mentioned. Then it began oscillating back and forth, at about 1/4 tank increments. It just kept moving as you drove. Later one it just quit all together and showed pegged to empty. It comes back to life once in a while, but I can't trust it at all. To find the wires coming through the floor, do you have to take the rear, inside plastic finish panel off? To check the sender, do you have to drop the tank? TIA, Marty

Does Dashboard Resorations work exactly match the factory shape and texture of the vinyl? Do they make a distinction between the early and late 240Z designs, or do you only get the later design, like if youordered a new dash from Nissan? TIA, Marty

The color is Datsun Blue. If you want to get an exact match, contact Les or Dennis at Clsic Datsun Motorsports: http://www.classicdatsun.com/ This did some of the restored 240's for Nissan's Z Store Program. They sell it in rattle cans of heat resistant paint. It is isn't cheap if I recall, but this is as correct as it gets. Marty

Forget WD-40. That stuff rarely works. Buy some Kroil. This stuff is really amazing. I have used it on really rusted bolts, like on an exhaust down pipe and they loosen right up if you let it sit overnight. I liked it so much, I bought a gallon of it! Here is there website: http://www.kanolabs.com/ Good luck, Marty

Hey Ken, Are those dimensions ID or OD? How did you deal with the one hose that has a severe bend? I will probably be dropping my tank this winter. Thanks, Marty

Derk, Sorry, I don't have a digi-cam. The blemish is pretty minor though. As far as the show goes, it will be the biggest ZCar show in the Midwest this year. They are expecting 100+ cars. It will be held at the Indy Speedway, with an all Z parade lap, and the new 350Z. I don't know if there will be any vendors or people selling parts. There weren't any last year, but they are improving the show each year. I have a 3 hour drive and definitely think it is worth it. Only you can decide if 4 hours is worth it to you. If you go, look for me with the dark blue 70 Z in the stock class. Marty

Derk, I see that you are in Southern Indiana. I am in chicago and will be going to the Show in Indy on 8/17. I have a dash out of 72 in my basement. It was 1 minor impection at the very forward lip where it meets the metal strip around the window. It is a crack about 3/4" X 1/4". If you have a late 71, you coul swap parts over with not much trouble. I would let it go for $350. If you are intersted, I could bring it to the show and meet you there. Marty

My dash lights and tail light went out the other night. It turns out that it is the dreaded fused box melt down on the inner fuse holder prongs on that circuit. The plastic has melted to the point where I can't get a good connection any more. I bought a spare fuse box a while back in case this happened. My car is a 1970, HLS30-05341 blt 6/70. I always thought that the 70 model had the short pigtail wires. When Iwent to put the spare in I found the original one with the long pigtail wires. Well I guess I have 2 choices: 1) fix the old one, anyone have a methods of fixing these???; or 2) find another long pigtail fuse box. Anyone out there have a really mint long pigtail fuse box, they would trade for a really mint short pigtail box? TIA, Marty