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Went to cruise night Wednesday. Probably my last for this year. They have a Halloween "Trunk or Treat", but it's turned into a zoo! Always fun to show up with the non-Detroit car. First time all year another Datsun showed up. This is a right hand drive JDM car with Fairlady badging.

Just saw this thread, thanks to Motorman7's recent post. My car was just restored by Motorman7 and we took it to ZCON in Branson (which has a Stock judging category) and also to JCCS last Saturday. It was no surprise that my '73, which barely missed 1st place at ZCON in the Stock category, did not get a sniff at JCCS. And the car Motorman7 restored just before mine, did not get anything at the new northern California Golden Week Kyusha Festival held May 4th in Richmond, CA. That car has also been to a couple of Concours events this summer, and found that the judges (from the SCCA SF Bay area region) do not have any experience with classic Japanese cars. I had Motorman7 restore my Z to stock, not because I was looking for trophies, but for a (Highly Successful!) attempt to recapture my youth. But, thanks to Motorman, I do want to show the world what a wonderful car the original Z was. and so I am taking it to both Japanese classic car shows and local Concours events. And having too much fun doing that. (just ask my wife...) The last Concours of the season in N. California is in Sacramento (Neillo Concours Serano at El Dorado Hills), and the only traditional Concours I can get to this year. I plan on having fun there too, and may bringing a little more visibility for classic Japanese car to that stuffy old crowd. I will report. 1973, two weeks after I bought it. Near Whidbey Island Naval Air Station, Washington Daily Driver 1973 to 1988. 1983, Irvine, CA: Loved by the whole family... 1990ish to 2007: Being Preserved for Restoration (yeah, that's what I'm calling t!) N. California 2007 to 2018: a better "preservation" location At ZCON, 2019: Motorman7's work being judged. 287 points! 2019 at JCCS, no awards, but LOTS of interest. Back home! Still loved by the whole family

You might want to check out this guy in the UK. I think I saw a picture of that part on his face book page.

happy happy joy joy, I unbolted the compressor completely from the mount (easy) the mount I removed 3 of the 4 bolts that go to the block the hardest one to get at I just unscrewed as much as I thought safe to still have some threads in. It would be a pita to get started if I had to take it out, its kinda hard to reach and is very close the compressor (you can only move the compressor about 1" even unbolted due to the lines still attached). With everything pulled up and away I was able to get a clean shot a the 2 10mm cover bolts that were covered by the mount. I loosened those as well as the long water pump 10mm (just wanted it to come out without breaking). So I think its down hill from here (famous last words). giving it a break now will resume in the morning. I took the rad to the shop (prater radiator in Orlando, been there forever, guy recognized the rad as a Nissan instantly). I asked them to look it over, rod it out or replace the core if it looks suspect. I would say I had about 20% blockage in the tubes that I could see right in the middle top. The car did not leak at all and was able to maintain temps of no more than about 185f but I just wanted peace of mind, besides I think the rad was right at its max limit, I have a 165 f t stat that it will hold to on all but the hottest days, then it just runs up to about mid or a little past mid, so the T stat is no longer controlling the temp, the rad is. Hoping the unblocking will allow the T stat to control temps even on hot days with AC on max (have some head room on the rad). I considered popping in Jeffs alum rad from the test stand to see how well it works, but I would rather stick with a brass/copper if I can. Something about cheap alum rads I just don't trust. I know there are some very good high end ones, but they don't seem setup for stock installs, AC/shrouds etc....

@240260280 Keep on Hoovering, its out there somewhere. I Googled some RHD Fairlady Z engine pics - the few that I found all had a rail with the pivoting first mounting tang and offset supply/return nozzles.

It's the metal insert that pushes the side seals out and creates the seal, without it it will leak. Getting the metal insert all the way in can sometimes be a pain but the handle of a screw driver is a good tool for the job.

I have stuck with the Cannon intake, so far, and have switched from the standard shepard's hook setup to the Lokar cable arrangement. The linkage is so much better, but I still battle a sticking idle issue. I have gone from the standard 3 terminal rod holder arrangement and downsized to a 2 terminal approach (see pics). I have made sure that each carb closes independently and smoothly, and have installed the stronger throttle plate return springs in each carb. I tried going to a 3/8" throttle rod (from standard 5/16"), but had sticking issues on the linkage rod end bearings, so went back to the smaller rod, but with a shorter length (ok, I hear the jokes coming ...). You can see the arrangement in the pics. Bottom line, still having idle sticking issues. Should I try to have the linkage to each carb attach on the same side, would that make any difference? Any other thoughts and suggestions? Love the Lokar cable solution, much better than the shepard's hook setup!!

No, the FPR controls fuel pressure. It is a spring-loaded valve that only opens when set pressure is reached, when the spring force is overcome. A weak fuel pump could result in low fuel pressure but that would not cause the problem that you are having. You might as well get the fuel pressure correct though while you try to figure out why the injectors are getting a signal to stay open like you're at full throttle. It might just be your throttle valve switch. But if it is it will show up when you do the tests in the FSM or the Guidebook. The TVS and the coolant temperature sensor can affect fuel, as can the AFM. And the CSV. You just have to sit down with your meter and start testing. You'll be done much quicker than you think and something will probably show up.

Sounds too good, right? We know better. Craigslist has turned to scam central by the vultures not the original sellers.

My first thought when I saw this was scam. My opinion hasn't changed yet...

I would. Get the rear cap half way down and slide the side seals in. That's the easiest way I know of thanks to @Diseazd Buy Nissans too. I've got the p/n in a file at home I could give you tomorrow. $13 for the rear main but I can't rember the side seal price.

This happened: This is all single stage. The exterior will be two stage.