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You could shorten the port by an 1/8"

My understanding is that the reason exhaust valve seals are less of a concern is... The cavity where the valve stem passes through the exhaust port is never under vacuum like the intake port area is. It's less likely you would ever pull oil INTO that area because you just don't have the vacuum differential like the one you see on the intake side.

p.s. since you only have two bad cylinders it might be worth the time to just replace valve seals on those two. If it was mine I'd probably just do the two intake valves. Why mess with the others that appear to be just fine?

Sorry about your mum. Hopefully she comes through it ok.

just remember to make sure you stuff rags around the timing chain to prevent anything getting dropped down the hole. That would ruin your day.... give the valves a light tap with a plastic mallet after getting the keepers back in, just to make sure all is seated. A small magnet on a collapsible stick helps a lot when getting the keepers out. Lastly the biggest issue I had was keeping the valves from compressing when using the spring compressor. I did not have much luck with compressed air holding them closed, IIRC I used some nylon rope, or maybe it was some plastic tubing, I don't recall, maybe both were tried. again a slight rap with the plastic mallet before applying the spring compressor may help to "break" the hold the keepers have before applying the compressor. I think I may have had the piston a couple degrees before TDC, then after getting the nylon rope in good and tight, use a 27mm socket to turn the crank just enough to really jam the piston to TDC, compressing the rope enough to keep the valve from decending. It sounds complicated but its not really hard when you get into it.