Marty Rogan

Daniel, The guy said he was located in Eastern NC, (near Moorehead City?) about 1 1/2 hours East of Raleigh. He is stationed at a Marine Base there, didn't catch the name of it. I can only go by what he told me. I can get more info though. Does that sound anywhere near you? Marty

Daniel, So this this is just trial and error anyway? There is no way to get it accurate, BEFORE you put it in and fill it up? Marty

Kroil is some really amazing penetrating oil. It is about 100 times better than WD-40. I have removed rusty manifold bolds easily with this stuff. So how do you go about adjusting the sender unit? It has been broke, so I don't know how much gas is in there. I know it is not alot, since I was keeping an eye on how many miles I had driven. Marty

While I've go the entire suspension out, I am replacing the fuel sending unit that stopped working. They wires were corroded and one broke off while trying to remove it. Strange way they had that attached! The other wire just appeared to be soldered on. Anyway, everything is rusty and crusty down there. Soked it with Kroil, but the reatining ring does not want to turn. It does seem pretty thin. Do you see any problem with just bending it under the tabs to remove it? I have all brand new parts anyway. TIA, Marty

I am looking into buying a 240Z that is located near Moorhead City, NC, about 1 1/2 hours east of Raleigh. Anybody out there live close to there, that could check it out for me? OR maybe know of a good Z Specialty Shop there? If this one does not pan-out, there is another one near Charlotte, SC that sounds interesting. TIA, Marty

Sounds easy enough. What kind of oil do you use? Marty

Escanlon, Well, time wise, I was under there 2 years to replace the master clutch cylinder. Miles wise, it was about 2,000 miles ago. I suppose I could have bumped the cable or pulled on it, but it has not really been a problem till recently. So what is the best way to lube the cable? Thanks, Marty

Carl, Did you get your brake lines from Classictube yet? Are they just like OEM, with the same 10 MM fittings? In removing my suspension this weekend, both of the rear brake lines from the center of the car to the rubber hoses broke off. Thanks, Marty

Well the last time I drove the Z (70 240Z) the speedo went spastic on me. When you tromp the gas, the needle bounces wildly up and down. Once you get to a cruising speed it settles down some and bounces in about a 10 MPH span. Any ideas on this one? TIA, Marty

Victor, Long ago, I contacted a supplier in OZ to inquire about getting one. As I recall, he could get me used one, for a very high price. Can't remember exactly, but I think it was over $100. IT would be a great idea to do a 1 for one swap with someone from down under, so you would not have to deal with exchange rates. Just a thought. I don't think I want one now though. Marty

I bought the exact same keys for my 70 240Z. The one with the paint works the doors, hatch, and glove box. The odd one does the ignition only. Just an interesting side note, when I had these old key blanks cut, the guy had a hard time doing it because the metal was much harder than the modern keys he is used to cutting. Marty

Hi Victor, Yours is the first 240Z that I have seen with a stock mirror on the right hand side. Is that a standard mirror mounted on that side, or did you get your hands on a RHD mirror from accross the pond somewhere? Marty

axler8, It interesting how well that program works. Of course I am partial to the blue!!! I also really like a 240Z in Guards Red. My first Z was Guards Red, with Gold Pearl in the clear coat. It also had Panasports with gold anodized center. That car looked fantastic. When the sun hit an arched area of the body, it would shine gold. Just food for thought. Marty

My 70 Z is painted similar color. I believe the PO called it Ford Midnight Blue. I get a lot of compliments on it at shows. The original color was 903 Blue, which is really nasty looking compared to this. I can see the original color by the spare tire well. Marty

Hi All, I am looking into buying another Z on Saturday. This one is an early 71 with a stock L24. The owner did a compression test which showed these results: From back to front: 135, 150, 140,145, 150, 150. Of course, I plan to do my own test to confirm. I looked all through my Haynes and FSM and could not seem to find the stats on minimum acceptable compression. I know you want compression in each of the holes to be within 10% of each other. Five out of six look good. Is the 135 at or below the minimum, and do you think that is something to be concerned with? Looking forward to your opinions. TIA, Marty

Hey Rick, Thanks for the website. I am new to this though. Might pick up a 71 for autocross on Saturday. What do you recommend (or use) for harnesses. I know that you want something witha crotch strap. Are the G-Force brand units on the website good equpment. What about Sparco or Simpson? I would also appreciate recommendations on a roll bar and helmet. Best brands (models) and where to get them. Thanks, Marty

Hi all, Do any of you Z guru's live in the Dallas/Ft. Worth Area? I am interested in a 72 that is in South Ft. Worth and was wondering if anyone would be willing to check it out for me? If you didn't have the time, or maybe mechanical expertise, could you recommend a competent, trustworthy Z Shop in the area? TIA, Marty You can contact me directly at: marty.rogan@motorola.com

Korg_geek, NGK's are pretty common. Check your local parts places and save the shipping costs. Marty

Victor, You read my mind! I was going to ask you to post a picture. I think they look fantastic. But if you were entered in the stock class at a show, you would probably lose points. For the custom class they would be great! Marty

I bought some ffrom MSA a couple of years ago and am not real happy with them. The pattern is close to the original but not exact. They are missing the "grain" that was in the center portion of the seat on the originals. I visited Classic Datsun Motorsports when I was in CA last year. They restored many of the Nissan 240Z Program Cars. Theirs are the closet to original that I am aware of. Here's their website: http://www.classicdatsun.com/ Marty

Ok, I understand. Just wondered if putting less load on the engine would affect the compression reading. Marty

I'll definitely will go with the screw in type kit, as I will want to be able to do this myself. Someone said that you should take out all 6 spark plugs for the test? I would have thought you would only do one at a time. Also, I have understood that you should not have more than a 10% difference between the highest and lowest reading. Is there a bottom level reading where you would you should not go below, even if all six are relatively even? TIA, Marty

I would like to buy a compression tester. What should I look for in a tester? Are there a couple of brands that are better than others? Where is a good place to buy one? What is the thread pitch and size for the spark plug hole? Send along any other info that you would think helpful. I have seen it done a couple of times, but did not get a good look at the tools. TIA, Marty

Mason, Is that car in San Jose?? Being sold by a Chinese/Japanese guy? Does it have damage on the drivers front? If that is the one, the damage alone will cost you $1,500 to fix and then another $2,500 for paint. That is a lot of money on top of a kinda high price. The rest of the car seemed pretty clean though. Well, that's just my opinion, but I would try to get the price lower. good luck, Marty

I am going out of town on vacation next week. I can't remeber how to shut off the mailing list. I want to put an out of office notice on, but don't want the list to get a reply everytime someone posts a message. Mike? Anyone??? TIA. Marty