beandip

jeff g 78 you nailed it! how the car feels and sounds and performs. She does have soul. There are definitely better and quicker cars now , but our Zs do have what a true sports car must have, and should have. What you said about the fit. So true. The Z does fit like a glove and you feel like part of of the car. Gary

I am planning to go. But not entered to be judged. Might just go to visit and see the people I like to visit with. With what they are asking for registration now and not allowing you to register at the gate ? Blue lake seems like a more laid back event . They want to make the Camby show the hi-light Z event of the state, but ?? I don't do politics vary well. It sure would be great to meet every one that can make it. We, that is a group of us , settled in on what we referred to as the riff-raff area. And we had a great time of it, and enjoyed the show. I go to these shows to have a good time and a few laughs . If this is open to everyone again then I would be interested. If not then ...... blue lake is the option. Just a note: nwcubsman's Z has taken best in show in the near past . I kid him some times but the z is vary fine . Gary:laugh:

I agree completely with what Will just said. If you do a rebuild , replace your dished pistons with flat. Have the head gone over , ported ,milled valve work and the compression raised to 9.5 - 10.0 to one or higher if racing is for the car. Install a cam with a grind suited to the sort of driving you intend for the car. Road racing then a hi-revving cam. Street use then one that will build power at lower revs like 2K to 5500. The 78z is a fairly heavy car compared to a series 1 so overcoming the power to weight ratio will come into this. Building the car for top speed will greatly impact the lower speed performance . As Will stated using a low rear end gearing will greatly improve the off the line performance but will lower the top end speed. Everything is a trade off, it all depends on how fast you want to SPEND . Gary:rambo:

Welcome to the site and congrats on the Z . Be aware that primer is porous and will allow moisture to penetrate to the metal . So if the primer is over paint that will be a moisture barrier , however if the paint was sanded off or removed , you want to address this as soon as you can. The same for Bondo . All the best to you and enjoy your new ride. Gary:rambo:

I think more like 1800 to 2500 RPM , although with a cat in place this should quiet down some of the resonance. I this is what 1999 and I suspect is the cause . Gary I must add that I have had a baffle come loose in a muffler in the past , but it was a definite rattle.

the next thing that will be resurrected will be adding MOTH BALLS to the gas tank. That was tried in the late '50 . I guess it is just one more time of history repeating it self , looking for the '' golden Beebe'' Gary

The two main joys for me in owing my Z is first the great people I have met that are now friends. I would have never have made there acquaintances otherwise. Second is the joy of driving she provides me, plus knowing how she stands out among the hum drum clones on the road today. Gary:classic:

Welcome to the club. I have purchased things from Motorsport zcarparts.com and Too Intense Restoration DatsunRestore.com And have been vary satisfied with either. Also Zeddfindings is another especially for sheet metal replacement, but he has many other things. Gary:rambo:

blue , no need for self tapping screws if you use the plastic inserts I described . The trim ''washer'' will allow you to tighten with out cracking the panel, and they look 100% better than a washer. I used a 3/16 width foam strip that is about 1/8'' thick you just peal the plastic off the back and stick it on the edge of the panel. ACE has a large selection of various thickness . This will eliminate any squeaks. It just replaces the OEM foam that was used originally that has rotted away. This gives a finished look all around and if you are not looking to be original , I think it looks good. One more thing about the plastic inserts. Use a razor blade and cut down the insert so the screw can easily expand the two halves. This way it expands quickly and locks in. If you decide for some reason you don't like them they are easy to remove. Gary:rambo:

Welcome to our group , I grew up in Van Nuys along time ago. There are a few K car people here but mostly you will find Zeds . Again welcome, Gary

