beandip

You are hi-jacking this thread . Post your question with a new thread

It is vary difficult to understand what you are doing. You are using different names for the parts and adjustments on these carbs. From what I have read and I think I understand , you have changed the float level in the carbs and raised the fuel level. If this is what you have done , you vary likely are dumping raw gas into the intake and flooding the engine. This would account for the rich smell of the exhaust. From there if you have altered the setting on the nozzles and needles then You most likely have everything out of adjustment. The video would be a good investment. These Carbs MUST be balanced one to the other. Both in air intake and fuel . If they are out of balance the engine will not run properly. Also if the mixtures of fuel and air is too lean you can likely burn the valves . Gary

I replaced my L-24 with a with a F-54 from a '82ZX and kept the round top SUs. Just as a information note. I have a Street cam milled head , headers and 2 1/2 exhaust. Not a big deal but I thought like you that because of these mods coupled with the added inches I would require different needles. I tried SMs, 47s , both of which were so rich I diluted the oil in the engine with unburned fuel. The engine ran strong though. I went back to the 54 needles that I was running with the old 240 engine and the engine runs just as strong. No more foul smelling oil and the mileage is decent. The plugs look great and I now have additional 9000+ miles on the engine since the swap and so far no problems. I did check the mixture with a color tune and all looked good. Gary what are extractors?

the balance tube is different and it looks like, in the second picture that it is one piece. Cast in with the front intake. What is the large opening in the top of it for ?

Didn't you notice the date of this thread? It's over 3 months old.

Lorea, Welcome to the club . I am a 240Z driver. You will find a depth of information on this site for all years of Z cars. If you access the search , for information , likely you will find what you are looking for. But please don't hesitate asking for help , information or in locating parts. Gary

Have a good look at the inner control arm bushings and the spindle pin bushings. Sounds like the bushings may have failed and allowing the control arm to shift forward when you accelerate and to the rear when braking. This would account for the right ''turn''when you accelerate. Gary

Luke, welcome to the club. We are hear to help if you have any questions or problems with your Z. Good to have you aboard. Gary

Do you have a uni-sun or a similar devise to balance the air flow in the carbs? You need to back out the air balance screws and the idle will come down . Once the air flow is balanced Then you will need to reset the fuel mixture adjustments. Now if the throttle shafts are badly worn and are leaking , you may have a problem with the fast idle issue. They need to be really loose though. I tried various richer Needles from the 54 stock needles and found them to be too rich. I am also running a 280 engine with a cam and headers as well as 2 1/2'' exhaust. The 54s work the best in my engine . I live near sea level . Gary

I recently came in position of some new products from Meguiar's . The paint on my Z is in vary good condition to start with . The clear has some slight surface scratches like you get from washing, that cant be helped. It had only been a month or so since I had waxed the car. I was cleaning the Z for a show for that afternoon and I did a stupid thing . I tried the new wax on half of the hood. I know. :stupid: Under the fluorescent lights in the garage , which show every little flaw, I could see a marked difference in the shine and finish. So I had to wax the whole car . To my surprise his took all of 20 min. ! I applied the wax over the entire car and let it dry completely, as per directions, then wiped off the dried wax with a new microfiber towel. 15 min. The result is the finish looks wet with a high shine. I am more than pleased . It is called NXT TECH WAX . Then that went so well I got on the phone and called Meguiar's 800 number about another product that I was given. QUICK INTERIOR DETAILER. This is silicone free as per the Tech on the phone. It is in a pump spray bottle. You just spray it on and wipe it off. There is no greasy film left. If fact I can not feel any film at all. It leaves the dash and door panels and even the Seats With as shine and it does not attract dust. And you wont slide out of the seats either. They are not slippery. Great products. I used the microfiber on this also. I don't know the long term effects , but I am vary pleased so far with both products. By the way my paint is 3+ years old or so. My interior is 34 years old and at the show I was asked if I had replaced the interior with new when I did the re-do. My Z has 299,987 miles on it. As of today .Gary

And your problem or question is ?

