beandip

All you need is a length of plastic tubing that will fit on the valve on the back of the wheel cylinder and the other end in a container that has some brake fluid in it. connect the one end to the cylinder and the other in the bottle so the end is below the surface of the B fluid. Open the valve and step on the brake peddle. push it all the way down and hold it for a couple of seconds, then allow the peddle to rise to the top. Repeat this about 3 times then refill the Master cylinder. Close the valve and move to the next wheel and do the same. You may need to repeat this again on each wheel . It all depends on how much air is in the system. If you do not allow the end of the hose to rise above the liquid in the bottle , no air will be able to return back to the cylinder. I have bled brakes for years doing it this way. Start at the wheel the farthest from the master . Gary:geek:

there are some differences , your '73 has intermittent wipers and a different wiring for the wiper washer part. You may find the colors of the wires are different. I used a '72 wire harness in my '73 and these differences caused some work with a multi meter . I still do not have intermittent wipers and the washer doesnt work but all else is right on. Gary

One thing that hasn't been mentioned is that you need to replace the transverse link with one that is curved . One from a '72 on. that is if you go with a R-200

I recommend that you use the search function . This has been done many times.

If you jack up the back end but block one wheel and turn the other , listen for the same noise? Have you tried to let the car idle in first gear with the back wheels off the ground ? Make SURE ,the car is blocked and don't rev the engine. Just listen for the noise and see if you can isolate the sound. This is with both wheels free to spin. Could be a bearing in the diff or even a Axel bearing . I had a u-joint make a clicking sound when it was going bad. ? Gary

If you look up in back of the moustache bar you will see the fill plug. There is a cheep little pump that is made for filling the out drive on a boat. It uses clear vinyl tubing and is a hand pump. About $5 or 6 bucks. I don't remember off hand how much the diff holds . Again it depends on weather it is a 180 or 200. Just pump in the differential lube until is starts to run out the fill hole. Then reinstall the plug . Gary

Could be a coil going out , or could be a fuel filter clogged and the engine is starving for fuel. What ignition are you using ? Sometimes when the things like coils and even spark plug wires get warm or hot they can fail.

The interior trim doesnt need to be removed. there are plastic rivets along the hatch sill that need to be pulled and most likely replaced then there are two clips , one on each end of the finisher along the bottom of it in line , about , with the tail light. The finisher slips straight into the clips, like a friction fit. Just mask off the tail lights , the finisher covers this area anyway. License plate light must also come off , two screws on the sill and then three on the light . The finisher is in three pieces , and I cannot remember if it is screwed down or not , but it is a straight forward thing to remove. You can mask off the license light and then you won't need to pull the inside trim. You might think of removing the bumper as well , it looks like the lower vallance is also painted black difficult to see in the picture. Gary

I have been using two different compressors during my restore/redo of my Z. My Son in law has a portable, Sears compressor that is rated at 9+ CFM at 90 psi , I believe, Could be bigger than that. I think he paid about $200.00 on sale. My own unit is the kind used by contractor's for nailers, the type with two small tanks . What I am getting at is. What are your intentions in the use of the compressor and your air tools. I am not a professional mechanic or body man. The larger unit I used , I found ample to run die grinders and a DA sander and what ever I wanted. Occasionally I did need to stop and let the unit recover with the more '' air hungry'' tools. It was just fine for painting my Z as well. If I were going to be doing this type of work on a daily basis I would definitely buy a commercial compressor. My little unit will run a impact gun, flat ratchet, and die grinder fine for occasional use now that my Z is done. As if they are ever done. When I was in construction I always bought the best tools I could . And was never sorry. Now I have no need for such quality , because they are not used on a daily basis. What DeesZ has posted is right on the money on choosing the right unit. You just need to decide what your intentions are and how much you will be needing the full capacity in the future. I am not planning on a future project car, Gary:rambo:

I just spun the nut off with a socket and a impact wrench. Not a big deal. Just use a new nut. mine were only peened enough to keep them from coming loose. You will need a torque wrench that goes up to 200+ ft lbs. I hope you have success with the spindle pins. Boat load or not.

I don't think any one has asked. Are you using any antifreeze ? This helps cooling the engine also and provides a rust preventive. Since you live in the South maybe you haven't thought of this. I recommend on the OEM stat also. My L-24 never went past the center of the gage even at triple digit temps. Now with the ZX engine in the same car with a 2 row stock radiator she didnt over heat either . I now am running a 280 3 core and the same is still true. the old '73 radiator needed repair so I replaced it . Not because of over heating.

the down side was the sound they make . the flex fan that is.

