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Officially now up for sale is my prized possession, my 1975 Datsun 280Z. This hurts me to write this ad but it's something I must do. I don't drive the car as much as I thought I would, and I am currently starting a new business so financially it makes sense. Before posting it up to Ebay, I figured I would list it here first since this forum has been a huge help with the build. I originally bought the car in August of 2013 and immediately began the restoration process. It was completely stripped down to the chassis, media blasted, rusted areas were removed, and replaced with new metal. The car was then sent to Emmel's Enamels in Denver where it received the full rotisserie treatment. Original Datsun color #904 base coat/clear coat was applied. Countless hours of wet sanding and polishing were done to create a beautiful gloss. All suspension, steering, and undercarriage components were blasted and powder coated semi-gloss black. Every nut, bolt, or hardware that was originally plated was sent out and stripped, and re-plated a beautiful yellow zinc. All rubber was either rejuvenated or replaced with new. Body: 240Z front valance, bumper, grille, and marker lights. 240Z rear bumper. New windshield. BRE rear spoiler. Paint protection film installed on full hood, fenders, and lower valance. Motor: Rebello Racing 3.0 liter stroker. L28 with N42 head. 89mm Cast Pistons. L24 rods with ARP bolts. Turbo oil pump. 63DI 109 Hot B Cam. Triple 45 DCOE Weber Carbs w/ K&N filters. Port and polished head. Port matched intake. 11:1 compression. Engine dyno'd at 301 hp/269 tq Wrinkle red powder coated valve cover. Datsun Spirit MSD plug wires. Datsun Spirit heat shield. MSD 6a Ignition. MSD booster 5 Speed transmission from 81' 280ZX Suspension: BC coilovers with adjustable height, dampening, and camber. Energy Suspension performance polyurethane bushings Wheels/Tires: 15X8 Rota RKR in Black magnesium painted black metallic. Dunlop Direzza 205/55R15 tires. Brakes: Silvermine stage 3 disc brakes. fully rebuilt rear brakes with all new drums and pads. Stainless steel brake lines. New brake booster and master cylinder. Interior: 240Z refurbished steering wheel. Refurbished dash (dash cover currently on). All new bulbs in dash. New carpet, seats, console, headliner and vinyl trim. Retrosound AM/FM/USB/bluetooth stereo with (4) Polk Audio 5.25 speakers. Misc. New battery, new alternator, new starter, new clutch master cylinder, Custom 3" stainless steel exhaust with Dynaflow muffler, Fuel lab regulator, new fuel pump, Skillard fuel tank straps, aluminum 3 core radiator, all new hoses and clamps. Also have original window sticker. I am sure there are a ton of things that I have forgot to mention but this car is in immaculate condition and is basically a brand new car. I have only put approximately 1800 miles on the new motor. This car is an absolute blast to drive and has no shortage of power. Cons: There are some minor flaws here and there, a couple small knicks in the paint. The chrome taillight bezels could probably be re-plated but aren't that bad. The clock and amp gauge are not working. Also missing a spare tire, but have jack and tools. This isn't a concourse restoration but definitely a 9.5 out of 10. Located near Denver, CO. Price is $25000. I am pretty firm on the price, I believe it is a very fair price for the amount of money and quality of work that has gone into this build. I will not accept lowball offers. If you are interested please reply to this thread or text/call me directly at 303-999-7109. Please don't hesitate to ask any questions. Also if there are any specific pictures you want just let me know. Thanks for looking! -Matt Please check out my build thread here for detailed pictures and complete write up. Thank you.

I drove to Chipley, FL Friday to get 96 pounds of green jumbo peanuts. 10 hours, 600 miles me and the dog. I don't think my dog had much fun though. The picture looks fake but I promise they are that fat. Only available in October, south Georgia and Alabama, north Florida. I had some at a wedding earlier and just had to have my own stash. Boiled half Saturday and the other half Sunday. Sea salt, Zatarain's spicy crab boil, 8 green jalepenos sliced lengthwise. Boiled 3 hours then let them soak 4 hours. Put them in a refrigerator overnight and bagged them up in gallon Ziplocs. I have a deep freezer with 45 bags in there. Maybe I'll still have some for Atlanta's ZCON next year? If you can believe it they make beer even better.