I used 3-M Black adhesive on the hatch seals nothing on the 1/4 glass . I had the windshield professionally done and I requested sealant. The only place I used silicone sealer is on the tail light gaskets and then only a light film. Personally I do not like silicone for my car especially where there is contact to the paint or interior. On my interior , dash , door panels , seats and such I use Meguiar's Quik interior detailer. It is great stuff and is silicone free! It cleans and leaves ZERO residue that attracts dirt. I even use it on the seats and it doesnt make them slippery and again no residue and a great shine. Gary:rambo:

I just used a small stainless steel wire brush , one of those just larger than a tooth brush. I just scrubbed the aluminum fins and in between them. This brightens the aluminum and retains the cooling capacity . They may dull in time and even get dirty . But I do drive my Z and I clean it. I guess if you have a show car or a trailer queen this would be different. Then looks are more important than function. The drums like the radiator you paint them and they will not cool as well. Gary

OK , you said it was running when you dropped the car off. So the carbs couldn't be out of the adjustment now. I say don't mess with all the stuff adjusting this and that you will have everything out of whack and you wont know where to turn. Start with the spark . Remove a spark plug wire and have someone turn the engine over and see if you have any good hot spark coming from the plug wire when you put it close to grounded metal. If nothing there then go to the coil wire and do the same and see if you are getting power from the main coil wire. If that is also dead then look to see if the wires going to the coil are connected and or have power . You should get 8 to 12 volts on the plus wire at the coil with the key on. You said the float bowls have fuel in them so the filter screens in the ''banjo'' fittings must be allowing fuel to flow. Even if they are partially blocked the engine has enough fuel to start and run. If your fuel line was blocked there would not be gas in the carbs . So the fuel rail is not at fault. Sounds to me like a ignition problem . Either there is a wire disconnected to the coil or ground off some where a loose wire to the compasiter in the dist. You did say you still have the old points dist. Right? . Gary

I used the same ones as sblake for all my interior . I used the polished stainless washers and stainless screws. I used the yellow size molly inserts in the holes and the screws spread the plastic inserts and provide the screws a purchase. Mine have held in place now for over 3 years. Not original I know but my color isn't either and my 240 has ZX engine . Gary

the last time I ordered the metal lines only one side was available from Nissan. Sorry I cant remember which side it was. The one I did receive was Part # 41230-E8710 I think this is the left side. Ditto on the tube wrench quality wise. Gary

If you use a spring compressor there would not have been this problem. Anyone replacing either Spindle pin bushing or inner control bushings . The factory says to torque them down when the car is resting on the wheels and under load . When I did mine I only put about a 100 lbs in the back as this was all I had. Gary

Thanks gary

Nissan still has the strap in stock and it comes with the ''chrome'' covers. Gary

I was surprised that there were no Zs . There was one 5 10 , but the class he was in he wasn't a factor. I don't know the Zs are classed and what they would be in competition with . I had fun on the parade lap on Sat. and was able to do a little ''spirited'' run through the chicane and festival turns . Sunday they stuck a Pace car right in front of me and I was forced to ''be good'' . 20 MPH on a race track is sacrilegious. Over all it was a great three day weekend. Gary

I agree with gnoise on the air horns and stock filter box. Now to the air filters. I am running a stock air box from a '72 with a K&N filter. I have used K&N filters for years and they seem to be doing all I can ask. The SUs stay clean and trouble free. Are they better than Longflo I don't have a clue. Summit has decent prices on the K&N's # E-2910 is the part number. Gary

So what would it take to have the car up and running. Would it be a runner if you went to a bone yard and bought a complete engine and dropped it in , got her up and running and sold the car. She looks like a clean good Z . Would it bring 3K or more? Then sell the leftover parts. If you are of the mind set to have it go away , don't build the car as how you wanted it when it was finished. Make it a good running , clean car and cash out of it. You can put all the period correct this and that in the car, and you already said H-4 headlights , and the red paint isn't stock either. If she is not completely stock, then she is modified, period. You cannot have it both ways. No one will care if you have gold plated carter pins. My 2cts. Gary

I am also, see you tomorrow. Gary

Send a PM to Carl Beck . He is a member here . He may be a good source for you. Do you have collectors insurance on the Z ? I hope! Gary

First Install the springs-struts up in the ''tunnel'' , then install the half shafts. As was stated the half shafts have some length movement, and they apparently are extended some. Just compress them until they fit and bolt them up.