Guycali

Scott, When you said "oblonged/ovaled" hole, did you really mean the hole is NOT round? The hole should be round so theres no free play when stepping on the pedal, which relates to point it acutally applies pressure to clutch cylinder. If you have a perfect round hole, then my guess is you probably have air in the lines. Try to bleed again. Do you have a good working slave cylinder? Did you set the correct engagement gap on the slave cylinder? I don't have my manual handy but I recall it was something like 2-3 full turns back out from point of engagement. HTH, -Wilbur

Few S30s, mostly 350Zs... Replace tsumagoi_vol# with 2-6 to see more pics. -guycali http://any-s.net/from-z/slideshow/tsumagoi_vol1/index_frame.html

It doesn't seem like there's going to be an Ohlone Fremont Z event this year, not listed in ZONC.org's calendar anyway. I heard there were too many 350Z's and not many old school Z's last year so organizers were bummed. Should we try to persuade them to host one? Lower the entry fee too so some of us with Z beaters or rust buckets can park together to show old school support!!! -Guycali

Argh just my luck! Can't make it as I have a b-day party in SF. Unless you guys will be there after 2pm??? I'll stop by after I'm done with the party. Play v-ball or something to keep occupied... Otherwise, see you guys at Rio Vista on 4/3. -Wilbur

Rio Vista, I'm there! My car is running but still in rusty shape. I'm up for a meet before Rio Vista as long as it doesn't rain on that day. I live in Pittsburg by Hwy4. Let's get together for a drink! -Wilbur

Hi all, Where can I find Moog suspension parts (cheap?), especially ball joints and tie rod ends for 70-73 240Z? I have much doubts about the quality of those Taiwan-made ones. Heck, I even managed to break an impact wrench socket adapter 1/2"->3/8" when using it with a 1/2" non-impact rachet. Regards, Wilbur

2ManyZ, unibody as the carcass or shell, excluding hood, fenders, headlight buckets, doors, and hatch right?

For those who can't access 50megs.com, I've transfered it to comcast. Here's the link: http://home.comcast.net/~guycali/photo.html. Enjoy! -Wilbur

Oh that? . That was last year's "z by the bay" if you look at the date of the thumbnail!

Yes. It was unfortunate there weren't many old Z's at the show. I don't think Mr. K was at the event this year, unless someone corrects me wrong. He hadn't shown yet by the time I left around 12:30pm. It was a disappointment without Mr. K being there. But then again, Mr. K can't be at every Z club event in the world every year so that's understandable.

Hmm. I've been having problems with 50megs.com recently. For example, I can't access the site at work on one machine but able to from home (both by clearing all cookies and cache). I'll try to download the site to my comcast web page but 50megs.com doesn't allow FTP for free accounts so it'll be a bit difficult. Will let you know once I get it transfered to the new site. Try couple more times in the meanwhile. Thanks, -Wilbur

Darn it! Guess you can't ask much for a free web page. OK. It's time to move the page to my attbi account. Sorry about that. Try to type the url in the address bar instead of clicking on it directly. Or just type "http://guycali.50megs.com" and click on "Photos" tab in the page. HTH, -Wilbur

There was a nice turnout on Saturday for "Z by the Bay". Weather was nice & cool and pretty much everyone got in by 11am. The event was very well organized as cars were separated into groups and parked in designated lots. Interestingly, 350Z's dominated the scene entirely this year with the shear number of attendance. There was even a GULL-WING 350Z!!! The next big group was the Z32's and the old school Z's trailed last along with few roadsters, 240sx's, and 510's. Here are some the pics I took at the event. http://guycali.50megs.com/photo.html Regards, Wilbur

I get this error when I click on "Post", Runtime Error - "Line: 68. Error: could not get the cursor property. Invalide argument." I tried two different machines: NT and Win2K. Same error. -Guycali

Ha! 15min for each fender? Try 2 hours on just one fender!!! The two philips screws under the cowl panel were seized with rust. No matter how much WD40 I sprayed, they just wouldn't budge. I had no choice but ended up using a locking vice grip to bite on the round heads and turn them a little by little. Well after 2 hours, I finally got one screw off and the other one deformed with 1/4 of a turn loosen. :mad: To be continued next weekend... Did they come with philips head screws under the cowl panel from the factory? Whoever designed or replaced the fasteners with screws should be shot! -Guycali

How can you tell the clearance is dead on even with feeler gauge? I adjusted my valves with a tad of resistance pushing in the gauge. Someone indicated that looser is better to ensure oil can get in there to lubricate the cam lobes. However, having too much clearance will cause valves not to seat properly when closed and lose compression, no? -Guycali

NEVER ever ever ever ever... let anyone touch your toys!

