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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/07/2017 in all areas

  1. Here is a couple of pics of the ball socket I just soldered on to a Lokar cable. I have two kinds of M8 ball sockets, one has a external spring, the other internal. Your choice. I might be tempted to use the external spring as it easier to get the ball on the pedal stud, then apply the spring. Either way, cut the base length down to minimize ball length. I left .375-ish I think. The apply solder to the bare clean wire end. I use standard electronic resin core solder. I've also used a silver bearing solder. The trick is two parts. First, used a solder flux paste. Second, use a soldering iron, not a flame. The flame creates too much oxidation and the solder will never "take". Still this step seems tough to get to work all the time. Lots of paste, hot iron, apply solder fast and plentiful and pray to an appropriate deity I suppose. Now put the ball socket in a vice and use a small flame torch to heat and fill the void with solder. Flame is fine here, the steel soaks this stuff up. Now get the tinned cable end, and flame melt the solder in the ball socket, stick the wire in to the bottom. Keep the heat on for a few seconds so the solder in the wire melts. Remove the heat and hold the wire steady and in the middle until it solidifies. Done! I have tested this with a vice grip on the ball socket and wire held in the vise and I cannot separate them except if I then pound on the vise grip with a alb hammer. The cable breaks before the cable is pulled out the solder. I have many many miles on mine and other Datsun's 'round here with this setup. About all that can go wrong is if the cable at either end rubs the centre inside lining and gets key seated. Make SURE the cable enters and exits in a straight line. Bend the top of the pedal to ensure alignment if necessary. Some silicon lube of your choice is like a good idea too.
  2. No, I'll put something together one of these days... :-)
  3. Next up, the Techno Toy Tuning order.
  4. 1 point
    Decades ago, I learned to drive on the family 1961 Chrysler. A cool feature of Chrysler cars in those days was the push button gear selector on the dash instead of a shift lever. The "Reverse" button was a two position switch. Push it in halfway and the back up lights would come on before the reverse gear engaged when the button was fully depressed. The very bright back up lights on the '61 Chrysler were mounted high above the tail lights on the huge Virgil Exner designed rear fins. When someone was riding my tail, I would push the reverse button halfway in and accelerate, the high mounted back up lights would light and the immediate reaction of the driver behind me was to hit his brakes. Problem solved. Dennis
  5. I know this is an old thread, but Pat, you deserve a BIG THANK YOU! After 46 years I had one of my heater hoses start leaking where it attached to the Y thing by the reducer hose on the engine side of the block, when I pulled the hose off it looked like it was disintegrating. The reducer and the other heater hose that connects to the block looked like they would probably fail in the not to distant future too. I also have original dealer installed A/C and thought I'd started an impossible task. Finding your approach of removing the control valve made the removal doable. After getting the 1st hose and transfer hose off my biggest issue was that the original factory installer faced the screw on the second heater hose clamp straight up (must have been a mean joke) so I ended up having to use wire cutters to get that clamp off. I'll be switching to regular worm gear clamps so I can use a nut driver with an extension on the new clamps. All new heater hoses, reducer and transfer hose are on the way. Next time this becomes an issue it will be some one else's problem.
  6. Cut open old filter, does not look bad, no big rust or particals in filter it deffinetly studders (loses power) before dying. But when I try to restart it right away, starter turns and acts like no spark. Sometimes it runs with the feeling of "missing" then regains power or dies
  7. 1 point
    Should have thought to check the plugs but I'll do it tomorrow. Been cleaning out the panel truck so I'll have something to drive. If the cops get behind me I won't be able to turn. No turn signals. Can't go on the freeway in the truck until I rebuild the front end. Steers like a boat over 50 mph. Runs good though.
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