Leaderboard

Something like this perhaps? https://belmetric.com/m8-slotted-grub-flat-point-set-screw-brass/?sku=SS8X10SLFLATBRS or perhaps stainless would be better because it is heavier: https://belmetric.com/m8x1-25-a2-stainless-iso-4026-flat-point-allen-socket-set-screw/? And what are your thoughts about drilling and threading up the center of the float on the bottom surface? Using the same logic you mentioned, if it were to back out, it would either drop out (and lower the fuel when it does), or contact the bottom of the float bowl, and hold the float up higher, dropping the level of the fuel.

After a bit of tinkering (well alot) I trial fitted the reproduction gasket set i made to a 240z series 1

Power Brake Exchange is a great company that has terrific customer service. Thought the booster they rebuilt for me was not working correctly. They had me ship it back at no charge. Checked it out and after it was all said and done I had installed the check valve backwards. On the 78 280 the arrow points towards the intake. I had it backwards. Long story short the booster works perfectly.🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️

IMHO, seems to me if you sent those carbs off to Z Therapy to install new floats and valves it would be a cheap fix to know it’s done right. Just kind of sounds tricky to start modifying floats by drilling and screwing stuff in them. Why God created money. Power Brake Exchange built a couple boosters for me…..beautiful work.

This one has a Reserve. #682. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1970-datsun-240z-129/

My last incarnation was a 4 gram brass piece threaded into the side of the float. This seemed to work well: And as for position, I put it into the side of the float over by the hinge pin. That way, it it ever started to unthread, it would tend to hold the float up, not hold the float down. My thinking is it's safer for the float to be held up (thereby cutting off the flow of fuel), than it is for the float to be held down (allowing fuel to flow even when it shouldn't). "Fail-safe". You could probably find something generic to use instead of making a custom piece. Maybe a brass wood screw of similar mass? And as for your hinge integrity, I think maybe yours looks fine. Maybe bent down a couple thousandths, but not enough to worry about.

Sorry, not sorry, this doesn't make any sense. Both the roof skin AND quarter skin are very desirable pieces off a donor car. And you don't need to sacrifice one to get the other. "A" pillar, cut anywhere. "C" pillar, or whatever you want to call it, cut at the joint between the roof skin and the quarter skin! It's easiest if you melt the body lead out with a torch. Propane will do - it'll even melt with a heat gun. Then you can see the actual joint. When you have the skins separated it's easy to see how to transplant them to another Z. Unless one is trashed, save both. Just my 45 cents... (inflation)