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But there is an F on the temperature gauge.

Update, ran it again, this time MUCH less smoke, same as before turbo. Impeller starting to spool easier, so perhaps there is something to the "breaking in" of the carbon seal. It still will not spool at idle but will at about 1.5k (estimated based on sound). I will run it a few more times (have to limit runs due to noise in the hood, dont want to po neabours) NA then will see about attaching the charge pipe to see if I am generating any boost. Temps look good (180f with the box fan on the front helping, its mucho hot here in the garage). Oil pressure like what you would expect, low at idle but still slinging off cams, power up and raise quickly to about mid point on the gauge (which iirc is a 140psi, not the 90psi). I will get some videos of the setup tomorrow. Hope you guys enjoyed my Nick Saban like rant I posted up a while ago... College football will be cranking up again soon, yea! roll tide!! one more thing still negative for exhaust gas in rad, had to check of course.

Reading this thread because after getting my turn signals to work they’re once again not working. Hazards are good but no turn signals. Gonna check the fuse I guess. So as far as hand signals, I’ve been using them too. The last time I’ve was given the bird was in Philly. That’s SOP up there, sorry Bruce [emoji1787]. So I’m not worried about it. Where I live people never toss that out.

Here are links for parts/pieces/tools that may be useful for addressing issues brought up in this thread. Verifying the voltmeter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M9IKYVH Plug it into the cigarette lighter (provided it works). These things are handy to have. Verifying the oil pressure: Adapter that allows a mechanical gauge to be added: https://www.glowshiftdirect.com/1-8-bspt-male-to-1-8-27-npt-female-hex-thread-adapter/ Mechanical oil pressure gauge: https://www.amazon.com/Equus-5244-Mechanical-Pressure-Gauge/dp/B0747VR5WX Verifying the temperature: https://www.harborfreight.com/121-infrared-laser-thermometer-63985.html I haven't seen anything wrong with water temp. I'm not sure the fan clutch kicking in is a problem unless it keeps the engine too cool.

Agreed. Assuming a linear response in the gauge, I wouldn't worry unless the needle was clearly to the right of F and staying there. As for the oil pressure, I know I've linked the parts a couple of times now for putting an adapter and mechanical pressure gauge on the engine to allow both gauges to function.

I've ordered a bunch of stuff from Steve (240zrubberparts.com), and have been satisfied so far. He even went so far as to create a custom set of his engine tab rubber covers for me - his are sized for unpainted tabs, and my tabs were painted by the body shop so when I went to install his standard pieces they split along the sides. He replaced them with a set to accommodate for the additional paint thickness that worked out fine.

These pieces Jim?

Just realized it's a 280Z. You'll get much better responses if you put your car details in your sig. My earlier reply was for a 73 240Z. Your screen name has 240Z in it. Looks like it's the same system though. p.s. I don't pay attention to the titles after I open a thread.

The adj knob is pressed on to the metal shaft in your photo. This can be disassembled, but is very difficult. The 240 knob is different from the 280, but is still pressed on. R

Thanks Steve. Been too long that I’ve seen one in person, and the OP’s picture isn’t good enough for me to see it. Still, looks like the temps in his car are normal.

Several good excuses to come down to the Atlanta area in your Z: The Mitty - Vintage racing weekend at Road Atlanta on the last weekend in April https://hsrrace.com/themitty2022/ Fall Historics - More HSR vintage racing at Road Atlanta https://hsrrace.com/fallhistorics2022/ Z Nationals - I usually just go to the track day on Friday when the show is at Z1 Motorsports. With their expansion, they don't have space on their grounds for more cars. This year track day is at Atlanta Motorsports Park. https://www.znationals.com/

Please don't read this wrong. It is your car and you can do whatever you want to make yourself happy. IMO, that is a very nice, solid, unmolested example. Even with a "modified" driveline the car will not be very fast compared with a modern car. Why not go through the car and keep it all original? I have done the L28 with e31 head , turbos, and other variations in the past. Sure, it was fun, but I didnt really find them to be that much more fun than a stock 240. I just have an appreciation of the survivors, I guess because I am becoming one myself!

Coolant passages have been known to leak in to the intake system. Maybe you have a cracked head. Coolant in the combustion chamber makes things clean. Have you noticed any coolant usage? My engine never used a drop. It was boring. Speaking of boring, how about a bore scope? Take a look down the intake manifold passages and inside the cylinder. Can't remember if you ever did a smoke test or if you just decided that you had a better idea, in past conversation. A smoke test will show if you have any vacuum leaks, and if you remove the spark plugs and turn the engine by hand should show smoke flow through the intake ports, and, if you wait long enough, through the exhaust ports. And, on ports - maybe you have an EGR port opened in the intake manifold and a rotted EGR valve. Each cylinder has its own little EGR jet. The borescope should see that if you get a good one. They have side view now. Here's a video from a guy that seems to know a lot.

gotham22, If you want to send me a good part to use as a guide, I'll see if I can make a replacement? And no... I'm not going into the replacement headlight nubbin business unless someone presents me with a credible business case.