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Just thought I'd pop in to say I finally found an affordable alternative to my Zed! After test driving some BMW m3's and M2 Competitions, and considering a 911, I just didn't want to spend north of 50,000 dollars for a toy! Then I found this car advertised in Edmonton, and negotiated a good deal for the same money I got for the Datsun. A 2006 BMW Z4 M! I am loving the convertible driving experience, and it actually feels reminiscent of the Datsun, two seater, long, sexy hood loads of power from the beautiful sounding straight six! And, the wife now wants to go on road trips! It is admittedly much more comfortable for longer distances. The car seems to have been well cared for, 56,000 kms over 3 previous owners, it has a few scratches on the rear bumper, and the wheels have some curb rash and will be refurbished at the end of the driving season. No owners manual or service records though, I will track them down hopefully, car has been in Alberta all it's life. Fully vaccinated and heading to Jasper for a road trip this week!

I haven't read your whole thread because I just don't have the effort to scroll through 7 pages. But, just curious if you've already swapped out the cap and rotor for a genuine Nissan product? I've seen stuff like this happen with the cheap Chinese knock offs. I'd hate to see 7 pages of debugging information only to find out that your cap/rotor combo are poor quality or maybe even the wrong part? Just throwing ideas, again apologies if this has already been asked. I've done a lot of work on engines in my lifetime to know that cheap parts only cost you money (and time).

+1 on this. The more poly I ad to the car the more cabin noise I get. I'm toughing it out for now but at some point I'm going back to rubber.

Never mind. After one more search through the removed components, I found it.

Welcome to the club. We tend to look smarter after we get done wasting our time on dumb things. And thank you for providing your solution. You might be helping someone else in the future.

Problem Solved, I feel like an idiot. One of the tiny screws holding the face to the tach had come off and caused the face to skew enough to cause the pointer to bind. Can you see it? Tach works flawlessly once again! Moral of the story: LOOK FOR OBVIOUS $^!#!!

Who's going to ZCON? I'll be there! My 15 year old son Jake and I will be hitting the road with the 1970 Nissan Fairlady Z in the car hauler. We will arrive at ZCON on 17 August after a stopover at Mount Rushmore, South Dakota (2,086 miles). We will depart ZCON 22 August headed for Grand Canyon, Arizona, Truth or Consequences, New Mexico, and Dallas, Texas before returning home to Lake Shore, Maryland (5,315 miles total). Cheers, Kirk

Oh no I trusted you! I just wanted to inform the previous members of the attempt.

Activities: Front to back Brake Line replacement, Rear Handbrake cable replaced, Clutch Line replaced due to visible wear and tear, MC pressure retention valve, remove & replace speedometer cable. MC Pressure retention valves were seen in both MC orifices. The one servicing the disk brakes was removed. Clutch Line Replacement: No problem, Adequately bled it afterwards. Clutch functions well. Rear Handbrake Cable: One heck of a job. Because of dual exhaust, and drive shaft were in place, this is one *itch of task. No room to maneuver. However it got done. May still need additional adjustment but for now it stops the car from rolling. Also, the cable is longer on one side than the other. Didn't know that.. Issues, one of the tabs securing the line to its holder in the tunnel broke, had to make one. Will need to buy replacement ones but they are narrower than the brake holding tabs and not sure where to get these new. Remove/Replace Speedometer Cable: R&R Speedometer cable. You have to be a circus contortionist to work upside down under the dash....Got done. When tested it was a bit jumpy/ delayed, but it did work. Could be because of years of non-operation and that fault may be inside the gauge itself...The old cable was rusty and had broke in half. The plastic/rubber outer casing was damaged and missing in some spots. Front to Back line replacement: Well, I actually did "OBVIOUSLY" forget, BUT the line was only flared on one side (back), since i cut it longer than needed because I want to place it first and then see how and where i would cut it....hah hah, before I attached it to the car. So the fitting was fed on the hood side and I tied a rope behind it, then pulled on the rope while underneath the car and the fitting made its way all the way to the back...Pretty easily, actually. Cut back the old line to the tunnel area so it would not be left in the engine compartment and leaving the securing tabs there free for the new line.Then I isolated the line, by getting two long pieces of fuel hose 5/16 or 3/8 and cutting it long ways in a spiral cut that would wrap around the line the entire length of the under-body. Then I zip tied the hose every 6 inches around the line. Did not cut the line on the back side, just bent it out of the way. The next thing was to now secure the line/hose along its way and out of the way of any pinch points and/or moving parts. Then the final touch was to bend and secure the line along the underside. Looked good. Now that left me free to bend and secure the new line into the brackets in the engine compartment that had held the old line. Now came the time to put on the front fitting and bend the line accordingly to the MC. Then I knew where to cut it and flared (once again ensuring that the fitting was on the line and facing the right way. Then I flared it and could now connect it to the MC. Bled all four wheels, and tested brakes: The brakes do stop the car BUT take 3 times the distance. The brake pedal does go all the way down and is soft, (feels almost like power ABS Brakes) not that traditional had mid way resistance. Will have to analyze and address again. I guess another way to put it is to compare it to the steering on a 240z compared to the powered steering on a new car.. Known: The MC is a 15/16 which provides additional stopping power (~20%+) versus the stock 7/8 MC, and the Booster is a 7" double diaphragm which also provides additional stopping power (~27%). Together, the added stopping power should make the car brake and curl on a dime. It does not. Suspected: The Booster reaction disk is missing, and the booster push rod is not correctly adjusted for length. This would create a long brake push. It does not have an airy mushy push like when a brake system has when it has air in the system, HOWEVER I did not bench bleed the MC and the fluid receptacle was empty. Path forward: Remove the MC, Remove the Booster, check for existence of reaction disk (if not there, buy/make one - 6mm thick I believe), Adjust booster push rod correctly, reinstall booster/MC, bleed MC. May also re-bleed the 4-wheels. Assistance: Any and all would be appreciated in the form of diagnosis, suggestions, and information on perhaps where to get a reaction disc and what the soft brake causes could be.

