bpilati

CRrider, I'm getting ready to overhaul my entire suspension. I'm replacing my springs with OEM spec springs. I'm going with KYB strut inserts. I'm going to use Energy Suspension Hyperflex kit in most areas, but not all. I'm installing a Suspension Techniques swaybar kit. I purchased shocks and swaybars from shox.com. Very difficult to beat their price. Hyperflex kit I bought from local friend. I'm moving my differential to the '72 and later position (straightens out axles). My objective is a good road car. Stiffer springs will make ride stiffer, common sense. The Z did not come with a very impressive front sway bar and tends to sway too much, common sense. Tight ride is good, bone jarring ride is bad. Track cars are not road cars. Tracks are smooth and flat, roads are rough and have potholes, use common sense. Some (well many) like to drive track cars on roads. Why? More money than sense is all I can imagine (my opinion). Why do we have suspension, well to smooth out ride on normal roads. Theoretically, if roads were laser perfect, what kind of suspension would you really need? Lots of jarring and vibration is not good for you car, especially an old one. You're 17, so maybe your body can withstand lots of bone jarring right now, but your Z is 30+ years old....be nice to it. Did BRE drive his cars down country roads or race tracks? Another thing, only a hand full of people that you meet around here even know what a BRAND NEW STOCK 240Z rides like, the rest (incl. me) know what an OLD WORN OUT 240Z rides like. So the springs are old, shocks have been replaced, but are worn out again, OEM bushings are old, worn, dried out and sloppy. So don't underestimate what brand new stock was like. Good suspensions are engineered, not thrown together in the backyard by gosh and by golly. The suspension is a system, you must think it through, don't buy a bunch of brand names for the stickers that come in the box. Don't let people fill your head with OMG sounding racing parts, unless you're going to race...and I mean really race. If you are 90% road and 10% parking lot racing, I'd would recommend caution on installing the gee golly stiff components.

Carl, what I meant was that you can tell how close they are to RIDING like the originals. Very few of us have any idea what a new 240Z rides like. I'm thinking of buying a set of the Euro springs when they come out, just to have a set......just in case.

Carl, I received my set of springs today. They look good and have the paint dabs. I'm very happy because I'm only a couple of minor parts away from my suspension overhaul. I will probably get started in a couple of weeks. New springs, KYB GR-2 strut cartridges, Energy Suspension bushings, Suspension Techniques front/rear sway bar kit and KYB bump stops. I plan to clean and paint the reusable parts. It'll be a lot of work waaayyy overdue. I expect to experience a night and day difference in ride. Just noticed I'm repeating myself. :nervous: I would like everyone who gets the OEM spec springs from Courtesy to give feedback after you get to ride on them. Carl, you could probably tell us how close they are to stock.

The simple, yet sophisticated styling that simultaneously serves a utility purpose. Example: the map light, the interior door handles

Kenny, I bought a seat kit from Les Cannaday (seat covers and foam) for $395. I did the driver's seat, big improvement. I also added some jute padding in the lumbar area, it worked well. Now I had replaced the elastic straps that support the foam cushion. I did not buy the kit that is available. I made it up myself long before the kit was available. It is the same elastic strapping material (only one layer thinner), and for the lateral strap (under the butt) I used nylon seatbelt strap because it doesnt' stretch as much. I also put some canvass between the straps and foam to help the foam last longer. The seat is awesome, and I think the extra lumbar padding would help your back. Also, the new foam is a must in my opinion, because the old foam is somewhat compressed and worn. I'm getting ready to do my suspension as well. New OEM spec springs, KYB shocks, Energy Suspension Polyurethane in key locations, Suspension Techniques sway bar kit, and KYB bump stops. I don't like the red bushings in the sway bar kit but I guess I'm stuck with it.

Les Cannaday at Classic Datsun Motorsports also sells the Hyperflex bushings. Support your small Z businesses if you can. I think he's worth our money.

No Z ever rode like a Buick, I can't imagine where anyone would get that idea. There is one person around here that thinks the Z handles like a wallowing hog or something like that. Anyway, your 30+ year old springs have probably sagged some and lost a bit of there rate. Springs that are too stiff can negatively affect handling as bad as springs that are too soft.

Well I know Z mechanics that would beg to differ with that opinion. These are people that install the Hyperflex Systems regularly. There is no way that you can install a less compliant rubber and not affect ride firmness.

I understand the principle I think, but I've never heard of it. Ice Tech

Heart wrenching!!!!! The horror!!!! :dead:

In the very near future you will be able to buy spring sets made to Nissan OEM specs for 240Z's. I worked with a spring manufacturer, and Carl Beck, to get OEM spec springs manufactured once again for those that do not want to lower their cars or use stiff springs. Keep your eye open on Courtesy Nissan's website. DATSUN OEM SPRINGS ARE BACK!

I don't have a pic and my digital camera is busted.

Brian, my Z doesn't look like the pic right now. I'm in the middle of paint and body work.

Pssst, get the BRE spook from Les.

I wish I had the room to put mine up like that. Unfortunately I don't and it's a daily driver for now. I did put new seat covers on the driver's seat. Wow, what an improvement!

Yall acted like a bunch of juveniles!!!! I like it. :devious:

Let me know how that works out, will you? Thanks.

Since we have a Scarab forum I think we can safely say that Scarabs belong here. There has been long arguments about JTR and other conversions. Study, study, study BEFORE you do anything. Scarab was not a conversion in the same way as JTR, but a company that converted Z's and sold parts for DIY. The central purpose of the JTR conversion was to get a certain transmission in the proper location in the Z. All else followed.

http://cgi.ebay.com/1976-Datsun-240Z-Scarab-Chevrolet-327-V8-Brochure-Lot_W0QQitemZ7181599669QQcategoryZ13561QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Better clamp on to this by 17 SEP.

We had a discussion on the IZCC mailing list, and data was presented that indicated that the BRE spook performed the best of all spoilers/air dams tested. I do not have a technical report in hand, so don't ask. This does not mean that the other products performed poorly.

Whatever melts your butter.

You can weld in a small panel that can be purchased.

The paint you see in the photo is not original. The previous owner had the car painted in 1985 with a Glasurit acrylic enamel. The exhaust is a dual muffler at the back of the car (not twice pipes) and is a Monza or Targa exhaust tip if I remember. I could be wrong on the brand (came with the car). The bumper overriders were accessories and not standard. Those overriders are for looks, they would not add much crash safety, except maybe to keep you from bumping the tip of the hood. My ride is current an ugly patchwork of black primed rust repair patches. I'm too ashamed to show it.

When you take you seatbelt off watch your movements. I'll bet some of you (like me) are allowing the metal buckle to hit the chrome strip on the door when you're hanging the belt on the plastic hook, and that's why it's wearing off in the latter 1/3 of the strip. This chrome is not reparable with homemade fixes. It has to be professionally done. I looked into it on the Web by emailing a few chroming companies. If I think of it I'll dig up what I found out. It can be repaired for a reasonable sum.

I might be interested, but have a question. Won't ABS scratch really easy? I mean the console in a car takes a lot of beating compared to the other plastic interior components. You really need a hard firm plastic.