I have a bad starter and ordered a replacement from AutoZone. When it came in it appeared to be a little different than the ones I saw on the internet. Specifically, it had a cone nose and the bendix moves out on a shaft like most of the starters I've ever seen. The pictures I saw on the internet do not have the cone but are simply flat. I guess the bendix simply protrudes out and engages the ring gear when the starter is activated. I have not removed mine and AutoZone is holding the one I ordered until I find out if it will work. The starter at AutoZone has a pamphlet that says the starter may look different but is appropriate for the 280zx. In looking again on the internet I have found others that have the cone shape nose that are indicated for the 1980 280 zx. Anyone know for sure if a cone nosed starter will work?

Sending out props to Siteunseen for a "pay it forward". He provided a shifter lever we need for a Auto to Manual conversion that Joe Newsom is working on. Our goal is to manipulate it so a 5speed can be used with a series 1 center console. More to follow... Currently waiting for joe to test fit the shift lever to his transmission then return it before

here's what I go by for adjusting mine. Thanks @240260280

The length if the rod that comes out of the booster and contacts the cup at the rear of the master cylinder. This length is very important and many times when you change the brake booster it throws the adjustment off. It may be slightly push the master cylinder piston in which messes everything up. Sent from my SM-G930V using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I went a step further after removing the entire assembly. Each control cable has an E clip at the anchor/swivel point. These are easily removed with a jewelers screwdriver. Be careful they have a spring loaded effect when they release. Suggest disassembly with a large beach towel to avoid things bouncing away. Do one cable at a time so you don't confuse reassembly. I then straightened one end just enough to get the insulation to move over it without damage. Then smeared anti-seize on the metal cable. Slide the outer insulation back and forth to spread it. I also let a set sit in transmission fluid just to free them up, took about a week. My car has spent most of its life in moist climates but it is a common problem. Grease the achor/swivel point generously. I used a very small model paint brush. After the metal cables free up the anti-seize prevents future freeze and stiffness. It took most of the morning to complete but they work as they did back in 1970. For those that don't have a set of jewelers screw drivers you will see the need if you need to remove interior knobs. As SITEUNSEEN said be patient, everything releases just find the release point. Good luck.

Evap tank or gas tank? I assume you are talking about the gas tank, I will either use a stainless rod bent, or a spring, I haven't decided yet, tank should be done and back this week.

Seem to me I read somewhere that if the choke lever is left on or is stuck that fuel can leak past the nozzle and out into the carb. That could also cause the car to run rich. Maybe worth checking. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

If you really want an exhaust you want your car to sound like, take your car to an exhaust shop with a mandrel bending machine and a welder. They will ask you what you want it to sound like and how loud you want it and weld exactly what you want for about $350. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Got the exhaust and intake manifold installed. Threw on the air cleaner just for pics. Picked up the radiator from the repair shop and attached it, but not very happy with the radiator shop paint job. Will probably remove it and clean up some of the drips and solder remnants, then re-paint. Will have to get some of Jay's braided hose and some nice wire clamps next. Will also get the master cylinder and clutch master in shortly, then I think I will be ready for the fenders. Pics below.

@882993md A rich setting won't account for the fuel in the air filter. Another possibility is the float levels being set way too high allowing fuel to pool on top of the nozzles. I suggest this because you did start the engine and I'm assuming it ran OK. I don't think it would have run very well with stuck needles. How easy did it it start and how well did it run?

Let me know if you want to trade:) I am sure it will sell quickly.

Thanks Cliff. Since you are so far away, I'll have to share them with some of my other friends......

Funny you should mention boiling some jumbos Cliff. We are getting ready to boil some jumbos too. Millie will be watching.....not eating the procedure!

I was on a road trip with some friends. Before winter is here. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

IMHO the best oil to run is jd hydraulic fluid. I was pushing over 400whp thru a jatco and it was the only oil that wouldn't slip. Ever. In fact it lowered the stall from 3k to 2400 because it was so grabby. I bent the tangs on the input shaft but it didn't slip. A low power application would last forever assuming seals and such aren't leaking. I would run at least 1qrt/ltr of standard oil because it makes it easier to see the fill level. YMMV.

