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Scored a little sump’n sump’n from Japan. Not an original, but not one of the ubiquitous vinyl replicas, either. New Old Stock (with a small mark on the back), leather, and less $ than the JDM wheel in rough condition I was considering. I had just received an email that RS Watanabe Falcon steering wheels are shipping again, but that would have cost me twice as much. For those who weren’t aware, you can see how much flatter these are that the USDM wheels. These have the same hub and spoke dimensions, depth, and outer diameter as the JDM wheels, just padded leather instead of the thin resin-impregnated wood with finger grooves. There were two more at the time this auction closed: one NOS in a different box, and one used; both more than this one. There’s also a NOS JDM 70-71 wheel without the horn icon for an insane amount. 💸💸💸

CanTechZ, 2016 - Guess I'm a bit behind, but many thanks for the paint description. Love the job you did on your hubcaps - hope mine come out as pretty. Happy New Year!

Thanks Richard. Just to clarify, the hubcaps in my pictures are are OE and unrestored. I just used them for comparison of color and finish with the tail light surrounds, that I did paint. I only wish I could restore hubcaps to that level.

That's fun!! Gotta love cool neighbors who are car people

Just getting ready to re-paint the tail light finisher on my 7'70 that is currently satin black and I found a very close matching Dupli-Color paint that is not a metallic finish, It is a Ford color called Dark Shadow Gray. In Canada it is Dupli-Clor number CBFM0360. For a test I did a partial paint to the inside of a tail light finisher half from my 12/70 parts car that was the original grey. I also did a test on a old license plate light body. I used two coats of paint and two coats of the Dupli-Color matte clear. Here are the results comparing to one of my un-restored original hubcaps that are only brought out for shows. Here is a close up showing the new paint at the top and the original paint at the bottom, I'm quite happy with the results. The paint not being metallic makes the job much more forgiving. And here is the license plate light body with new paint compared to the un-restored hub cap:

If you do it right and remove the rear finisher you'll need two different size push pins. The big ones on top and two smalls behind the tag. You may be able to reuse the old ones if you're careful and able to find the center pins. Those on top are hard to find. I've got both style Nissan part numbers at home, if you need them let me know.