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HLS30-00042 arrived this afternoon for a complete restoration. Boy, this an early one, complete with the original clear rear window. It's a little beat up, but most of the parts are there. I own HLS30-02614 in the same color, so by the time I am finished they should be looking like twins. The motor runs, which is great, but it will undergo a complete rebuild. Amazingly, the head still has the overspray on the lower portion, which is pretty rare to see. I will see if the machine shop can leave that intact. There are still a few wire clamps in there and the owner has a metal fan (and a number of other key parts), so we should be able to get the engine bay looking like the original. Looks like the hood has been replaced by a later series that was orange. The drivers side door may have been replaced as well, as there appears to be blue paint under the Safari Gold re-spray. Also, the rear panel under the rear bumper is pretty beat up and front bumper is missing. We will need to get one of those. Rear bumper looks to be in pretty good shape. Both headlight buckets are fiberglass and cracked. Both fenders are pretty rusted out in the standard places. Rear hatch panel is also rusted out (as usual) and will need to be replaced by the body shop. The interior will need to be completely restored as most items are severely cracked or worn. The original dash has just one crack in the middle unfortunately. Not sure if that is repairable, I will have to look into that as the single crack is about 2 inches long. The seats have the original vinyl material which is cool, but not usable obviously (from the pics). So the plan here is to completely strip the car over the next two weeks and get the body to the body shop ASAP as that is typically the long pole in the process. I am estimating about 6 months for the body shop to complete all its work. While the body is out, I will send the block and head to the machine shop to get that all in order for me to re-build. All the undercarriage parts will be sent to the powder coater, and all of the nuts and bolts will go out for re-plating. I will re-upholster the seats, clean up the wiring harnesses and replace the connector housings, and then start re-assembling items as they return from the shops so that once the body arrives, everything will be ready to assemble. I will post progress on here and pics as things move along. As always, feel free to comment.

The body is now at the weld shop and the replacement panels from KF Vintage have arrived. The welder, Larry, said the panels were very good quality and nice thickness. Panels are now being installed. Pics are below. Work is being done by L&L Restomods. https://www.llrestomods.com/

I have two 2400 valve covers, one from the original motor and one that the owner sent. I was not happy with the painted valve cover, although it looks pretty, as it would get dinged by the ZCON judges as not the original finish. Also, it's not the original finish. So, I just decided to clean up the original valve cover. I am much happier with that. Looks much better. Pics below

I have been delinquent in posting updates, but finally have a little time so here goes. I will break this up into several posts so the pictures won't be overwhelming. It took almost 5 weeks to get the engine parts from Motorsports, but once they arrrived it gave me all the hardware I needed to finish the engine. The shipment was delayed for the stock piston rings. The motor went together pretty smoothly with no hiccups. The only item that was odd, and I'm guessing it's an early car item, is that the timing chain did not have the two timing links, 42 links apart. There was just one bright link and it actually had a clip feature on it so that it could be easily removed. Can't say I have seen that before. I did not take a pic of it, but may show that in the future. Pics of the engine are below.

Maybe the crap in the tank is too large to pass through the filter screen in the tank. It just blocks it up instead

I would use a small electric fuel pump and some hose sections and maybe a small tube section and pump it out into another container. Diesels can get algae in the tank but I've never heard of that in a gasoline car...

Any young kids around? My next door's 5 year old put gravel in my Nissan D-21 p/u fill hole. Cost his Dad some money too. Maybe a Snickers bar in there?

These cars didn't have coated tanks when new so they get "gas varnish" whatever that is. I coated both of mine with Red-Kote after a good cleaning but that's a lot of work. Until your ready for that just keep the fuel level at half a tank and enjoy the ride. Here's a couple of things you could read over... https://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/gastank/index.htm https://www.google.com/search?q=gas+varnish&rlz=1C1VDKB_enUS1121US1121&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 EDIT: Some gas stations have ground water leaking into their old tanks so sometimes they will get moisture causing rust but if you keep fuel in it the rust won't happen, it takes oxygen and moisture to rust.

Selling rare OEM SU carburetors, including the manifold and heat shield. More info on ebay listing:https://www.ebay.ca/itm/375833935475

That’s rust in the tank. Are you running a pre-filter before the pump. Fram 33003 is an in line 3/8 filter that’s clear.

Hey Mike, Thanks for that information! When I posted them, I only found one other listing on facebook or something for 1100. That's what i based the price on. Let me know a price that sounds more attractive.

Yes, they are Hitachi's, a lot of people mistake them as they look alike. I've got a nice story about those! Our King had his own garage with at the head a master technician.. That technician Jan de J. came one day at 93! to me to buy a ReVox Tapemachine and saw the 240z standing on the driveway.. As he said that's a nice car i asked if he wanted to see the engine, offcourse he reacted and i showed him what's under the hood.. He pointed at the carbs and he said AH.. 2 BIG SU's that's nice and i had to correct him.. No i said these are improved SU's! They are Hitachi HJG46W! Also called roundheads.. you better avoid the flatheads hitachi (HMB46W) carbs as they are very difficult to tune.. There are some differences between the SU's en these Hitachi's.. what they are, i don't know as i never had some SU's in my hands! ;-) I'm sure these differences are in the details..

I want that cone.

I installed the new exhaust clamps today. As is often the case, I had to modify them to fit the pipe that slips over the header collector. The clamps were for 2.5 inch diameter, and while the headers have 2.5 inch outlets, the merge pipe that slips over top of those has an OD of 2.665". The "T bolt" clamps that were supplied originally were not heavy duty enough to clamp the slip fit connection tight enough to eliminate leaks. These new ones are strong enough, but I had to use a die grinder to slot the holes for the bolt and trim a bit off of the aluminum spacer to achieve a larger overall installed diameter when on the pipe: One of them still leaks a tad, but the other seems air tight. I will mess with the one a bit more some other day. With that done, I went about the main task of the day, which was to get some baseline AFR readings. Stock N27 needles, new nozzles, remanufactured carbs, in sync, etc. Mixture screws are turned down 2.2 turns. Here is idle: Let's call it 10.2 - 10.4. Here is steady state cruise. I will note that at a steady cruise on a very slight incline road, the AFR is a bit leaner than steady steady cruise on a perfectly flat, or very slightly declining road. Also, my RPM are only being recorded properly at idle. Any revs, and the signal is getting lost. This run is basically cruising in third gear at something above 3000 RPM Let's call that 16.2 - 16.5. And finally, a near, if not full throttle pull in first, and second, and part of third: This This one is harder to read. Wish the RPM signal was recording accurately. That said, looking at the above and recalling from watching the AFRs while accelerating with near full throttle, I was surprised to see numbers in the 12's and 13's. I am near certain that the two drops in the AFR line above (I put yellow notes at 4 and 9 seconds are shifts from first to second, and second to third. So, "pulling" in second under near or full throttle (look at seconds 6 through 9), I am seeing 12.9 to 13.4? I think I will work on getting the RPM signal attenuated and then I need to make some more full throttle runs. Perhaps I should do a leak down as a check to see if the engine is fully broken in. I've got about 280 miles on it, and until today, hadn't given any full throttle. That's why I was surprised with those AFR readings - I had only been applying moderate throttle and when doing that I am definitely getting lean AFRs. Transitioning from cruise to part throttle acceleration, I am generally seeing 16.9 to 17.1.

Are they SU? They are Hitachi's! so.. name them as such..Thank you.. Hitachi made these under license of SU.. but they are different then su carbs so they are not su they are japanese hitachi carbs. I'm sorry is i sound angry but i'm tired of correcting.. all the time..🙊