Leaderboard

Thanks guys looks like junkyardjenny has some for a great price.

I've done 4-5 rear glass installs and agree with you, more difficult than the front. As mentioned by Patcon, hatch needs to be mounted on the car, install the rubber gasket on to the glass, install the SS trim into the rubber gasket. Lose the rope and get some string trimmer/ weed wacker line, install the trimmer line in the pocket that will go over the pinch weld, lube every thing up, I just use a squirt bottle with water with a small squirt of dish soap. You really need a second pair of hands, close the hatch, mount the glass on the hatch, snug the glass down on the bottom of the hatch, that the will be the edge that gets installed over the pinch weld first. The last section of the rubber to be installed will be up near the roof. One guy is inside the car laying on his back, the other outside. Start pulling the line over the pinch weld, once you have it over the entire bottom lip the guy outside needs to pull the glass down to ensure full contact. It is crucial that this step is done now, once the sides are done there will be too much fiction to adjust the glass. Once the bottom is properly seated work the bottom corners one at a time, proceed up the sides equally, then the top corners, then the top horizontal section. On the corners it is helpful to rotate the line in a counter clockwise circle to help the the rubber over the lip without tearing, also, once the rubber lip is over the pinch weld you will want to push/pull the lip down from inside with your fingers so it is fully seated.

Odd, I don't see the lower part on eBay at all. Lots of the upper striker and dove tails but not the popper part. I have some used ones if you are interested.

That spring is very stiff! I don't think you can manipulate it by hand.

Alright, I was totally wrong about these headlight scoops. I thought since it was thicker, it would be shorter on the inside curve. When I measured it, it was exactly the same as my thinner bucket, so I didn't touch it. Although they vary in thickness and weight, they fit pretty much the same. Some kind of manufacturing genius. Instead I focused on the center valance as my problem. And that is was. The body work done on it had it curved in at the ends. I got one from resurrected classics, and was so glad when I pulled it out of the box, that it was straight and my hunch was correct. Had to modify the holes a bit on the ends but I'm very happy with it!

You are correct. I remember building early L series engines using the later (73) pistons…..all that was available. The pistons would come out if I recall fifteen thousands of an inch. The books call for sixty thousands of an inch clearance. OK with the open chamber head but closer with the early E88 and E31 heads. They worked with the early heads, but it made you wonder. 🤞

There is a modern alternative to heating. Handy for the DIY who may not have torches. It is extreme cooling sprays. Various " Freeze " sprays are available from CRC and Weicon that freeze a bolt down to -30F or lower in seconds. The bolt shrinks, the rust crystals are broken and the Penetrating fluid now has room to " wick " into the threads by capillary action. This stuff works amazing and is used by a lot of Industrial firms. I've used it on frozen turbocharger bolts and flanges on Marine engines ( Salt water corrosion ) and the stuff works extremely well. CRC Freeze Off: https://youtu.be/b0BaowQvL6c Weicon Rust Shock: http://www.weicon.com/pages/ca/products/spray/dissolving-separating/rust-shock-spray.php

I was lookong on ztherapy's website. They offer a euro style balance tube. Smoothed and polished. All extraneous holes welded up. On another note, I didn't know Bruce Palmer had passed away! He was always so nice on the phone... 😞