Leaderboard

This is hanging on my toolbox for a task I've been meaning to get to:

https://www.google.com/search?q=350z+seats+classiczcars.com+&client=ms-android-americamovil-us-revc&source=android-home&source=hp&ei=VJOuYLa8AonM_AbGmq5Y&oq=350z+seats+classiczcars.com+&gs_lcp=ChFtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1ocBADMgUIIRCgATIFCCEQoAEyBQghEKABMgUIIRCrAjIFCCEQqwI6AggpOgUIKRCrAjoECCkQCjoFCCkQoAE6BQgpEJMCOggIABDqAhCPAToCCAA6BQgAELEDOgUILhCxAzoICAAQsQMQgwE6CAguEMcBEK8BOggIABCxAxDJAzoFCAAQkgM6BQgAEMkDOgYIABAWEB46BwghEAoQoAFQghJYlGpgtXNoAXAAeACAAbIBiAHUEZIBBDMuMTWYAQCgAQGwAR4&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-hp

IMO, the fender wells look like the 112 lime green. The floor looks closer to 919.

I think for a US spec 280 the 5mph bumper shocks need to be removed, brackets sourced ( there are aftermarket adapters available) or fabricated, and the rear bumper adjusted so it doesn’t ride the quarter panel ( the 280 doesn’t have the relief for the bumper).

site, I think you got your heater hose memory backward. People get a hard time on the forums if they bypass the heater core, connecting the head outlet to the pump inlet. The best way is to block it completely, if you just need to get by until you can buy new hoses. If you use a bypass hose then hot coolant that has not gone through the radiator is passed right back in to the water pump. Lowers the effectiveness of the cooling system. dylancorrea those are the original hoses. They could split at any moment, spewing coolant everywhere and letting your engine overheat. Then you probably will need a new head gasket. It's pretty common for those old hoses to blow. 5/8" heater hose from any auto parts store will work.

Shame about your youthful days being in the past, a REAL shame! I completely understand. Some even end up with a very painful right arm for some unknown reason! [emoji848]

Looking at the evap tank picture I'd say #919. http://www.zhome.com/History/ZColorGallary/index.html

When you installed the exhaust don't forget to dril a hole in the lowest part of the resonator(s) from around 4 mm, to let the water out, it saves them from rusting from the inside! (put a little bit of paint in the hole(s) I did this with a lot of exhausts and they don't rust from the inside out! For MOT not a problem as long the hole is not more than 5-6 mm..

IIRC, the bulbs in the 240Z ground to the gauge housings. Make sure the contact surface between the gauge and socket are clean, and make sure the gauges are secured tightly to the dash with no corrosion. Finally make sure the dash is secured tightly to the body of the car also with no corrosion in the contact surface.

Dennis, I prefer not to offer any negative comments in the setting of a public forum. (Unfortunately, my experience has had it's ups and downs, due greatly to suppliers of products.) I only extended an offer to personally share recent experiences with you. However, if you prefer a sanitized summary of my experience I can document that here. Keith

Here's a rumor about when Nissan will start taking money/commitments... https://www.newnissanz.com/threads/nissan-z-order-books-open-november-15th.406/?fbclid=IwAR0k2V5ggZeZ5ihwHL3M0T13XX11mghp1Fhekem8wsLwgEds6q61eb1vVSQ

I installed Miata seats (in think maybe 1995) in my ‘75 Z. They have speakers in the headrests so I don’t have to hack any panels for speakers.

I've not done my 240 yet but here's what I've used in the past with good results. The orange handle thing is specifically for interior push fasteners. The other 2 are just small flat pry bars. Don't know about your spacer. Sorry. Good luck. The clothes pin is to put on your toungue so's not to scream with anger.