billcapp

Just sorry to point out that all the links don't work on that site. Any idea of pricing in the 17 inch range?

I guess in all fairness I should at least try to help more than that. I would recheck the mounting bolts and by all means make sure there is gear oil in the diff.

I assumed you have checked for foreign objects (such as Oakland Raider players) being stuck in a tire. GO BUCS!!!!!!!!!!

Good point 2Many. I would surely hope any one performing this task would have the sense to always clean parts of foreign matter and to grease when appropiate before reinstalling. It has been my fetish to spend almost as much time prepping by cleaning before doing the actual work. I have it so bad that I clean and degrease thoroughly even before starting to disassemble anything in the engine compartment. A clean job is a good job!

In case you didn't know, rocker panels are available at several places to replace. It's much easier with the preformed panels. Some other sheetmetal is available also. I"d say go for it! Even a rusty Z is better than no Z.

Well the seller sure doesn't know the real value of rare. With the hole in the roof all value goes out the window. Even the hood isn't stock along with the wheels, interior. paint ETC.

I purchased an airdam designed by the Paul Newman race team very soon after I bought my 240 in 1980. I absolutely prefer it over the stock pan. While driving I10 in California I had the opportunity to do a little speed test in the open desert. At about 110 MPH I noticed the air dam start to push down on the front end. At about 130 the car was runnin' sweet. There was no front end lift at all. The car was cruising like it was made for that speed.....hummin' along. I will never forget the feeling; it was like flying a jet at ground level. Airdam for SURE! I still have the very same airdam, but have had to repair it several times due to miscalculating high parking curbs. I wouldn't want any other although MSA sells similar units.

I don't know why you wouldn't consider a rebuild kit for the master. They are available at a very reasonable cost ($10) US. When the master begins giving problems, it is usually the rubber seals becoming worn. Not too likely the inside walls of the master wearing very much (even at 30 years old). Hope this opens another avenue to repair.

The website mentioned by gunner Rob has nothing related to padding...they list epoxies, waxes, fillers, coatings and cleaners as their products (uschem).

Just another note! My Z (manufactured 10/71) has the vertical wiring on the original hatch.

Just a note about the electric fan...make sure the power to the fan is run through a relay from the battery. The relay solves alot of electrical problems.

OK all right I'd be glad to go for a fifth (hic)....have a happy one guys!

Well I bought one from Victoria's Secret... ???VB actually, and was not impressed. It came in warped and the cutouts didn't line up with the dash guages very well. I had to enlarge the cut-outs am and still pondering the warp at the two center console legs that pass by the radio. I'm afraid to try heat and ruin it further. :disappoin

hOW ABOUT SOME PHOTOS WHEN YOU CAN?

Datsun76: Which make is your dam and where did you get it? Is the "faux" bumper reinforced in the back (ie does it give any protection in a small bump?) and does it just bolt on to the bumper brackets?

Hey kmack Nice looking plate!

check your ballast resistor

It should work just fine.

First thing I would do is to look under the dash to the left of the blower motor on the passenger side. There the valve controlling the heat resides. Make sure the valve lever moves as you move the control. Sometimes the wire inside the control cable will loosen in its captive holder located in front of the valve or in the locking screw barrel at the valve. If these instructions aren't clear ask again

One thing to not overlook, is the valve next to the heater core. Make sure it doesn't leak either (check the carpet for a wet spot). If it does leak it may draw in air as the coolant cools down, making it appear the coolant level at the radiator is still normal. The air will have a tendancy to block the water flow also. Do use the 160 thermostat if you are in NC. Hope this info is useful.