Leaderboard

II took the repo mirror apart. The glass is held in place with 4 pieces of adhesive tape. The steel housing isn't crimped around the edges, so a gentle persuasive prying with a utility blade angled enough to slowly lift the glass out worked. Not shown is a large rubber piece on the inside of the housing the adhesive sticks to. Next I'll try to modiify/fabricate something to hopefully turn this thing into a functional 96302 mirror.

Have you checked the wear patterns on the rocker arm pads? People have had the wrong lash pads installed and the cam lobe rode off the end of the rocker arm. Found a few old threads.

Oh great now I have to check all of mine. I thought the pockets were the change, but shape / length is another one. Interesting red and white are 1 month off the rest.

Haha!! No, not yet. But that doesn't necessarily keep me from doing something stupid, would it?

McMaster-Carr has high-temp closed cell adhesive foam in a variety of sizes, so I’m sure I can find something. I will run a strip across the top and bottom because it’s clapping against the radiator toward the center where it’s most flexible. Right now the plan is to adhere it to the shroud and not the radiator. Should be an easy fix.

Yep, I've done that before.

A belt sander with a course belt would work to reshape a donor glass

I balanced the carbs on saturday at 2 and 3k rpms with a unisyn. This was checked already

Eastern Beaver Here: https://www.hi-1000ec.com/product/1139 I have used both places.

I was just following @Zed Head's reasoning to a possible logical conclusion.

Is this doing anything?

Let me get home after work and i will measure and post pics.

Unfortunately, Chester and Herod went out of business several years ago. So, they are no longer an option. I have a scanner somewhere. Will have to see if I can get that to work.

Well your lash pad might not be sitting deeper. If you went to thicker lash pads the wear surface would be taller compared to the bottom surface. So even if it sits on the valve the same way it would appear that its not sitting as deep. Did that make sense?

It is my understanding that Chester and Herod make the most accurate carpet kits. I can't speak to cut pile or not but the backside of the carpet looks correct. On the template, do you have a way to scan documents. If you do, you could scan it in several passes. It should print pretty close to 1:1

“…he never drives it. He just rubs it with a diaper.” After several days of painting, sanding, and polishing, the radiator and fan are in. The fan shroud is the fiberglass one from MSA, the fan is a seven-blade OEM, and the clutch is the original that came with the car (after much polishing and some matte high-temp clear coat). The fan shroud comes untrimmed, so there were a few days of cleaning up the fit. The paint is rattle can engine paint, just with several sanded coats and some heavy layers of clear sanded to 5000 then polished out. It’s held on with SS cap heads, but I’ve insulated it with rubber spacers on both sides of the fiberglass to prevent delaminating or cracking. The radiator is the 3-core 110 copper/brass radiator from @csf_radiators. Zero adjustments were needed. It just dropped right in. I think this really went a long way toward making this ZX engine look like it’s supposed to be in this car. I’m pretty happy with this arrangement. The only thing I’m concerned about is that the fan shroud flexes and will probably rattle against the radiator. I’m considering putting some weatherstripping foam around the perimeter of the shroud if I can find some with a high enough temperature rating.

Thanks SteveJ, but my thought almost had a head pulled. Keeping things simple until they need to get complex is the way to go. Well done. I'd guess that at 300 miles the valve guides are as tight as they'll ever be. Sticking valves seems to be a not uncommon L series engine problem. Might happen again.

The steering wheel is later and the console as you mentioned. The post says he has some more duplicate extra parts. Not sure what parts.

I have two (2) different style/size sunvisors in my spare parts collection: The upper style matches the one in my 1970 240Z. Can anyone identify the year and model of the lower style? Thanks, Keith

Good question, It too much for me, plus I don't have room ......😉 It is really impossible to say without going there and looking at what is there, or not there. On the surface in this economy, I think it is a little high too. I see a lot of later year pieces in the car. The seller says he has other parts. There are a lot of unseen parts that go with it. I really don't think the "Now" seller knows as much about these cars as the brother / mother / dad?. It has been collecting dust for 23 years.

Bummer, I just received the 96302 RH mirror from eBay, and it looks like it doesn't adjust inward as much as the new 96301 mirror I bought from Nissan last year! Actually, if I were to mount the Nissan mirror on the right side, it can be adjusted a bit more more inward than the repo. I may take the repo apart and figure out a modification to "adjust" it.

Another early 1970 Vin 01115 up for sale near Portland OR. $8K https://corvallis.craigslist.org/cto/d/albany-1970-datsun-240z-series-jan-70/7682266894.html There are more pic's and Info in the ad.

Mystery solved @Zed Head @SteveJ thank you both. You got it, Steve. Pulled the valve cover again and took a look. The rocker had jumped off the lash pad to rest on top of it. Not sure how I missed this obvious problem. Anyways, popped it back in place, cleaned the spark plugs, and it now runs like a top. It is cammed and I checked the valve lash and it actually looked perfect for the stage one Comp Cam. Not sure how it popped off then? Must have happened on start-up yesterday, somehow. Any ideas on why this may occur? I will see if that ticking noise is gone for good once it's cold. I haven't heard it since during this process. It is possible that maybe the rocker had been working its way off for a while, and reached its final straw. Still no conclusions for the oil on plug. Could be that the rocker wash pushing valve at an angle. No smoke out tailpipe again. People be wary of going straight to EFI for diagnosis, the loss of compression was throwing off the vacuum and AFM vane enough to cause woes in that system.