I agree with you. One thing though if you want to remain stock then the OEM rivets will be necessary. I don't really care to this extent. So what I used is some stuff I bought at Lows , Home Depot most likely or Ace Hardware should all carry the same things. The plastic things that you insert into sheet rock so you can screw a bracket on the wall. They are tapered and have ridges that grip as the screw is inserted and the two halves separate. Well any way the ones that work are yellow different colors are the different sizes. I cut them to 1/2 inch, this way they will separate quickly when you run the screw in and will lock in place. I used a counter sunk Philips head wood screw and a Stainless washer that has been used in cars for years and years for this. I don't remember the name of them but they accommodate the tapered head of the screw so it is below its surface and dresses up the attachment. I used them everywhere a plastic rivet had been used. I have over 8000 miles on the Z since installation and so far nun have come loose. If I need to remove a panel it is easy . I don't know how to send a picture to the thread . If you would like to see what it looks like send me a PM with your email address Gary

bought mine from MSA and they are Precision brand Too Intense Restoration has them as well. They are soft and supple. I had a pro install my new windshield , and he said that there were two makers of these kits and Precision was by far the best . In his estimation. The second brand was stiffer and didn't seal as well. I have only mine to comment on and everything has worked great. I did all the rest of the installation myself. Gary

I wondered about the thing when I was reassembling my Z 3+ years back. I could see no real reason for it and left it off. I cant see any difference one way or the other. Gary

new to Z , What are you torquing down? The torque values will vary from year to year on many things. Being specific is a good idea . Especially since you are going to be dealing with aluminum is some cases. Gary

as far as I know here in the states the p-90 was used only on the turbo engines F-54s Don't know about the N-42

Kevin , it has been a long time. Must be at least 3 years .

Kevin , it has been a long time. You been out of the country? or in jail? :stupid: Good to have you back. Gary

Welcome to the club. You have found a great bunch of guys that have tremendous amount of knowledge of these Cars. Do make use of the Search section. Tons of good stuff there. Gary

Another thing . Where are you ?

Concentrate on the linkage. I don't recommend that you open up the Carbs especially since you don't have a manual to compare to . The oil in the dampeners will not cause what you are describing. On Round top SUs they take only about 4cc of oil each to fill from empty. I personally use ONLY 20w and for me that works the vary best . The thinner oil causes the vacuum piston to rise quickly which causes a lean fuel/air mixture when you open the throttle. If you have the mixture set vary rich this may not be that noticeable. But you will be running rich over the rest of the RPM range. For those that run on the track it doesn't matter because they are running at open throttle most of the time . Not from idle. I have heard Z people using everything from water to brake fluid in the dampeners , I have tried ATF , Marvel Oil , and various weights of motor oil. Nissan recommended 20w . I found that it works the best for me. Second choice is 10w/30. thats my 2 cts. Gary

The ATF in the dampeners is not your problem. It effects throttle response and can cause a stumble when coming off idle. Unless your mixture is set way rich. But not what you are describing. I have a question about the carbs. You stated in the beginning that they were the Stock flat tops isn't this correct ? Because if they are in fact round top SUs , this is another matter. I DO NOT recommend cutting any springs. Vary likely the problem is in the linkage. It is either binding or in need of lubrication. Oil all the pivot points of the linkage and make sure they are not binding . On the firewall where the linkage comes through from inside the cabin. there is a ''post'' that pivots when you activate the linkage . Check this pivot and oil it well . the white ball things on the linkage will pop off but be careful with them , over the years they tend to be brittle. Pay attention as to how the arms are when you remove the pivot. Just slide the clip off the top of the shaft and then lift the pivot off. I use white lube on this but if you don't have any just oil it good after you have cleaned it. It should pivot freely. put some oil in the ''ball'' connectors and snap them back on. If your Z has all the factory emissions stuff still attached this could also be a cause . However just do this for now. If you still are having the problem let us know . Gary:rambo:

I will send you a PM with a contact Gary

He did say oil. However if this was oil , I would think there would be lots of blue smoke. Like unkle said, likely it is just moisture condensing in the muffler and mixing with the soot coming out of the exhaust. Since he did say the engine is not wanting to idle. There may be a nozzle sticking when he stops using the choke. 1015 try this . pull the choke lever all the way back and then push it all the way forward, with the engine not running. then reach under the air cleaner and feel for he small hose that runs from the float bowl to the nozzle of the Carb. Push up on the adjustment nut and see if it clicks up. If either of them do this vary likely the problem . Also while you are there feel the hose to see if there stiff. A stiff hose will cause the nozzle to stick. If the nozzle sticks down it will cause a VARY rich condition . Gary