Leaderboard

Yes, nascent factory AirCon-related mounts and fixings. RHD heater/blower layout is handed differently than LHD layout. In RHD layout the main heater box has the fan duct on opposite side to LHD layout, so you cannot use RHD version on LHD car and vice-versa. Japanese market got option of factory air conditioning from 1969, so the non-AirCon RHD systems have prep for mounting the extra AirCon-related components. LHD-specific components appear to have some of the same prep. Here is an illustration of the RHD factory AirCon from the 1969 'Z1' Nissan 'Servce Shuho' booklet:

So I was this many years old when I learned this. I did the other five injectors today, and not only was there no damage at all to the barbs, but there was no swearing required! Well... I may have said "Dammn that was easy!!", but that was it! I made a shallow cut to expose the polyester reinforcement lattice. Doesn't have to be neat: Then I stuck the hot soldering iron all up in there and melted through the polyester weave and the rest of the tubing. After maybe fifteen seconds of wreching around in there, I was able to pull the tube off: After all these years and all that swearing!! Thanks again Zed Head for bringing it up!!

Glad I could indirectly help! Occam's Razor!

Put the struts, torsion rods & swaybar/links back on today. That was fun. The poly kit doesn't come with the front sway bar bushings (WTF?), so I put the old ones back, and put rubber instead of poly for the links. I've ordered the poly for the 18mm sway bar pivot. The torsion rods I have heard that the poly can damage the rods, since it cannot flex & pivot through the suspension travel arc. So, I put new rubber ones in. Hopefully get the brakes on in the AM.

How about that!!! Finally a contribution to the forum that has not been mentioned. @Captain Obvioushad a great deal to do with digging me out of that rabbit hole. Glad you got her fixed!!!

87mj, This deal worked out (shout out to Travel'n Man) I may still be interested for a second set. Where in IN are you? Many thanks

Have you thought about the internals? I built a flow tester (wide open only) using a spare fuel rail and wiring the injectors in series. Fill a bunch of Coke bottles and compare. I've posted pictures occasionally. The ones that came on my car were way unbalanced but I think that they were aftermarket. I don't know what you're working on but the thought came to mind. Since they're out.

From the factory wiring diagram: If you don't have a copy of the wiring diagram, download it from this site. You can find the Download section after you click on Resources at the top of the page.

Here's a possible approach: if the relay appears to be the only PO mod, consider using your FSM wiring diagram to put everything back to OE state. Then proceed with debugging your wiring from a known baseline. Otherwise you are chasing bugs from an unknown starting position and having to compensate for his mod(s)..

Found this - https://injector-rehab.com/product/ferrule/ Answer to question not asked - I had a vague memory and found its source. It's in the FSM Engine Fuel chapter. One of those old wood-burning tools would work too, I'd guess.

I'd see if the noise is from the brake system alone or if it has something to do with the suspension being loaded. In other words, does it make the same noise if you press the brake and lift your foot, stopped, over and over again? Or does it only make the noise when you've rolled to a stop with the brakes on. Probably the second. Which implies that something in the rear has a load on it, that is released when you let the brakes off. First thought is the top of the strut in the tower. Or a sway bar, or a control arm bushing. That's three thoughts, but they're in order. I'd have a friend watch the rear wheels while you put the car in reverse and forward and move back and forth. Hit the brake a few times. Something will show.