IMHO, there should be no issues at all switching to a full synthetic after years of regular petroleum oil. . Again, most of this was old wives tales from way back . When Synthetics first started appearing in the early to mid 70's, they did have some issues with seal leakage. Mainly because of lack of normal petroleum products that would cause the seals to swell. 40 years later and that is no longer a real issue. Synthetic formulations have changed and now include seal swellers. Even the seal technology has changed so it is more compatible with Synthetics. . If you are buying new seals ( O-rings whatever ) from the aftermarket or even Nissan, the materials are different. If you have 40 year old seals in the engine... or Transmission... well it might be an idea to pull it apart and freshen it up. Auto tannies can take a lot of abuse. But once they start eating them selves alive, it a very fast downward spiral of destruction. If you are really concerned about old brittle seals. Throw in 1 bottle of non-synthetic Tranny fluid to mix with the Synthetic. That should provide more than enough Seal swelling agents. Although as I mentioned, New synthetic formulations have had over 40 years to solve that problem. Personally, I've used full synthetics ( Amsoil, Red line, Motul, Shell Rotella T6, Mobile 1 ) in a variety of Vintage cars for over 35 years, and have never has any leakage issue or any other problems at all. That's with engines, manual transmissions, Auto Transmissions ( Amsoil ATF ) . Power Steering and Diffs. Have I left anything out? I used Amsoil products pretty much exclusively until the Mid 2000's when I started to use Rotella T6 on some of my Turbo cars. Amsoil was just getting a bit too pricey.

Both my 71 and 73 only had 1 speaker. I believe it was far bac left side.

My '75 280z had only 1 speaker on driver's side rear. I got Alpine 6x9 speaker. It's really good sound! https://www.walmart.com/ip/Alpine-6x9-Coaxial-3-Way-260W-Wide-Range-Car-Audio-Speakers-SPS-619-Pair/48455393?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=1235&adid=22222222227035941564&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=76741515514&wl4=pla-177944793154&wl5=9032178&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=112354589&wl11=online&wl12=48455393&wl13=&veh=sem You can purchase rear speaker panel from Z store. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic08j02 But I'm making my own one. For receiver, I got Alpine Bluetooth and USB only since I don't use CD anymore. https://alpine-usa.com/product/view/cde-143bt/

Thanks! Got the transmission cleaned up and installed. I have the transmission mount in and the forward end supported with a scissors jack. I should be able to drop the motor in here soon once I can scrape together a couple hours. I bought the Exedy (made in Japan) clutch kit which included the clutch, pressure plate, throw-out bearing and pilot bushing. Very reasonable from Rock Auto. Also added the before picture which was posted earlier. Also had some nice light for the rear end pics. I love how that came out.

Joe, From Vintage? I could use some of the bullet connectors like the ones in your pics. Maybe ten pairs male and female? If you buy a quantity of 25 or 100 of each male and female, I'd love to split them with you. I believe you (we) are looking for the 4mm variety: Male bullet connectors and sleeves: SB1 (18-16 AWG) Female bullet connectors and sleeves: SS1 (18-16 AWG)

Got some of the rear end done. Kind of strange to have everything so nice and then stock under carriage paint.

Hours and hours of time spent prepping/ tapping these for powder and paint. Still have a little overspray, but shouldn't be terrible to remove for u-joints and such.

Trying to decide on what to install next. Put the rear end back in? Can I put the driveline in after the rear end is in? I assume there is enough play on the yoke to accomplish that? Should I put anti seize on the fill and drain plugs on the diff?

Bc are welded. My buddy is professional welder and he did the tig welds for me.

Clock can be tested just by connecting to 12V and see if it keeps time. Voltmeter you can just hook directly up to a variable voltage source. Should read volts just like any other voltmeter. Fuel gauge can be tested using a different resistor values or a potentiometer. Here's a thread with some additional info: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/55746-fuel-gauge-accuracy-1975-280z/#comment-499020 As for temp gauge and oil pressure gauges, I haven't tested them, but I assume they operate just like the fuel gauge and should be able to be tested in the same manner. Maybe different sender resistance values, but other than that, I expect it to be the same concept. I have no experience with the ammeter, but if you have a variable voltage source with an adjustable current limit, you can crank the current limit way down and just start trying pins. If you keep the current low enough, you shouldn't hurt anything. Try configurations until you find one that works? And it could probably go without saying, but on all these tests, make sure you get the polarity correct.