Leaderboard

So I used a red Sharpie and marked the inside of the AFM where the interference was occurring. This is my target for bashing. Here's my target to push the case back out a little bit: And here's my drift tool. I rounded the end to try to minimize digging in and gouging the aluminum: In position and ready for an adjustment whack: And the clearance after a couple percussive maintenance adjustments It'still pushed in a little, but it clears the AFM vane: So now the AFM moves smooth for the entire sweep. Next, I'm going to work on how to put the side cover back into place. The plan is to drill and tap at least one of the rivet locations along the top side. The bottom already has two screws, so I figure if I add a third along the top and silicone it into place, it should be good enough. Certainly better than the broken paperweight I started with.

I made a start on redoing the fuel lines. I used sleeved 10mm nitrile line with quick-connect fittings. The ends are clamped to the hard lines, and are not intended to be removed moving forward. The quick connect fittings allow you to disconnect the rail from the feed & return. Did the return first. Rerouted behind the filter to get it away from the motor. Support bracket previously attached to the filter clamp is now secured it at the inner fender QC fittings for the (Volvo application, Mahle KL 196) filter needed a longer M5 bolt while I was there I added a branch to allow me to add the fuel pressure gauge (M10x1 w/QC, 1/8" NPT) Used a left over silicone elbow from my C30 turbo upgrade, perfect fit for the torn filter-AFM elbow

Sometimes it smokes and some times it doesn't. The water and anti freeze looks fine The tach needle moves up and down as the engine speeds and slows down rhythmically. The tach does not seems high. I replaced the AFM yesterday and checked the plug that might have 10 miles on them. Very sooty black and dripping with fuel. I replaced them and checked the spark as Yarb suggested and would sort of run for 2 to 3 seconds. The spark looks great and the plugs are dripping with fuel. Yarb is sending me a ignition module to try next. Thanks Curt

Played with the float levels tonight. Removing the lid is stupid easy when you rotate it properly as @siteunseen described. Instead of going by just measuring the float, I checked it against the fuel level in the nozzle when 2.5 turns down. From my reading the fuel level should be 1/16 below the nozzle when they are 2.5 turns down. Thats where I tried to get it.

Nissan didn't mention the hydraulic pivot until the 1983 FSM. It only has one nut.

No, I had Two unmolested 280zx engines, one has p90a and the other has p90 and the only difference I can see is the 'a'. I don't think any UK cars had the hydraulic lifters, but plenty of p90a heads.