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Asleep. Seriously, life has been a bit crazy. Mom was diagnosed with late stage Alzheimer's so I have guardianship and conservatorship duties, then Covid hit. Then the timing belt broke in my 2005 Legacy Goon. Then Mrs. Racer 2.0 fell and broke her ankle. Then she fell and broke her wrist. Then our oldest grandson was killed in a head on collision a couple years ago last November. He was in the Army, stationed at Ft. Bragg, the 82nd Airborne. He was out with some buddies on a Sunday evening and some guy got on the freeway going the wrong way. Killed the other guy, my grandson, a kid and girl in the backseat of his car and the kid riding shotgun lived with serious injuries. No alcohol or drugs were found in any of the victims. As if life wasn't dealing me enough bad cards, Mrs. Racer 2.0 passed away last February. I came home and found her on the couch, looking like she had laid down to rest. She died in her sleep, the coroner said atherosclerotic cardiovascular disease (hardening of the arteries) with WHO Class 2 obesity as a contributing factor. Tuesday after Memorial Day I came home from work to find a water line had broken in the wet bar upstairs. Half my house was flooded. The contractor just finished up last week and now I am moving back into the house that I built 16 years ago. Last October I had my right hip replaced. The left one was done 13 years ago, and it took that long to get the right one as worn out. I did get up to Alaska for the holidays. Saw psychedelic skies and shot a bunch of pretty cool guns. So yeah, here we are. Regarding an engine, Ollie is the guy to ask. In fact I need to ring him up myself, I'm considering using one of the non EGR fuel injection manifolds on a build I'm planning. Stay tuned.

Wow. Glad you're still around, but what a chain of events! Hope it's greener pastures from here!!

Progress continues on S/N 00042. A number of items are out at vendors and should be returning all before the end of the month. Undercarriage parts will be media blasted tomorrow and then sent to the paint shop. Plated parts are finishing up and should ship either tomorrow (1/17/2025) or Monday. Engine block and head are at the machine shop and should be here before the end of the month. The body will be sent to the metal repair guy before the end of the month, so lots going on over the next couple weeks. At this point, I am most eager to get started on the engine, so I will monitor that one closely. I already have the engine gasket kit and am cleaning up parts so I am ready to go. In the mean time, I have been cleaning and painting some of the different parts. Below are some pics of the finished items. The motor mount brackets were pretty interesting as they were all of three colors. The base color is black. Over that is a light blue overspray. on top of that is a dark blue overspray. I am pretty sure this is all factory, so it must have been an interesting process for these early cars. Since the base color was black for the mounts I went with that,as the blues appeared to just be overspray. I do not think that I will try to replicate the overspray. I cleaned and painted the rear half shafts in the original black. The rubber boots were in good condition so I just cleaned them up. I kept the overspray on the original metal ties intact, although I was tempted to clean that off just to get a little color in the assembly. The half-shafts of S/N 2614 are shown below for color reference.

@240dkw I sent an email to Ztherapy last night and they responded this morning. Hold off on looking for now - don't want to trouble you. They have one for a good price. Thank you for the response.

Been working on the LS-into-91 Volvo 740 Pickup. Prep work involved beefing up the rear subframe & engine crossmember. I decided to make a double-wall version of the rear subframe welded two together Then added cross bracing when that was all done Added outliers, so I also doubled the rear brace bushings After that was done, I worked on the front crossmember reinforcements Tie plates were added by Volvo for later models that had the whiteblock L6. The right side bracket was still available, so I bought that & used it to make the left side reinforced a bunch of unfinished seam welds added some additional bracing where they are known to crack on V8 installs additional boxing on the top side decent pan clearance, I added 1.125" mount spacers (intended for V8 into Datsun Z swaps) converting to 6AN lines for the PS rack to pump More work to go before I get to pull the stock drivetrain & start the test fitting.

I measured my nozzle drop and got .370" for the back carburetor and .365" for the front. So, it seems I did a bit of exaggeration there! I tweaked the #1 bar a bit on the back carburetor and was able to achieve smooth up and down movement of the nozzle. I tested its movement repeatedly. That one is good! I am in the middle of doing the same thing to the bar on the front carburetor to get the front nozzle to stop sticking. Evidently, these bars have to be in quite a particular shape, or they allow a sideways force on the nozzle that can cause it to stick when it is extended out of the nozzle sleeve.

Yes, that is basically what I did, every single nut and bolt. That's why it ends up being so many boxes. The only exception is the carbs and fuel pump. Owner has a pretty set of rebuilt carbs and fuel pump. Horns were disassembled and fasteners sent to plater.

I will check tomorrow and let you know.

Worth a shot. Email sent.

At idle, you SHOULD be seeing around 30 psi. If you goose the throttle, it should shoot up to 36 for a brief period. But at steady state idle, a reading of 30 is not a problem. That fuel pressure spec is a differential reading. Think about it this way.... There should always be 36psi across the injector. Fuel line pressure on the inlet side of the injector, and intake manifold pressure (vacuum) on the other. If the manifold vacuum is 17 inches of mercury (which converts to around 6 psi of vacuum). You need to subtract that six psi from the fuel pressure in order to maintain the 36 psi differential. Fuel line pressure - manifold pressure = desired differential across injector (which is 36) 30 - (-6) = 36 << fuel line pressure = 30 When you are at WOT, the intake manifold vacuum is zero: 36 - 0 = 36 << fuel line pressure = 36 Does that make sense?

I purchased a new fuel pump from a different manufacturer. It has a much firmer and shorter arm throw for a complete pump cycle. I manually measured the difference between the two, and the new pump has a 1/2-inch shorter throw. It's behaving more like I expected. It quickly returns to the start position without much delay, and I get approx. 5 lbs of pressure from it. I'll agree with Zpenman at this point and chalk it up to poor manufacturing of the original replacement part. Thanks, everyone.

Nissan did make wiper blades for high speed, I have a pair NOS for the 510, with a blade to help with downforce. Though unsure if there were Nissan ones for the the S30, without checking. Yes, a common problem with the wiper mechanism, slow and not setting back, most swap to the Honda(?) wiper motor, but a through clean and re-grease may do the trick.

Yeah, that's a good question. I've been wondering that myself.

Where has @Racer X been?

Well, I was. I have both nozzles moving up and down without sticking now, but I managed to break the bent connecting rod (4) on the front carb. Somehow, with the screw not holding the (1) Connecting Plate A to the nozzle, the spring loaded mechanism for the choke jammed fully upwards, and I couldn't for the life of me figure out why I couldn't get it to pull down where it belonged. In a moment of frustration, I pulled on the linkage to bring it back down where it belongs, and sheared the connecting rod at the bottom, where there is a 90 degree bend. Anyone have a "parts" front carb, who could bare to part with (pun intended) the (4) connecting rod?