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Did a Google for giggles. I'm tempted now. Need that shaded upper edge. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pkc-400046793/applications

Oh, he's gonna make it. He has to bring me my brake booster!

Great comments. Capt Obvious made me LOL. I will bring you that brake booster when I get permission from my wife to go. See, she hate cars and anything that take time away from her. Thanks for the link to the part...buying 2. Yeah I live in Coastal NC but work in Memphis. The car is in Memphis. Plan when I bought it off eBay about an hour south of Memphis was to getting it running and then drive it back to N.C. That plan had turned into a partial nightmare. I don’t get a lot of hands on time with the car and when I do and find a problem I have to order parts and wait another cycle to get to attempt to get it running. The car is in a garage at my crash pad and the owner isn’t thrilled about how long it’s taken to get running. He especially enjoyed the fuel leak when I removed the tank and stained his expoy floor. So I’m motivated to get this car road worthy to say the least. I appreciate all the help guys.

This is incredible. Summit want $79.99 for a Pilkington windshield!! Even more incredible, I just bought one, and the shipping costs are quoted (Fedex Ground) as $32.27! All the way up here to the great white north! I just can't wait to see what shows up! I've bought pilkington and "asian" windshields in the past and they were more like $400 and $100 respectively. Will let you-all know when it gits here.

FSM (197 version, as shown below) shows the correct orientation of the lower arm bushing quite clearly... As for locating the compression rod mount bracket correctly, why not try to make up a filler disc that you can temporarily glue into the bracket's big hole. Perhaps a piece of hardwood dowel, sanded down so that its OD is a snug fit inside the hole in the bracket. While you have the dowel chucked into a lathe or drill press, you would drill a centred hole (say, 1/16"). Once done, cut a 1/4" length off the dowel. Now you have a disc with a centred hole that you can glue into the bracket hole so that its front face is flush with the front face of the bracket. The drill hole should provide you with a pretty decent reference point for making your alignment measurements.

Peter Brock spoke recently on BRE’s Japanese Auto Race History at the Blackhawk Museum in Danville, CA

Thanks. A great source of info. Using his site it is an early two knob rally clock. The hum comes from the tuning fork in the oscillator box. Clock not working however. Another item to add to the list

It's an oscillator for the rally clock that is standard equipment on JDM Fairlady Z-L. Ron at Zclocks.com can repair your clock and oscillator if needed. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

Sweet!

So, about that thermal switch thingie... Yes, it's all related to the EGR system. When the engine is cold, it blocks the vacuum to the rest of the system (thereby disabling it), and once the engine warms up, it will allow the rest of the system to operate. So, it depends on how much you care about the EGR system, but I can give you one other piece of data to help make your decision... Here's a replacement thermal vacuum switch on rockauto for $4.15. It's a mfgr close out. Buy two. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3647541&cc=1209260

Sweet. Glad that worked out. So, I've been meaning to ask... Is CRS your initials, or an acronym for a mental condition?

think he is in TN, in FL there are NO vehicle inspections. grab some chicken wire and duct tape and you are good to go with pretty much any car repair. "the rules are different here" state motto. that being said, my setup is completely stock, I like keeping everything as oe as possible. I was driving around in a parking lot the other day, guy says "you got a price on it" my response is "taking it with me to the grave" him, when you gonna die!

Happy to say I now have 5 forward gears!!! Shifts well, no noise, whine or any vibration from the car. Noticed it accelerates a bit better due to the different ratios between the 4 and 5 speed. Also got up to 70-72mph @ ~2600rpm in 5th. To have the same speed out of the old trans I'd be at 3100-3200rpm. Another plus is that the leaking trans, diff, slave cylinder and hose are now gone. Looked like I was drill crude oil under the car. Thanks everyone for your help, feedback and tips throughout the process!

Please let me know if you decide to sell them. I'd likely take one too. I have the exact same battery. I'm using a block of wood.

Uno Maas. Somewhere in the parking lot, there's a pickup with no tires