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Congratulations on the retirement, hopefully I'm only a few years behind you. There is a list of things you should do to wake up your baby from its long rest, someone will be along shortly with a link no doubt. Once you start driving it I don't think you will want to sell it, there is no other car that I can think of in the $20-30,000 dollar category that is as much fun to drive than these Z's Good on you for keeping it.

Dust it off, get it running, evaluate how much you enjoy owning and driving a 53 year old Datsun, and then decide if it's worth tossing more money at it to revitalize it. Consider the $20-30K you mentioned putting into it as an investment in driving/owning pleasure rather than future financial return.

having a bit of an issue getting a knock sensor that will work with a 300zx turbo 1986 ecu and an L28et block. found a sensor from nissan but when I looked at the scope with it installed on the running engine I was getting all kinds of voltages that I would assume be problematic. My guess is the flat response vs resonate is the issue. Pretty sure the doughnut type I am using is a flat response type. the rc value was selected since the ecu seems to want a specific value to not set a code, there is a bias voltage that is dropped by this resistance. The r1 was selected as I assumed the lower value would pass more signal. The stock sensor in a L28et has a resistance of about 750 ohms, which sets the error code. Left disconnected (infinite) also sets the code. I used the nissan senor that was about 500k and no code. will try the 330k and see, if not will adj up to the 500k and reset the C2 that C2 56pf seems like a very small number for any kind of audio frequency, but that is what the calculator called for with the R2 value. so here is my next try...

I think maybe you're referring to Vogtland (Germany). If so, they're still very much in existence, although it appears that they may no longer offer a kit that applies specifically to the 240-260-280 Z's (they do offer kits for the 350 and 370 Z's, as well as the Altima and Sentra). The Vogtland kit that was referenced in CZCC for the 240-260-280 Z was PN 552-204. The free heights were 12.5" F / 11.5" R and the spring rates were 152 lb/in F / 170 lb/in R. They were constant-rate springs and the F and R rates fell about mid-way within the F and R rate spreads of the Eibach progressives (133 - 183 F / 154 - 212 R). For reference, the Tokico single-rate springs for the Z (NLA?) had free heights of 11.25" F / 12.0" R and springs rates of 185 F/ 200 R. If you contact Vogtland, you may discover that they still have some of the Z kits in inventory. p.s. Looking at your photos, I'm wondering whether the plastic sheathing on the lower part of the Eibachs might be contributing to the breakage problem by acting as a moisture trap and promoting corrosion. Lower part breaks first due to surface rust etching, upper part then gets overloaded and fails next. If you get another replacement set from TireRack, you might consider injecting some anticorrosion spray underneath the sheathing.

Apologies. What you are looking at is the Eibach spring which includes a plastic sleeve they add to the lower 1/3rd. The first pic you added arrows to, is one spring broken into 3 parts. The uncoated section is sitting down behind the lower break (2) \ The other side spring only broke into 2 pieces. You can see the break poking through the plastic sleeve here

Still not understanding what you did, if you look at the picture that GredD posted the slot that the shaft of the dizzy fits into is offset, you can’t just rotate the dizzy 180 and put it back in. If you want to have the dizzy lined up as per the manual you need to set it at TDC on the compression stroke and drop the oil pump, Aline the marks and reinstall as per the manual. I think your sparking all of the cylinders on the exhaust stroke and will never fire that way.