zKars

Bigger hammer! Do NOT damage the end of the stub axle or the threads whatever you do. Which makes it hard to use a bigger hammer of course. I thread the nut back on reversed, to leave the flanged end out, put it on all the way (all threads engaged), then use a chunk of wood between the hammer (2 lb) and the stub end. Check that the nut still threads off easy with each blow to check for damage. Otherwise it will cost you at LEAST a 18 x 1.5mm tap... The "official" technique is to use a slide hammer to pull it out from the wheel flange side. You'll need a press to remove and replace the outer bearing from the stub once its out. One of my favorite jobs! Hope you have a 250 ft-lb torque wrench too!

Ok, I'll help. I describe the mounting differences The mounting to the car varies by year. 240 seats have studs that mount through holes in the floor supports. You attach with nuts. 280 seat all use bolts through the track frames that go into trapped nuts in the floor supports. 77-78 seats have different rear mount locations, they have vertical bolts, earlier 280 rear frames have angled tabs at the rear, and the bolts go in at ~15deg angle to horizontal. As far as 260 seat tracks go, I not sure if the early ones mount like 240 and later like 280, or if they are all 75-76 280 like. All seat bottoms from all years bolt to all the sliders. Its just getting the right sliders to bolt to your floor supports that counts. Hope that helps.

And still no one answers the poor man's question. There are two holes each side on the bottom of the rad support, about even with the inner fenders left and right, where the hooks mount.

no glue needed, just press it on. Squeeze the pinch a bit if you don't like how it stays in place. Make sure it fits the corners tightly as you put it on, not after its all on.

They are being made custom now by Brian (azcarbum) on hybrid. This is his site. http://www.zccjdm.com

Very common problem with "certain" cams. Send your stock Nissan cam to Delta Cam in Washington state for a regrind. The do a basic regrind for $75 bucks and rocker arm resurface for $3.75 each. I sent them two cams and 36 rockers and they did them for $3/ rocker and $55 per cam! Fantastic fast service, turned them around in about 4 days. Highly recommended. search for oil additives and recommendations and cam wear problems. Been discussed many times.

You didn't perchance plug the new harness into the turn signal/marker light 3-prong connector rather than the head light connector on one side did you? There should be no inter play with the turn signals! Either that or you have a very strange wiring issue with your switch..

That type of break is easily fixed with with a torch and the HTS 2000 welding rod. http://www.aluminumrepair.com. They are kinda pricy, but priceless for fixes like this. I have used them and love them! Think custom manifold creation...., repair that broken bolt hole in the corner on the front cover or head, that kind of thing is now childs play with HTS 2000 rods...

Assuming you are converting to a 4/5 speed from an auto, you need to place a want to buy add here for that pedal and any other bits you need for the swap. There is an excellent post here that details every little detail of the swap. Do a little searching... Adapting a zx pedal would indeed be a fabrication feat..

Blue is correct. And its not missing a nut. The threads are in the steering coupler that its currently screwed into. No nut needed.

Before you give up, reduce the spacer thickness to whatever the minimum is that you need and try them for a while. I'm sure you can do with a least half their current thickness without affecting their thermal properties much. You could even shave some off of the head side of the manifold to gain some more room.

Here I was hoping for a story about a real brake explosion! Still, useful info. Thanks...

The windshield washer pump is not mounted to the fender. It is attached to the bottom of the white plastic washer reservoir. Sounds like you have an aftermarket pump mounted in a convenient spot... You should likely amend your hunt to look for a new washer tank and stock pump if you want to retain originality.

There is a product called Plasti-dip (plastidip.com) that seems like a solution to recreate these tabs. Its marketed as a multi- purpose coating and looks great for this application. You just dip the part, dry, dip again, etc until the desired thickness is attained.

Nice work. Brake line flare kits are a crap shoot at best. I love the stuff from fedhillusa.com. their brake line is soft enough to form the S curve on the front brakes almost by hand and their flare machine is incredible. I have that junction block if you need one. Let me know.

Measure it with a chunk of 14-16 gauge wire snaked along its length. its 3/16 brake line with 10 x1.00 mm threaded brake line nuts. Any decent car parts shop has premade lines, just need one thats long enough and maybe a tubing bender.

While we at the "update the thread" trend, I have a far better solution if you are going to modify the stock linkage rather go cable (which is the best overall process for throttle improvement). if you are going to be welding anyway, just cut the tube that goes over the pin on the car in half, rotate it 45 deg and weld it back together. Use a drill bit the right size in the centre to align it while you weld it. Much simpler then cutting the arm off and using washers and such to reposition it with rotation. And the repair is nearly invisible. JMTC. Jim

Thanks guys, good advice as always. I'm going with the clean up, locktite sealer and just drive it in. What can go wrong?

Here is a question about an item not many will have experience with. Experienced engine builders please chime in! At the back of the block, the end of the drilled oil gallery has a plug inserted. Usually. The block I'm assembly at the moment came from the machine shop stripped, even this plug is removed. Good news, they supplied the replacement. Its a small round 3/8" dia. plug about 1/2 in long, with a 45 deg'ish chamfer on the end, over the last 1/8" or so. Clearly it just goes back in the hole. My question relates to how best to install that plug to ensure a decent seal. I'm pretty sure the chamfered end goes in first, but, then what? I know, I know, just pound it in until it stops moving and stop worrying. That's not me... The only reference I've found to it is in the "how to modify your Z engine" book, where they recommend tapping that bore and placing a pipe plug in there. That's easy enough to do, but I see no issue with just using the stock plug on this engine. It ain't mine! Other than cleanliness of hole and plug and all that, is there a proceedure any of you have used with known success to ensure this plug is oil tight? Its just never been something I've had to deal with in the past. It dumps right into the flywheel/clutch area so I'm gun shy. Thanks! Jim

Oliver at www.zspecialties.com has lots of parts cars. give him a call. He 's in Everett.

Gotta love the onion. Enough to make you cry....

Dude, you are totally sunk. She is setting you up for the big "Now that you have 4 of "those", I guess I am entitled to 4 of these!!" She will be holding up a jewerly, clothing or home improvement catalog. Run while you can

As Arne said, it depends on the fuel pump pressure. You'll have to measure the pressure before deciding if that "piece of magic" or something like it needs to stay. Those carbs can handle 4-5 psi max. depends on the condition of the needle and seats. BTW, the "filter-o-Reg" does not have a good rep....

Steve I'm pretty sure the overall fit is the same, other than the arm rest holes. Depending on the 280 year, the style of clips that attach it to the door changed to the round plastic ones from the steel ones we all hate. Its easy to tell, the later ones have holes that look like two circles, one large one small right next to each other, joined by a slot. Those plastic clips are easier to find too. I think you have a good idea there.