On my '72, there are only two wingnut bolts for the air cleaner. Each wingnut bolt screws into a hex extension (14mm?) that is about 1" in extension length with 1/2" screw length and secures the air cleaner base into one side of each carb. HTH, -Guycali

It's time for another edition of ZONC Blackhawk Auto Museum event for Z's, 510's, and Roadsters. Don't miss out! http://zonc.org/Calendar/BlackhawkShow2003.html -Guycali

http://www.zcar.com/forums/read.php?f=1&i=361717&t=361717

Well, I bought this '72 last August and had just got it to running condition recently. It didn't occur to me to ask the previous owner whether he had added lead substitutes continuously with each fill-up or had the valve seats been replaced with the hardened ones when I bought the car. I just don't want to worsen its current condition any more. Federation of British Historic Vehicle Clubs (FBHVC) endorsed and approved lead substitutes were Millers VSP-Plus, Red Line Lead Substitute, Superblend 12 / Zero Lead 2000, and Valvemaster. Of the four brands, only Red Line is sold here in the U.S. I guess the generic brand I bought at Autozone won't give me much protection but at least it'll give a little peace of mind and get me on the road now. I wonder if any organization here in the U.S. had done a similar test comparison of lead substitutes? The link I provided shocked me because of the phrase "on highways". Not sure the exact legality of the ruling but it may be legal to drive with lead substituted fuel locally but not on highways. That'd be strange though because combustion efficiency and fuel economy are worse in local driving than highway at constant speed. :stupid:

For those with non-hardened valve seats in their 240z's running lead additives, did you know we are prohibited driving on highways? http://www.epa.gov/docs/EPA-AIR/1996/February/Day-02/pr-1326.html I just bought a can of lead substitues for my E88 head and it cost a little over $3 bucks/can. Not only this is a hassel but additional expense every fill-up. Is it possible to replace hardened valve seats into the E88 or is it better to upgrade to later heads like N42, N47 etc.? Also, where can I find cheaper lead additives for about a dollar/can? -Guycali

Carl, Thanks for the heads up. Sure enough, my clutch pedal had oval'ed to have about 3-4mm free play. I can weld in the bushing myself but not sure where to find 8mm bushings. What kind of material should the bushing be made of: bronze, copper, steel? Thanks. -Wilbur

Thanks BK240. I have a '72 4spd and it's all stock. I've replaced the clutch disc, pressure plate, and throwout bearing. I have temporarily fixed it by disconnecting the return spring on the slave cylinder. It appears that with the return spring connected, the pushrod of the slave cylinder doesn't have enough force to overcome the tension in the spring to deliver proper disengagement distance to the clutch. The car shifts pretty well in all gears with the return spring removed. Good to know it's not the synchros. *whew* Of course, this isn't a long term solution. Either the slave or master cylinder isn't working properly because I've bled the clutch over and over again. Or it could be both cylinders. I guess my solution is to replace the slave cylinder then the master to really fix the problem. The return spring is there for a reason. Having it disconnected doesn't sit well with me. -Wilbur

Hi all, Hope you can give me some insights. I've just replaced the clutch and bled the system, drained and refilled the tranny oil, and bled the brake system. I can move the shifter in all gears okay with engine off. However, when the engine is running, I can't shift into any gears, no matter how hard I tried. I have attempted to decrease the clutch/shift fork gap but all that does is firm up the pedal travel and the problem remains. With the engine off, I can shift into 1st gear, start the engine, slowly release the clutch pedal and the car will move forward. However, I just can't shift to any other gears while the engine is turning. I do hope the problem is not the synchros but simple clutch adjustment. I'd be most grateful if anyone close to me can help me get this puppy on the road! Regards, -Wilbur