That so called gasket you are referring to is really what is left of the rubber flap that was there to prevent the gas cap from hitting the fender when you filled the tank . Remember the cap was attached to a chain and it is connected inside he filler neck . Arne is right have a good look at the plastic connection on the filler neck . You will need to remove the inner trim panel to expose this and the evap tank . While in there have a close look at all the vent hoses and check for any leaks there also. Gary

How many miles on the injectors ? Have you run any cleaner through them ? Some times this does help . Have you done a compression check or a leak down. With no other info. you could have a burned valve. Gary:rambo:

:hurt: First off I am a SU guy, but why are you wanting to dump the injection in favor of SUs ? I am running SUs on my '82ZX engine that is in my 240. The engine runs strong. What is needed is a intake manifold from a '70--'73Z , You need a set of SUs either 4 or 3 screws , and the linkage as well as the fuel rail. The 280 fuel pump delivers WAY to much pressure about 35 psi . I am running a RX-7 pump that I took from a '79 carburated RX. Delivers 5 psi. $15.00 at the u pull it . I recommend that you also run the early air cleaner as it has tuned velocity stacks mounted in the air box for better performance. After some testing I found the 54 needles that were for the L24 are a good choice for the SUs , I tried several needles and these seem to be the best. At least in my Z. Gary:knockedou

Just a hint here. Even a new battery will fail if allowed to discharge and left this way. When the battery discharges and if not recharged soon it will not be able to recharge back to it's capacity when you do recharge it. There is an explanation for this I won't go into here. If this happens a few times the storage capacity will be greatly diminished. If when you do let the car sit idle for the winter. If you put a charger on it once a month this will keep the battery charged and fresh. Just as long as you don't have a short or relay drain as was previously mentioned . I had the relay situation on my Z as well from a after market dis-abler I installed. If this is the case simply disconnect the ground connection on the battery. If the car is stored in a unheated garage in cold country , I recommend removing it and store the battery in an area that will not freeze, still charge at the monthly interval. I have done this with my boat, trailer batteries for years, with great results. I have has ''trickle'' chargers over charge and ruin batteries. Gary

Sounds to me that the door may have been adjusted for the old worn seals. You may want to have a look at adjusting the hinges before you do any cutting of the new seals. Gary

I just know that they are noisy, I have been running a RX-7 pump used for carburated cars. they provide plenty of flow and 5 PSI. are quiet as well. Mounted near the tank with a in line filter before the pump. Have even tried them on a stroker with triple mikuni's, and they supplied them with no problem . I haven't had any problem with my SUs using this pump for 6 years. Gary $15.00 at the u-pull-it

If you are not going to have it in working order , I would pull it. I got rid of mine first thing when I bought my '73 . I don't live in the climate you do. From what I have recently heard , it is becoming hard to find places that will charge the old freon systems . Plus when you do they charge an arm and a leg. If you were thinking of reworking the system to the new coolant and using it , costly from what I hear, then this is another story. Gary

Dan , I was like you with the rear Axel bearings. I didn't have any problem really. You will need a torque wrench though that goes up to 200+ft lbs. To reassemble. I suggest that you have the How to Restore your DATSUN Z-CAR book By Wick Humble its a Fisher Book. I have a spindle pin puller that makes this a simple job. Just DON'T hammer on the ends of the pins. If you do, the puller will not help. It is free to loan just pay the shipping . The book I mentioned covers the removal of the pins, stub axles and bearings . Are you planning on replacing the struts also. Gary

I completely agree with all the above . Gary:laugh:

Bob by all means make the drive it will be worth it . Maybe you can hook up with the other Z drivers in the Bend area and a new one in Sun River. I posted to this old thread on purpose to bring it up to refresh members awareness of the Show. I don't think any one will be disappointed at all. How could it miss with all of our Zs there. Gary:rambo:

Having recently redone my Z , almost completely disassembling it. I really recommend that you first evaluate the engine and do all the mechanical first. Brakes , suspension all of it. Make it a safe car to drive, and the engine is sound. Then address the body, and the rust issues. The rust is a high priority that must be dealt with properly , the body work next and then paint . Interior goes in after paint, but depending on funds available it can wait. Seals and gaskets should be the last. Having to do suspension after the paint is finished is more difficult because just the nature of the work it is so easy to damage the finish. Gary:rambo:

THE ABOVE TYPE OF ''REPAIR'' IS WHAT CAN KILL YOU. All that is holding the new sheet metal in place is some window caulk and a few screws. The fiberglass over the rust will just allow it to continue to spread and rot away the metal until the floor falls through. Gary:rambo: