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You park it way out but when you return there's almost always another car, usually a beater, parked next to you!!!

Here is my fuel rail. Man it has been a long time since I have revisited my favorite Z board. Miss you guys. Still have the Z and roadster. Z has been giving me grief, I need to write a whole new story on my self-inflicted wounds and catch up with you fine folks. SD

Progress on the EFI pump conversion this week, after a busy holiday season that saw more kitchen renovation than I cared to do. Decided to create a 1.25” deep flat recess to mount the Holley 12-168 pump and hanger and the new level sender. The opening is roughly 8 inches wide and 10 inches long. The tray I built is 8.1x10.2 and has 1.5” bent up edges. Much grinding and fitting and hammering to get close fits all around. More pics tomorrow after I finish welding and mounting stuff

The person bidding paid $250k USD for a car which has a market value around that amount. Maybe there wasn't another buyer willing to pay that? But it only takes 1 buyer in any market to sell something. You'll never know if you could have paid less, but it may just have passed in and gone to post auction negotiations, end of the day the car only sells if the seller is willing to let it go at that price. Do we know what the reserve was? Probably not. So it sold because it was at market value for that car. Enough said. Some people don't enjoy the foreplay of bidding back and forth (I don't particularly like it myself). Clearly this bidder bid what it took to secure the car. Well done to them I say.

I like these chrome ink pens that I got from Amazon. I got a 1mm and 4mm. The ink lasts well, I’ve had them for a couple of years and they keep working every time I go to use them.

IMHO, the business objective of an auction house is to get the highest price achievable for an artifact, not necessarily a "market" price. Certain marques and models sold at auction fare worse than private market pricing, others do much better. Everything about an auction is skewed in the seller's favor, not to mention the house itself. In this case, the only thing we know is that the car met reserve, so two people agreed that the car would change hands at a price. That said, we can all agree that the seller would have preferred a third interested party at the 250k+ level to help drive the price higher, but that bidder did not surface this week.

That's good info. That diagram is from the carpartsmanual.com under the Emissions Control Device section. I did get the FSM from this forum. It's so helpful. I just didnt realize the diagram you posted was the same part. $40 for the correct hose is perfectly reasonable to me! I'll do it Thanks yall!

Yahoo! Auctions does the same, just means no last minute sniper bids. Kind of a good thing.

Shipping the car to Japan would cost money. Import taxes and duties would be payable and getting the car inspected and road-registered would also cost money. No guarantee that the selling owner had any current connections in Japan to handle that for him (especially since he was using a dealer to sell the car on BaT on his behalf) and anybody doing anything for him on the Japan side would likely be charging him for it. That's why I said the car - being in the USA - is 'out of context'. People - including yourself - seem to be amazed that the car has been bid to 250k USD, but similar cars are changing hands for more in Japan. See above. I just don't think you are familiar with PS30 values. Over the last few weeks I was contacted by a dealer in the Far East (not Japan) who had been tasked with sourcing a PS30 for a collector client. He asked me my opinion on several PS30s that are currently on the market in Japan. He wanted an "investment grade" car. ALL of them were priced at equivalent to more than 250k USD at today's exchange rates. A couple of them nearer 400k.

Yeah, I don't really know either but the guy telling me this has helped me for a number of years and paints cars on the side. Along the same lines, it seems like letting primer coats shrink for an extended period of time would have the same effect to prevent urethane wave

I'll admit that I too find it a strange way to approach an auction, but second-guessing that bidder is not going to get us a firm answer as to why he did what he did. The plain fact is that the 250k USD bid is about right or slightly low for the car in its context, being away from its premium market (Japan) and needing a little work to bring it up to really nice condition, mainly underneath. I don't think he could have "saved 10s of thousands of dollars" by bidding in lower increments and in fact he may well have saved himself a fair chunk of money by discouraging other potential bidders who would otherwise have been pulled along by the more usual last-minute bidding war scenario.

Ok, I have a 71 240 that I'm converting EFI. This means using an EFI fuel pump. My usual MO here is to retro-fit an in-tank pump. Quiet, secure, self filtering, blah blah blah. Done it to my old 73 years ago and to a couple of my 510's since. Easy peasy as they say. Well the 510's are easy. Lots of room above the tank. Not so much on Z's. If you want to mount the pump in the top of the tank, there is no or very little room between the floor and tank top, and you have to cut a wee hole in your deck then come up with a way to cover it. Then put up with a lump back there for ever more. Not perfect. Well until Vintage Tanks just announced a new product. https://www.vintagetanksolutions.com/product/1970-1976-datsun-240z-260z-280z-poly-fuel-tank-for-in-tank-retrofit-fuel-modules This is the "right" way to do for sure. They provide you a recessed area to mount the pump and sender flange. and its still 16 US gal. Slick. The bad news of course is the cost. $800 USD plus shipping exchange, duty etc. Usually works out to double that in CAD by the time it gets to me. Ouch.... Customer project or not. SO..... This crazy Canuck wants to to make a recessed area on the top of the stock tank to accomplish the same thing. Just a little fabbin' and cuttin' and weldin' and BOOMin' and screamin' and scrapping Canuck body parts off the shop wall. Right? Though shall not weld a fuel tank, pretty basic knowledge. Surely there is a safe way.

I'd bet he's being sarcastic with the Hagerty value? but I don't even know what "aficionados" means. I've always thought that was someone that knows all about, say cars, but doesn't know a spark plug from an O2 sensor.

My grocery store puts sails on their buggies. I can park across the street and come out to find an empty one against my car.

Remember, OSHA safety white socks... LOLOL...

Somebody might have mentioned this above or in the auction comments, but it seems likely that the bidder knew what the reserve price was and decided that he wanted the car at that price. Or higher. So, kind of like eBay's "Buy it now" price. The reserve price was too high for everyone interested except one. One of the commenters mentioned a Ferrari auction. It seemed more normal. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1998-ferrari-550-maranello-9-2/#comments-anchor

This worked for mine.

As my glove box door is currently taken apart here is a reference picture showing the emblem with the pins and retaining clips intact, as it was originally assembled.

With all due respect, what does Hagerty know about the JDM cars? Until recently they didn't even know the Z432 existed. They also seem to be oblivious to the RHD market in general and the value variance(s). A few Z432's for sale in Japan. PS30-SB (432-R) $713,705 USD price tag. https://www.goo-net-exchange.com/usedcars/NISSAN/FAIRLADY_Z/700060083430181010001/ Price not listed on this Z432 w/ replica Works Style Kobe Seiko Rally Mags.. wish I could get these Advan Tyres in Australia! https://www.goo-net-exchange.com/usedcars/NISSAN/FAIRLADY_Z/700060083430240112001/ Early Safari Gold car. - No price listed also. https://www.goo-net-exchange.com/usedcars/NISSAN/FAIRLADY_Z/700020288230220616004/ However another Safari Gold Z432 is going to auction. (PS30-00232) https://bhauction.com/auction/tokyo-shin-kiba/lots/1971-nissan-fairlady-z432 ESTIMATE: ¥27,000,000 - ¥35,000,000 That's 182 - 236k in Freedom Dollars. In my experience auction houses usually slightly underquote to draw the punters in, but this car is missing the Kobe Seiko mag wheels and has the wrong seats for it's year/trim. The Kobe Seiko wheels are worth anywhere from 8-12k I'd say (if you can find them). Add on buyers fees etc.. and it's basically what the BAT car sold for. But if you think otherwise, maybe you can advise the Japanese Auction house they are way off the mark? 🙂

I wouldn't cap them off on concern of pressurizing the crankcase and causing oil leaks

LOL. OK.

Personal experience comment on ZAPS. In 1977 I was working as a mechanic at the DC Datsun franchise. Originally a Ford dealership built in the 50s or so. The east side of the shop had an almost wall of windows with tons of natural light. The west side was built into a hill so in the summer there was a modest amount of natural cooling. We were always busy. We got 1 ZAPS car which just sat on the showroom floor. Finally the GM got the bright idea to give it to the service manager to use as his demo which allowed it to be seen around town. Finally after about 4 weeks it sold. When we later got our single Black Pearl car it was on the showroom floor for no more than 2 weeks before it was snatched up. My new Service Manager

'Interesting' - if not unexpected - to see comments on the auction where people were calling the car a '240Z'. Clearly a legacy of what was presented to them as 'fact' over the last 53+ years. I think this car is a good choice for anyone who wanted a 432. It is MILES better than the so-called "1969" 432 which sold at Mecum's Monterey sale last year for more money. I have an inkling that the car in question may soon end up in a Singapore-based collection, if my suspicions are correct...

