Diseazd

It’s not just the gear box that determines the hubcap, it’s all of the other items in a supposed Series 1 or transition to Series 2 Z IMO. Most Series 1 cars had the ashtrays and cig lighters forward of the gear shift, they had angular half shafts and early trannys. The very early cars had 240Z on the roof quarters and vents in the tailgate. Later so called transition Z’s had no vents in the tailgate and picked those vents up on the roof quarters, but all other early features mentioned above stayed (early tranny, ash tray location, angular half shafts, cig lighter etc.) I assume all early Z’s and transition Series 1 Z’s had D hubcaps, but just my guess……Carl Beck @Carl Beckmay be able to add info or @kats @jfa.series1 @HS30-H I would be very interested to know if the transition Z’s (later 71) were considered Series 1 or Series 2? I assume that they wore D hubcaps if they had the early tranny, console and other early items that they came with D caps…….but are the transition Z’s 1’s or 2’s? Anyone?

Wildwoods are a fairly straight forward bolt on. They work well with my stock brake master cylinders too.

Great product, great price, great service!

Good question. I asked Jim Frederick the same question because I have an early 71 also. He said if it’s got an early (monkey motion) transmission, it had D hubcaps. Mine has early transmission, angular half shafts, early ash tray etc. No vents in the tailgate and no 240Z on the back roof vents, but if he’s correct, it came with D hubcaps. Anyone agree or disagree?

Very cool…..will you replace the early crank with a fully balanced crank when you do the rebuild? They are easy to find and cheap. Can’t wait to see this transformation.

Chuck’s frame shop in Richmond, Virginia is terrific…..a perfectionist that has done many Z’s and Porsches. Here are a couple he did for me.

IMHO, seems to me if you sent those carbs off to Z Therapy to install new floats and valves it would be a cheap fix to know it’s done right. Just kind of sounds tricky to start modifying floats by drilling and screwing stuff in them. Why God created money. Power Brake Exchange built a couple boosters for me…..beautiful work.

Isky performance springs have deep valve spring retainer pockets. If you use any lash pads less than about .140’s, they will hit the retainers. It looks like you have two different size lash pads. Lash pads should sit high like the .175’s you show. You shouldn’t have to modify anything if you use thicker lash pads.

You can remove all rockers but one. Remove all spark plugs. Turn the engine over by hand. Get the right lash pad to center the wipe pattern on that rocker and the rest should be close.

Just my opinion, but I’d work with lash pads and adjustment before I’d pull that head. This is my Stroker with Isky Stage III cam and the same valve springs as you. .160 lash pads centered my wipe patterns. Check my valve numbers….zoom in to read em. Definitely check wipe patterns before starting.

Some jobs should be left to the professionals……

You are correct. I remember building early L series engines using the later (73) pistons…..all that was available. The pistons would come out if I recall fifteen thousands of an inch. The books call for sixty thousands of an inch clearance. OK with the open chamber head but closer with the early E88 and E31 heads. They worked with the early heads, but it made you wonder. 🤞

Stock head……surprised at how much fun it was to drive. Won’t compete with my other Z’s, but much better performance than I was expecting.

A lot of money and a lot of work to get the P79 head right. I have a 73 with the late E88 head that is a lot of fun to drive. It’s running early SU’s and has a nice toned exhaust. With the small displacement and the costs associated with the modded head, I’d go back with the E88 head. Just MHO.

You can have your shifter modified to work.

Resurrected Classics has the new 3 piece set listed for $350.00. They guarantee their products. I’ve bought 3 sets of hub caps from them and they are “perfect”.

Isky recommends .175 inch lash pads for the Stage III .490 lift camshaft. I always center the wipes and have found .160 to .170 inch pads work with the Stage III cams.

Like everyone has said before…….you must be at TDC of the compression stroke…..lobes up. My guess is if the car has been running in the past, and hasn’t been taken apart since, your distributor is probably correctly oriented. Looks like you are 180 degrees out……TDC exhaust stroke. Set it TDC compression stroke and your rotor should be pointing approximately toward the little mark on your distributor cap (number 1). Then if you follow the timing firing order going counter clockwise, you should be running and driving.

You’ve made your point @dutchzcarguy. However, you guys “Don’t know your arse from a hole in the ground!” 😂 A Finn Struggling with English !!!.mov

Here’s a quick look at that head. https://share.icloud.com/photos/0cdSGhHLbHmLHyOdED8S4286A

zKars 1,914 Replied: February 24 How’s it going? Good to hear from you. All the brake line fittings are M10x1.0 including the one ones on the bottom of the master. The lines them selves are 3/16 tubing. I use the copper nickel line and buy it from thestopshop.com, usually through Amazon. Jim @zKars and @Patconrecently helped me get the materials to do the job right. Make sure you use or order the M10x1.0 fitting on the copper nickel tubing. You can buy a bender or carefully bend em by hand. I had my machine shop make me a couple that I bent into shape. You can also buy straight lines already made in different lengths and bend those. You need to make sure they are square to the female receiver to make a secure leak free joint.

This is the tool I use to pull the retaining clip, pull out the clevis and put both back in. It’s a life saver! BTW, it a fishing hook degouger

Resurrected Classics shows rear bumpers for $375.00. I think they are in Georgia too.