After living and driving my all-poly 1"-lowered 280Z in NE Ohio, SE Michigan and now in the Phoenix area, I would tailor my mods to the roads I drive on. Ohio roads are bad, but well-kept compared to the horrid roads in Michigan. Arizona roads are coarse and can be bumpy, but there is one huge difference between the three states. Frost heaves and other freeze/thaw cycle vertical features are terrible on full poly Z's. I found myself never driving the Z because it always felt like the car was being destroyed by the bad roads. I took my Z to NE Ohio several times and their roads got the same exact weather conditions, but were nowhere near as bad and the car was fun again. Of course, there were always potholes and other vertical inputs, but they weren't constant like in Michigan. Fast forward to this year when I moved to AZ. I haven't driven my Z a lot yet, but it's a very different car here. The rough roads don't phase the Z here. Yes, there are bumps that shake and rattle the car, but it's very acceptable. EDIT: Sorry, I misread this and thought you were in Canada. I see that you live in Toronto and from what I recall, I'd say your roads are more similar to the Ohio roads than the Michigan roads. I'd strongly suggest not going full poly. At a minimum, I'd run half rubber on the TC rods. Use poly in front and rubber on the nut side of the body. I'd probably run all rubber on the TC's, but you will lose a bit of track performance. Keep the poly in the front LCA pivots and steering rack for precision. The rear didn't seem to be as sensitive as the front. I'd still do half rubber/half poly in the TC mounts. I agree on the front subframe mod for bumpsteer. I have not yet done it on my 280Z and it sucks. I modified it on my 260Z race car and it's great. Both are about 1" lower than stock in the suspension and both are full poly other than the half-rubber TC mount. The subframe mod is easy once you have the subframe out. It can be done in a few hours once apart with the right tools. You need to knock the doubler washers off, mark and drill the holes and then tack weld the doublers in place in the new locations. Of course you could get fancy and get an Apex Engineered subframe and have the ability to properly correct the bumpsteer.

Welcome and congrats!

My 15 year old son Jake and I will be hitting the road with the 1970 Nissan Fairlady Z in the car hauler. We will arrive at ZCON on 17 August after a stopover at Mount Rushmore, South Dakota (2,086 miles). We will depart ZCON 22 August headed for Grand Canyon, Arizona, Truth or Consequences, New Mexico, and Dallas, Texas b efore returning home to Lake Shore, Maryland (5,315 miles total).

Um, yeah. I said that a couple of times about the vent line. Find the electric fuel pump...https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/12-260z/

The suspension parts should be identical between the 2 cars so you shouldn't have a problem there, the poly bushings, although they may improve the handling will give the car a harsh ride, if you're tracking the car they will be an asset, if it is a street car you may regret your choice. There are a number of members here, myself included who have installed poly bushings only to turn around and replace them with fresh rubber bushings. Sand blasting then paint or powder will give you great results.

Without seeing a rear or side view, I bet he's running pretty wide and deep dish. Those fender flares are probably installed over cut body panels. Offset it probably not zero if he's running stock struts. Then again, if it's a race car I doubt he's running stock suspension under that car.

I'm not sure what your question is. Why couldn't it have a mechanical and electrical fuel pump?

Thanks all! Just got back from another drive, going to have to remember the sunscreen! Congrats Patcon, on your purchase! Post some pics! I do like the silver red combo, my son has an S200 in the same scheme, they both look great!

SteveJ, where exactly is the resistor in the footwell area? And the TIU? See pic. The car is running great, no problems there. Got the pic of the plug outa the socket, I am continuing to wrestle with it.

The 260Z tach is essentially the same as the 280Z tach, including the wiring. Don't forget to check the resistor in the circuit. It's over in the passenger footwell area.

Just to be clear, there is no such thing as"stock"door guards. They are an after market product put on by dealers and owners. If you like the look, and do not want to go through the work of welding the holes up and repaint, than just buy any aftermarket guards you like and replace them. Although I now see that your car is not a 240, but a 260-280 so I am not sure if the later models came with factory door guards.

VTO, a Classiczcar website sponsor, offers a nice version.

Im going to take that chance, I will follow up with my results. Based on the fact that Nissan used a licensed version of the Bosch system. Will follow up with results this week when new Bosch relay comes in the mail.