By the way, I think that if the car is a Federal model it won't have the sensor because it won't have the catalytic converter. If the car is a California model the label on the door jamb will say "CATALYST". If it's Federal it will say "NON-CATALYST". Not sure if they left the sub-harness in anyway if it doesn't have a converter.

I drank coffee from their Christmas gift cup this morning. Took a couple of years to get it properly seasoned.

I've never liked the way bat adds another minute when someone outbids the last guy. That's not the way auctions work in my opinion. So weird stuff I agree. Good on the winner, he let everyone know he wanted this car. No last minute games to play around with.

Well I took the first step. I bought a little household Bissell steamer and steamed the heck out of the tank. Put about an hours worth of steam through it. Tank is now fume free. Did it outside on a ~+5C sunny day here. Nice cloud of steam coming out all the ports. Rotated around which hole I stuffed the steam hose into during the hour and rotated the tank around. That steam was immensely smelly but now the tank is odorless and spotless (not that it had much in the way of spots to start with). I happily silver soldered up the stock fuel outlet tube that was rotating freely(and leaking) with nice MAP torch with no fear. And yes I even stuffed the open flame in the filler tube just to prove it was fume free. Granted I’m abandoning the stock feed and return fittings, should really just solder them shut. Guess I could use the return as a vent. We’ll see.

Here is how lucky I am regarding tank internal cleanliness. This one is spotless. Going to steam it tonight and see what I smell when done. Then I'll put it out in the yard with a spark plug dangling in there with a long wire and a coil and a battery....

I took it down to Techno strip and had it dipped.

I agree with Zedhead, I cut my tank in half and tig welded it back together with no problems. Once you cut it open there will be no issues with trapped fumes. I would be more concerned about any old lead lurking in the metal. Weld it in a open area or wear the proper respirator for lead fumes.

Mig, I did the welding, lots of tiny spot welds until I plugged them all up then coated inside and out with POR15 gas tank kit.

Great advice. Thank you! I did find a video where they used steam. Heat accelerates the evap and water does as you mentioned above. Maybe this is what “boiling the tank” is meant as in a rad shop. It will be a bit before I get to this, but will attempt to remember to post pictures when I do it.

The gasoline does not soak in to the metal. If you fill the tank with water once and empty it it will be purged of all flammable material. Gasoline is partially soluble in water, so any crevices, cracks, or rusty spots will be extracted of their tiny amount residual liquid gasoline. Dry ice would work well too, after all of the liquid gasoline is removed. If there is liquid left in the tank the CO2 will push out the vapors but the liquid will revaporize once the CO2 is gone. One reason that CO2 works well also is becuase it displaces the oxygen. No oxygen, no flame. But CO2 is also dangerous for that reason. Closed spaces and all that, plus the possibility of freeze-burns. Water is cheap, safe, and easy. The hardest part is getting the insides dried out afterward. I'd just use water. CO2 is great for underground tanks because they're big and you'd have to pump out the water if you used it. But a Z tank can be tossed around pretty easy. Why is my spell-check not working anymore... p.s. I've taken some classes where these types of subjects were studied.

I have taken past fuel tanks in for cleaning and repair and they "boil" the tank first, whatever that means. Well in my area, there is only one shop that does this anymore and the cost is really silly. So let the crazy ideas flow. How would you do it? Fill it with water while you're welding? Maybe. heavy, awkward..... Air it out with hot air in one end and out the other for 3 weeks on a hair dryer? Just light off the fumes and get it over with? Buy a gallon or 2 or 3 of methyl hydrate or Lacquer Thinner and rinse it out? Got lots of inert gas in bottles for welding so fill it with Argon? Cutting into it going to make sparks too.... Been sitting outside "Airing" out for 6 weeks already. Can barely smell anything.... Any other bright ideas?