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He did tell me if I want new shafts he will make them out of stainless steel. But it was me that said no. I would like to see what the carbs do with just the new bearings. If I have a problem I will have him make shafts. He is not charging me a thing for doing this.

Now I've started feeling better I worked on cleaning up the 5 speed Bleed hole in front cover? There was much fluid in the shifter cavity - I think I'll have to remove it & see what's up. The end oil seal (32858-U6702) is NLA - I could only get the shaft Oring. After degreasing, I started cleaning up the casting lines - a bunch of them were pretty sharp - I'm prone to accidents, so don't want to risk slicing myself when handling the trans for install

The Strips gained a more rearward angle over the following years. 70/71 the strips were entirely on the front fender. On the 73 Baja Z the strips were swept rearward putting them partly on the door. When Mr. Brock built a 240Z for himself in the 2000’s - the strips were swept even farther rearward.

Charles, I just pulled out my hardcopy of the parts fische that I bought in 1999. There is no reference to either of these P/N's for the '69-73 cars. For manual transmissions thru 12/70 it was E4600 and E4601; thru 08/71 it was E8300; thru 12/71 it was E8800; thru 06/72 it was E8802; thru 09/72 it was N3300; for the remaining '73's it was N3325 for "A" (?) and N3326 for "B" (?).. Similar changes for cars with the auto transmission. Jim

@Yarb, I think Peter Brock will tell you width and angle if you license it as a replica.

Could be a new U-joint that's not very good? Maybe take them off and check them. The wear material on the brake shoe may be loose, I had that happen to me once.

Original cracked dash was probably replaced with a later one. Back when dashes were readily available.

Hardened and polished throttle shafts paired with bearings would be best. Those bearings are designed to run against a pretty high quality surface finish. For example, the versions offered by McMaster recommend a surface finish of Ra = 8 microinches Where... That said... Even without hardening, new stainless shafts with a good polished finish will be worlds better than worn soft brass.

I saw atleast one of those today. I will look tomorrow and check car parts manual. I was hoping the same thing based on the 140psi gauge. Although the cigarette lighter location makes me wonder. PS my daughter gets married next weekend in Ohio. I hope to have time to come visit shortly after that

You showed the axle flange but not the backing plate. Check the backing plate for rub marks. Pretty common to get a slight bend in it. A hammer will fix it.

Best bet is to remove the other drum and compare left to right. If you have to remove the shoes for any reason you have something to compare to. Back in the day they used to say on drum brakes “Do one side at a time”.

So as @Captain Obvious says, when I took apart thee set of worn carbs that I’m modifying (eventually!!) I found that worn “collar” was 9.5mm and the wear on the bush was about 0.4mm. The wear on both ends was 180° with 90° being the most worn but interestingly the wear was 90° offset rotational from one end to the other! The chap in Birmingham (UK) is remaking new shafts. I can only assume Ztherapy do the same. Butterflies don’t really wear appreciably. But I’m happy to be corrected. I’m potentially going to get a buddy to CNC some new stainless steel shafts for me, but they will be “modified for flow versions”, not stock. Happy to measure / share stock dimensions if any good to anyone wishing to CAD them and make some..

Now I am wondering if there is a template out there. I just want to ghost darker stripes below the clear coat.