Maddos

That looks great. When's the next one on? Have to make the pilgrimage.

I know this doesn't make much sense but anyway... My 260 would almost die if accelerated but pull over put in neutral and would rev fine, take off again same thing. Only reason found fault was because wire going to ballast resistor started to smoke. Bridged out ballast resisitor to get me to store, changed out and all good. Don't know how likely to have same fault but there's another check.

Same here. Not a zed in sight. Thought it was just me

They didn't have 260 did they?

What are you missing?:cross-eye

Had mine tinted yesterday. 18% is what they actually offered me as it is an older car and can get away with it. They showed me examples on their cars first and isn't too bad.

260z 2+2 driven by main character in Australian movie Crackerjack

What about this issue? What's the deal with these moustach bars. The one with flogged out rubbers (blue) is from my late 74 260 2+2. The other is from my parts car and was going to be swapped in as rubbers are ok. As you can see different bends plus mounting holes on diff were different sizes, thought this was the worst problem but now this. The moustach bar I removed with bad rubbers ran behind the bracket which holds the rear suspension up also. The parts car ran in front. Checked my other cars and all seem to run in front. This is a pic of the diff in my blue car. This is the diff I removed from the parts car. Is this a totally different diff or something because I thought if they were 180 or 200 all you had to do was reverse bar. Need help, do I just order some new rubbers for other bar?

Just read it for first time chasing this problem

I'll have to check the needles. Those 54's sound like the go. Extractors are another name for headers over here.

AHHh. Now that you mention it, when I just fitted the extractors had to bend up the heat shield a bit to clear which had the return springs fitted to them. Could be my answer also.

I've also just swapped my L26 for an L28 and converted to manual. After driving it last weekend had the exact same symptoms you've described. I have the round top 240 su's fitted. When I got home left engine running and dropped the idle screws on front and rear carbs and used my balancer to make sure still in balance. Haven't taken it out since so don't know how my changes will affect it cold. I've also just fitted extractors and a 2.5 system. I was assuming I would have to change needles in the carbies to handle the extra capacity. Is the best bet here to take to someone with dyno who knows a bit about su's?

Bugger. That answers my question. Just bought 260 2 seater with pretty bad rust around rear lights and gaurds and was hoping to cut and transplant from 2+2. This is going to be more involved than I thought. http://newcastlezeds.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1183629444/7#7 See for yourself

What part of the country are you? Want to stay well away.

I can't help but buy bits that my zed could use to improve it. Only problem is I'm too greedy to part with the bits I'm replacing so my collection just keeps growing. Lucky I've just got two 40 foot containers to fill.

I would say absolutely have the same colour undercoat all over especially with a yellow top colour. One of the yellow submarines I work on had a respray with only the damaged paint getting a hit with primer. End result was a sub that looked like a spotted cow.

Don't understand how they can class body as excellent with rust showing. Looks pretty nasty underneath too.

Not a bad idea, I spent about an hour chasing brake light switch and fuses etc on a ute only to find that both globes had burnt out for brake but not tail lights (same globe). The very last thing I suspected to have happened.

Sorry, missed the north west NSW somehow. Seeing as though you have all the original docs, what's the paint code on that? Looks like what mine is supposed to be and as am halfway through being ready for respray still deciding if going this original colour or that nice metallic blue you see on a lot of mazda 6's and the sp23's

Very impressive. Is that the original paint do you know? You haven't said where about you are. Do you mind saying what you paid for this treasure?

I only found it because I've pinched the battery for my tractor so when I replace it will try to find one of correct dimensions. As for changing centre of gravity I fail to see how this is a great issue as it's expecting a battery of that height anyway, it's not as if it's going above what is standard.

I just noticed on the weekend that under my plastic battery tray there was about a 1 inch thick piece of ply to bring battery up to correct height to fit original battery bracket. You wouldn't even know it was there.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/DATSUN-510-120Y-B210-240Z-FRONT-SIDE-MARKER-LAMPS-NEW_W0QQitemZ190044112278QQihZ009QQcategoryZ102336QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Well done. I'm right behind you. STill a bit nervous about starting

Try disconnecting throttle linkage across firewall or at carbs to see if is being held open a little.