Dan

BRE stands for Brock Racing Enterprises not British, that guy atleast need to get his facts straight before he scams peoples money.

Thats not even a GTO he has pictured there it's a Vellarosa body package on a 70-78 Z.

Is that a front wheel drive offset or is that just specific to the 240 or early Z.

You might as well shoot that poor car. The only consolation is that it's not a 240.

I've heard alot about the four piston caliper swap from a Toyota 4x4 truck. What year can the sawp be made from?. Thanks

Went to look for rims this last weekend and found out what offset is all about. Because the caliper is so close to the wheel on a 240 you must find a wheel with the proper offset. Panasports seem to be a popular wheel but quite pricy at 250 a pop. I can't remeber seeing a 240 with larger than 16in wheels on it, but that doesn't mean they don't exist.

Like Zmefly said the 240 wins the style race with no problem. After 78 IMO Z's began to lose their classic feel. However mechanically they improved as parts became stronger and engines put out more HP. The good thing about owning an early Z is that it is possible to mix and match parts from various years and come up with a car that will smoke anything comparable. I didn't know that the team that designed the Z had a hand in the E-Type. I'm no car historian but i thought the E-Type came out a few years before the Fairlady and 240. As far as engine options go many people swap the L-24 found in the 240 for a later L-28, but this is not necessary to have a fun and fast car. I have the lens covers on my 240 and i agree that they lend the car a classic look in the same vein as the E-Type and 250 GTO. In colder wetter climes rust is a factor but i think that's true of any car thats in it's third decade. A parts source may be a problem where you live. I would think that there aren't many early Z's in Ireland, so shipping will be something that you will have to deal with. However if you don't mind that MSA here in California can get you just about anything you need for an early Z project. Hope that helps and welcome to the CLASS.

Yea what eob said.

Mike make it go away!!!!!! pleezz.

The butterflys open up because your springs are obviously not there so simple air pressure is doing that. Like 2Many said on the heat shield there should be two hooks, this is where the throttle return springs are anchored. You can get these from Motor Sport Auto www.Zcarparts.com or ZTherapy www.ztherapy.com. Hey if you get desperate i have an extra set you can have for free. I live in San Diego.

MSA sells throttle cable and bracket for their 4 barrel conversion for 62 bucks.

I have Corbeau seats and i can only comment on those. I have Corbeau Forza racing seats in my 72 and ive been very pleased with them so far. They are light and have taken a years use with very little sign of wear. One thing to note is that racing seats often will raise the hight of you and the seat because of the bracket. Corbeau makes a bracket specifically for the 70-78 and other Nissan cars. Even so my seat is only an inch or so from the roof. With seat, bracket and harness i think i paid about 400 bucks per seat. However i didn't use the Corbeau harness i have Shcroth three point belts which go for about 140.

Since i've had my Z NGK's have always been the recommended plug by Zheads. I was told that since electricity always goes through the path of least resistance only one of the split fire electrodes is used at anyone time anyway.

A nice ride have fun!

Ha i am victorious i have found the problem and fixed it. First i checked all the wires with a diagram i have from the haynes manual. Then did some resistance checks and so on but found nothing, everything seemed to be fine. It's true that the male connector to the VR has two less wires than the female side, but according to the diagram all was as it should be. After some more testing i began to eye my VR and wonder if the brand new unit was working properly. So just for the hell of it i went and got a spare i have, it's an original factory VR from an early 280 i think. Hooked it up and it worked fine, was the damn VR all the time. The brand new obviously EL cheapo that the previous owner put on would not shut off power back to the battery, but the 25 yr old Factory junker worked fine go figure. Thanks to all for the help though.

It would Rob, any help you could provide would be much appreciated. Thanks

I don't doubt that your Z guru friend could make that flat tops work, but for that money you might as well go all the way and get your self some ZTherapy round tops. They are about the best SU's money can buy and you won't believe the difference they make. I would just check out the site and decide for yourself, BTW i have a set and love them. www.ztherapy.com

i know what you mean 2Many but i live in a canyon here in San Diego, so when one those infernal cars goes down the street it echos for miles.

Well you do have a nice 240 so i can see why people give you alot of compliments. I often get stopped at the pump mostly by older people who say something nice about my 72. On the road however it seems like anyone in a Honda wants to race me. Those guys with tach's the size of a their heads mounted on the dash, and those mufflers that sound like somone ripping a fart through a megaphone, haha you gotta love em. I guess the sight of a 240 instills jealousy in many people, jealousy and embarisment that they don't have a peice of history, just another cooky cut-out with rims worth more than the car. I can't imagine ever wanting to sell my beloved 240, no it will never happen but i will buy more. Sometimes i imagine a whole fleet of them in front of my newly purchased mansion with fully equiped 10 car gararge and speed shop. Ah what the Z can do to the mind.

It appears that i'm missing a wire from the male side of the connecter that connects the VR to the main wiring bundle. I think this is responsible for the amps pegging of the scale when i drive. In other words the more rpms the more amps. I'm sure that when you start the car the amps peak for a bit to re-charge the battery and then kick back down so as not to fry your battery. What i need to know is where this missing wire would connect to that would limit amps. The VR is brand new the wire is missing from the connecter that connects to it. If i could figure out where this wire goes it wouldn't be a problem to hook it up. As you can imagine driving for long periods makes my battery real hot and i don't want to fry a $120 battery. Any clues would be much appreciated.

I like the calender but instead of just one car per month i suggest two or more with a little write up of the owner and ride. Saying that though i'd go for the license plate frame too.

Hey 2Many just curious but why would a head gasket leak cause bubbles in the coolant did i misunderstand. I had a similar problem on my 72, the coolant lines that ran throught the intake manifold leaked bad so i just bloked them off and threw away the old lines. Since they actually warm the carbs not cool them i live in San Diego so no need. Also i thought 240's were the only early Z's to have the coolant running through the manifold am i wrong.

Yea 2Many is right about the ZTherepy carbs if you can get a set. Your old carbs will cover the core charge.If you can get your hands on another set its a hundred bucks of your puchase price. Also they flow better than stock SU's. Stock Su's flow at 150cfm where as ZTherepy carbs flow at 175cfm due to the thinner throttle shafts they make.

I can't imagine anything on an early Z costing 1500 to replace even with service charges, i mean msa sells brand new engines for 1700. I would go with the oil treatment first. I once had a Nissan garage tell my wife that my 72 needed brand new carbs that would cost 1300 bucks. I was on a training hop with the navy at the time and had only had the car for a few days. I called her and asked if she could just have them check it and tune it. Long story short nothing wrong with the carbs. However i did end up buying ZTherepy carbs probably the best out of the box SU's on the planet for under 600. After that i will never never never again trust a professional mechanic with my Z, there is nothing on that car i can't learn how to do. I mean come on a modern toatster has more technilogical sophistication than an early Z. Ok breath....red haze subsiding pulse.....returning... to.... normal. I know i didn't help you a bit but your post just brought it all back to me. Anyway someone on this site will give you the right info soon. No offence to any pro mechs out there i'm sure there are some good ones.

After i put in my ZTherepy carbs i pulled the radio because the engine sounds so sweet. So i listen to ZL@highRPM the only station i need.