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Clipsandfasteners.com. search for M5 SEMS M6 SEMS Etc....

The question depend on your age, Allow me to tell you to tell the story: Back in the early 90's when I built my car (71) IT HAD to have a cam, Had to!, at the time I worked right down the street from Camonics (NH CA) the owner, Ed Ninos (rip) talked me down into a "mild" grind of 262 duration. it was great!... Now lets fast forward ...that cam is a pita, it turned(?) the car to be a hooligans car, taking off from street lights is painful without gunning it,. there is nothing under 3000 rpm, at 4000 it explodes with power and pulls to 7k in a second flat. What can I say...I'm too old for this crap.

4 1/2 year necro post started it all. 4 1/2 months and 26 pages later...it continues. The internet.

rebuilt 15/16 brake master cylinder installed: -- new rear brake hoses -- new calipers -- new brake booster -- new brake master -- new clutch master -- new clutch slave -- new clutch hose -- new hose clips Janet! I need you to help bleed the clutch! Waiting on front brake hoses to finish the brake job. All new hydraulics will be a treat. Blue always had a leaking booster so power brakes for a change will be nice. - brembo brake rotors weathered the 10 years in the elements nicely; just surface rust - Sumitomo S-12 calipers has rusted body and seized pistons - clutch slave had rusted pin and a slight leak - clutch master had a slight leak - brake master had the top caps rusted - rear drum brakes were great

I hate to burst your bubble but the back straight at Road Atlanta isn't flat enough to land an aircraft full of marijuana. Nice video from a guy who wasn't 'there'. However...I was there and the stories are relatively true. When we took our GTU Porsche to Daytona in 1980, I got to be chums with the mechanics on this car. One of a pair imported from Columbia. They came in heavy and went home light.

Please calm down. I will test the car tomorrow now with the new rotor and cap

Again, go to the POR-15 website and read about the product. It's... different. And it is made to encapsulate rust and stop further oxidation when it's used as directed. Read up and decide if it's a product you need or want to use. We always convert oxidation if it's not just surface rust that can be sanded, wire wheeled, or ground away to clean metal. Then we may POR-15 the area if necessary. You don't want to expose bare metal anywhere you don't have to. Follow the advice above. If you expose a large area of bare metal, you'll probably need direct-to-metal primer over that area. Small exposed areas can be covered with the good 2K primer that you'll use over everything (even the direct-to-metal primer) - after you've sanded, filled (if necessary), blocked (if necessary), and CLEANED... Your paint supplier can answer your questions about these materials. You'll prime over everything you do before you paint. You may want to seal the primer (ya, they sell "sealer" - and some primers can also act as sealer when they're mixed slightly differently). You may think that the "final" paint that you apply is opaque (solidly covering whats underneath), but it's not... The color of your primer or sealer will have some effect on the paint you put over it. That's why most new car replacement panels come sealed in straight black - it's a way to help after market paint look as close as possible to factory.

And here is what is inside that bad boy in case you were interested.

and we promise we'll try our best not to tell you to go buy more new plugs.

This week I am getting stuck into the L28 engine for my Datsun 240z. That includes balancing the pistons and rods.

the reason its loud is that I replaced the fan clutch with a totally different flex fan assembly. As it speeds up it flattens out but at low rpm it pushes lots of air which helps the vapor lock situation. Its not terrible but it makes it unpleasant to hit 6k. As I go forward with schemes to reduce the vapor locking I'm hoping to use an electric fan.

Ouch... The 304 Gold Metallic on my 260Z is from Sherwin. We have a supplier a few blocks from the shop and they've never had a problem with the old Datsun codes. All the paint we've gotten has been very true to original colors. We've shot probably a dozen Z's with Sherwin base or single stage paint (we don't use Sherwin's clearcoat though - PPG DCU-2021 is our preference). So, you have a very lazy Sherwin Dealer - their codes are country-wide. We found the PPG lower end paints to be kinda sub-par. Their Deltron paints are phenomenal, but you'll pay a premium... The engine bay is the worst to clean and sand. Make sure you get everything super clean. Make sure the existing paint is well adhered if you're going to leave it on. I like to get to the original paint. Chips and cracks down to the metal leave small spots where rust can develop and spread under the paint. Paint doesn't stick to rust (oxide) and you don't want underlying paint to come loose under your fresh paint. Do your rust repairs and use POR-15 if necessary. (POR-15 is a weird product, read all the information on their website before you use it and follow all their directions carefully. I goes VERY far - a little covers a LOT - so, start off with a quart. Brush it on - it "self-levels" very well. You're going to throw away everything you use to apply it, so disposable applicators are best (we've tried using foam "brushes" but find inexpensive natural bristle brushes to be best) There's a lot of stuff in the engine bay and I suggest you take out everything you possibly can. It's difficult to shoot around the wiring, hard lines, brake parts, master cylnders, hood pull, speedo cable, choke cables, windshield washer lines, wiper motor wiring - you get the picture... We pull everything except the hard lines that go back to the rear of the car. Those, we loosen up as much as possible to get them away from the frame rail and wrap them with tin foil.

