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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/26/2022 in Posts

  1. I took the remains of one off recently, and I'm sure it was between the ring and the neck.
  2. 3 points
    White ChriZmas here in Oregon for all Z big and small. Enjoy the season!
  3. So I did go ahead and pop this one. I used a towel just in case it wanted to go into multiple pieces. It broke pretty clean I will try to glue it up later. I didn't feel like it today. Worked on the LSD brace today Got it in I also hung the ST sway bars I've had for 5 years or so I had to do some slight clearancing where it met the LSD brace. The inner fenders had foam on them as I recall. Do they have it on both edges or just one edge?
  4. I was just starting the work on the 240Z master and slave cylinders when I heard a truck pull up in the driveway. I went out to investigate and found out it was a delivery from MSA.
  5. Another job that I utilize the dead blow is valve adjustments. I probably should make a video now because folks will be wondering . Lol
  6. You should also put some gas resistant caulk on both sides of the rubber flap. I didn't the first time I installed mine and I gas gas leaking out after a fill up. Put in a thin layer of caulk and no more leaks for 20+ years!
  7. It's easy to figure out. Actually when @240260280 showed me how to do a valve adjustment, there were some lock nuts so tight, both of us were pulling on the wrench to break them loose. I think @Carl Beck has posted in the past about using a brass hammer to help the wrench to encourage the lock nuts to turn.
  8. I did, After rebuilding every component on my suspension I still question myself whether everything was tightened/ torqued properly. I understand why they used paint during the build operation. Great video @SteveJ
  9. Hi Kats, It took me a while to dig this out again. But got some photos today. The horn button is interesting, since it screws into the outer ring. But I can't for the life of me see how to attach the button to the wheel. No holes line up and I can't see how it would attach to the wheel itself. Unless it become more clear once a hub is with it how to attach all 3? But I'm guessing I have a different reproduction wheel/horn to the RS Mach version above? Keen to hear you opinion.
  10. It's simple. I have the ramps, and I trust them more than the old cinder blocks I have. I also REALLY appreciate the increased room I have under the car with the ramps. I'm not exactly svelte. I keep looking at the dead blow hammers at Harbor Freight. It's about time I get one. It's not like it would break my budget.
  11. Hi, I looked at magazines in my room and I couldn’t find any clear pictures of the diff oil cooler installed on other Works cars. There is a picture of 1973 Safari Winner car’s fuel filters and pumps, and hand written diagram! By the way, I didn’t know the 1973 Safari Winner has extended seat brackets like a Fairlady Z series even that car is LHD. Is it unusual isn’t it? Note the steel protector underneath of the diff, the picture is 1971 Safari Winner. It has straight floors, unbelievable for the car won the toughest rally at that time. Kats
  12. The raw wood was first processed into wood fibre (so, the grain was preserved) which could then be impregnated with the bonding agent and laid into the two halves of the former in continuous rings. There's a surprising amount of push-back on all this. It's a known and understood process, but the whole "they are plastic!" thing is ingrained and deep rooted in a particular branch of the community...
  13. Somebody posted this stuff a day or so ago. It's close to what my dentist uses on my teeth. Amazing how it works at the dentist and now that I can jb weld my teeth myself no more white coat anxiety and a lot less money.
  14. 1 point
    Best present ever! My neighbors, young money makers with 2 young babies that i took under my wing, helping in their yard and feeding their animals just dropped of my present. I'm speechless... There really are Christmas miracles.
  15. Yeah! This car is Glenn’s beautiful very early Fairlady 240Z. I believe his car is HS30-100XX , it means very early L24 model for Japanese people (October 1971 Nissan released Fairlady 240Z series in Japan). The blue 115 began to serve at the debut of Fairlady 240Z series in Japan. Before that no blue was available for the Fairlady Z series I mean Japanese market. Looking at export market, Nissan also refreshed color lineup at that time, 903 blue was replaced by 115 blue, 905 red was replaced by 110 red etc. I am feeling his blue 115 looked similar to 905 because of aging. Here is a good example, this Z432 has 115 blue sold to the US some years ago and looked just like Glenn’s blue 115. PS30-00524 first registration was made June 1972. Kats
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