Your fan should not be loud. Is the fan clutch working properly?

Hi Kats, thanks for your response. I understand that you are desiring to maintain stock as much as possible for aesthetic value. Sometimes I don't pay enough attention to that. I should mention that I really enjoyed looking at those photos, your cars are simply beautiful and they have inspired me to do better on mine. Anyway, to answer your question yes, when I bought the car in '76 it was mostly ok, it had already had the 73 carbs replaced by 71's. On hot days it had the problems you described. I was only 26 then, a fresh electrical engineer and didn't do much mechanic work before so I didn't know what it was. Apparently, over time all the other car manufacturers checked for this condition and made redesign if needed long ago I know it happened a long time ago on some cars but I never experienced it on other cars before. The Z would buck and pitch like a horse that didn't want to go. So one time I popped open the hood and I could hear something bubbling. I put my hand on many hot things and then I discovered I could feel the fuel bubbling in the fuel pump. I began talking to people and I discovered that an electric fuel pump was added in the back but I also discovered that it never came on. So it must have never been checked. I decided to make the electric pump run all the time. I added a switch to the oil pressure gauge so that if I lost oil pressure the fuel pump would shut off. I did this in case I had a wreck and the key stayed on so that it would not continue pumping fuel. I did more testing and discovered that the electric pump was plenty strong so I just bypassed the mechanical and eventually totally removed it. That helped a lot but still there were problems on Texas hot days with AC on. So next I installed a flex fan and that improved it a lot. Still some problems happened. I feel that there is a fundamental flaw in the design with those SU type carbs hanging over the exhaust manifold. At the moment my engine is totally removed so I am going to try some shadetree mechanic solutions like sheet metal shields containing foam insulation like a sandwich and insulation around the carb bowls and that small fuel line at the bottom that goes to the jets. Finally, I have a rust bucket 81ZX and I could take those fans and mount them to blow air from the other side of the engine like what was done on the FI on the 81ZX. After that I'm going to try electric fans on the radiator/ac condenser. That flex fan steels HP and is very LOUD. I did not mention it but of course I have rebuilt the carbs and adjusted the float settings but that made no difference, they were ok. 40 years later I now have more time to tinker with it. My daily driver is a duramax diesel pickup that sadly is much faster than the Z.

Hey guys, just thought I would share this with you. Some may remember I started a build back in 2009 (wowsers, long time ago...) of a 1:12 scale Tamiya 240ZG model kit. In the years between then and now, many changes were made, ideas blossomed...some faded....Fact is, I now have 4 of these kits with another ordered last night. ? 3 x 240ZG and a Safari 240Z. (Safari kit is what I ordered last night. The new kit will be for an attempt at a reasonably accurate version/copy of a 432R. Will be a lot of scratch building required to get the motor correct. Anyways, this is a version of the 240ZG which I have just completed. The motor is far from factory original, but there is a build coming that will be stock. ? This motor was printed by a friend in 3D.

If you remove the EGR actuator at the end of the system, then all the rest of the stuff in between becomes teats on a boar. The ONLY thing the TVV and BPT does is modulate the vacuum to the EGR actuator. So if there isn't any EGR actuator, then there's no need to modulate the vacuum to it and both the TVV and BPT devices become useless. You don't have to remove them, but there's no reason not to. Just plug the vacuum source on the throttle body, and if you remove the TVV, you'll have to plug the coolant hole where it used to be. Or you could leave the TVV in place just to keep the coolant from running out, but don't connect any vacuum lines to it. Now, about the heating plate under the AAR... It also serves to heat the AAR itself, so it does serve a second function other than the EGR. But my PO had removed my heating plate, and I never really noticed any problems. Being in a cooler climate, you might find that your AAR will open up some and raise your idle even when you don't want it to do so, but where I am I did not have that problem.

They always get you on taxes and that I don't mind so much, it's FEDEX that I can't stand that's why I drove down to the border this time. All that stuff was about $690 USD, with Fedex taking it across the border and delivering it in 9 separate boxes I would have been looking at another $700.